Yep. From what I can remember that last time I looked at your engine, the alt was still an early one with an external regulator. The way I upgrade to the later internally regulated alts is to determine which wires int he 6 terminal plug go to which wires. You need to find the gen or alt light on the dash, and the wire that gets 12V when the key is turned on. These go to the T shaped plug in the internal reg alternators. I can't recal which is which, but I could look it up.

 

Top of the T = ignition key (that's easy to remember). Bottom of the T is alt or gen light.

You can change the 4 terminal plug in your wiring harness to a 2 terminal plug if you have any spares kicking around. Then you can find which wires do what in the 6 terminal plug over at the voltage reg box. I just looped them over to the key and gen/alt wires because I didn't feel like redoing my entire wiring harness. It's funny looking, but saved a ton of time. It's also reversable.

http://www.mazdarepu.com/Gallery/ind...ploads/alt.jpg
http://www.mazdarepu.com/Gallery/ind.../connector.jpg

 

I have a newer Alt. its for a 86/87 so it should have one built in right ?

(Gary Brooks)
From Camden, said it was fine the way it is, with the one wire. His is setup the same way. Im loseing power some where. I have disconected every power from the battery. such as the fog lights. the radio, Amps. The only things that is hooked to the power side of the BAT. are the ALT & the MT.

Is there any good electrical shops around here, That are fair in price?

 

Those alts will work with just the thick wire connected, which I discovered once when the T shaped plug wasn't in enough and fell out, but it needs to be reved before it will turn on. I noticed my headlights were dimmer than usual when I fired it up, but everything went up to normal voltage after I reved the engine. Of course the alt was not designed to work like this. If it was, Mazda would have been the cool kid on the block instead of GM with their 1 wire alts.

My advice is to get another alt if yours is dead or dying, and hook it up correctly.

Oh, one more thing. I recently helped a friend swap his alt and battery in his SC 1st gen. The alt killed his battery and got really hot when we installed a new battery. Alts aren't supposed to get hot when you hook them up! It was drawing like 10 amps from some internal short or something. A simple alt swap cured the problem. Hook an ameter inline to your alt and MT and see if there is a draw. Also feel the alt housing. My friend's got too hot to touch after about a minute hooked up.

 

Jeff,
Ok everything is hooked up right now, and my cars charging problem is fixed. The shop decided to decline on going any further with my car cause they said there is a major draw coming from somewhere. The Microtech is fine and I have disconnected everything extra on my car completly, but still the draw. They said to just disconnect the battery if it sits a while until we can troubleshoot where the draw is coming from, but will keep a charge.

So last night we went under the dash and took out the old alarm system. It was a mess on how it was wired. So how would we test to see if there is any draw still? The shop said pull out fuses one at a time, but what if we flat out just take something out. How would we test that there is a draw or not?

The fuel problem started to pulsate again and the pressure dropped again on my fuel regulator when I picked up the car, so we loosend the nut and tightened down the center and tapped on the body. Suddenly my pressure went back up and car ran fine home. So were figuring the fuel regulator is bad. So I think this issue may be figured out.

Thanks

 

To check for a draw. Discconnect the neg terminal from the battery, stick a digital multi meter between the battery neg post and the neg battery cable you removed. Turn the dmm to Mili amp DC or the like. Make sure the doors are closed and the key is off. Take the base line reading. Next remove the pos cable. Measure amps between the battery pos and neg post. That is your other base line. Put the pos cable back on. Subtract the second base line from the first base line. Is it less than .5 amps? Or more. If it is more than you might have a draw some where. I would leave the dmm between the negative post and neg cable. Pull one fuse at a time and check the dmm for any difference. Reinstalled fuse and repeat. That way you can isolate the draw down to a sub branch.

Its wierd for a car to suddenly get a draw without doing any work on it. What did you end up doing to fix the alternator. Because S-5 alternators are wired different, if you put on a 89-91 alt that is probably where your draw is coming from. If so let me know I can tell you how to fix it.
good Luck

 

All sounds good untill you get to the part where you check between the battery pos and neg with a mil amp gauge, and from then I know you have never then this befor. Now it's my turn, any OBDI car you will find about .025 amp draw, as of 96/OBDII you will find .025 to .05 amp draw, as of 2005 with all them ECMs, PCMs, TCMs, body control moduls and the list goes on, you are looking at .05 and maybe more, and if you do the math "amp/hr" you will find that that a car with a good battery will last about two weeks or more for a 2005 fully loaded high end car, DONT take that small amp gauge and go battery post to battery post, YOU WILL LET THE SMOKE OUT, use the neg post to ground or pos post to pos cable, and depending on what year you have use the above, by the way I do this for a liven full time so dont even think what you are thinking, wound up 7

 

Wow you put me in my place!. If you knew code blue cars its from 79 so that rules out OBD 1 and 2 right. Also i have taken my small dmm and went post to post and it still works fine. BTW what was i thinking.? I not trying to start a pissing match. I dont give out advice unless i have tried it on my own car first. Anyways that how i found my draw.

 

I didn't think you where trying to start any kind of war, sorry

 

I didn't think you where trying to start any kind of war, sorry, so if it's per OBDI the draw should be almost .001V Lot of times just the sweat on a battery can draw one down

 

Woundup yes you do know my car and basically what it has in it. Wanna fly up here and help me...lol...
The charging problem was fixed due to the alternator. I have a 86/87 alternator. They ran a wire from the alternator to the old voltage regulator harness for now. He did say that the draw is coming from the same wiring harness as the alternator.

I did order a new fuel regulator from Jegs. Seemed when I picked up my car my regulator didnt want to hold fuel pressure 30lbs only. It was pulsating, so the mechanic tightened the pressure gauge down and then brought it back up and tapped on the regulator itself a few times with a wrench, then suddenly it held pressure to 40lbs and everything was fine. I normally run 42lbs but the regulator should be able to adjust to 65lbs. We could not adjust it up or down. So were assuming either something was stuck in the regulator or the diaphargm is bad. Again hope were right and this was the fix needed for the fuel problem.

 

Fuel Problem....finally fixed.
Put a new regulator on the car and it instantly kept its pressure. We looked at the inside of the old regulator and it seemed to have glass like specs inside, and some crud. Thinking maybe its time to get the gas tank cleaned also. Now for the wiring probs and were set.

Apple Blossom (cross ones fingers) here we come.

 

I'm running out of fingers to cross. Damn rotaries.

 

Joe believe me I feel for you. Ive had some horrible thoughts about my car lately. I cant even look at her in the garage anymore and not be mad at her. I have extra fingers to cross for you. I guess they cause us all these problems, but sure make up for it when they are alive and working right.

To be continued Im sure......lol

 

Lol, yes they do.
Thanks

 

you better be able to go to abf, or else I will have nowhere to stay, I guess if I get drunk enough I probably wouldn't mind sleeping outside... Please don't take me up seriously on that.