That didnt take long , blown coolant seal !!!
#26
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (6)
Bummer Try what blwfly recommended, just take the rad cap off and start it up and if its bubbling or shooting out, you might have a blown coolant seal. If you have large amounts of white smoke that smells like coolant coming out the exhaust, you might have a blown coolant seal. If you car drinks coolant like koolaid, you might have a blown coolant seal. If your spark plugs are wet and have a green liquid on them, you might have a blown coolant seal. If your oil looks like a milkshake, you might have a blown coolant seal. If your car overheats often and you know your water pump, radiator, fans are in working condition, you might have a blown coolant seal.
If you know 10 different ways to diagnose a bad coolant seal, you might be an RX owner.
If you know 10 different ways to diagnose a bad coolant seal, you might be an RX owner.
#27
Never give up!
iTrader: (8)
Bruce, you need to pressure test the coolant system. Anyone with a kit like this can do it.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=65053
You basically connect the pump and fittings to your thermostat neck, apply 13-15psi of pressure, and if it drops away at all, you will either see a leak at a hose, or if you have no leaks, the coolant seals are shot. I would do it for you, but I am outta town till monday.
The method Nick D TII does "work", but lots of air trapped in the system can cause the same thing. I would check all your hoses, your water pump, and then burp the system.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=65053
You basically connect the pump and fittings to your thermostat neck, apply 13-15psi of pressure, and if it drops away at all, you will either see a leak at a hose, or if you have no leaks, the coolant seals are shot. I would do it for you, but I am outta town till monday.
The method Nick D TII does "work", but lots of air trapped in the system can cause the same thing. I would check all your hoses, your water pump, and then burp the system.
#28
kiwi from downunder..
iTrader: (4)
Bummer Try what blwfly recommended, just take the rad cap off and start it up and if its bubbling or shooting out, you might have a blown coolant seal. If you have large amounts of white smoke that smells like coolant coming out the exhaust, you might have a blown coolant seal. If you car drinks coolant like koolaid, you might have a blown coolant seal. If your spark plugs are wet and have a green liquid on them, you might have a blown coolant seal. If your oil looks like a milkshake, you might have a blown coolant seal. If your car overheats often and you know your water pump, radiator, fans are in working condition, you might have a blown coolant seal.
If you know 10 different ways to diagnose a bad coolant seal, you might be an RX owner.
If you know 10 different ways to diagnose a bad coolant seal, you might be an RX owner.
do what spyder mentioned i used one of those on my toyotas and found the head leaked very handy tool
#29
STEP ASIDE !!!!!!!
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thanks guys .... bubbles alot .. cant burp.. over heats .. changed rad , pump . and stat . .no white smok or water in oil ....................got tester . adaptors dont fit ..................................can i blow seal , if no smok or water in oil ????
#31
Moderating the Trochoid
iTrader: (56)
Bruce, you need to pressure test the coolant system. Anyone with a kit like this can do it.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=65053
You basically connect the pump and fittings to your thermostat neck, apply 13-15psi of pressure, and if it drops away at all, you will either see a leak at a hose, or if you have no leaks, the coolant seals are shot. I would do it for you, but I am outta town till monday.
The method Nick D TII does "work", but lots of air trapped in the system can cause the same thing. I would check all your hoses, your water pump, and then burp the system.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=65053
You basically connect the pump and fittings to your thermostat neck, apply 13-15psi of pressure, and if it drops away at all, you will either see a leak at a hose, or if you have no leaks, the coolant seals are shot. I would do it for you, but I am outta town till monday.
The method Nick D TII does "work", but lots of air trapped in the system can cause the same thing. I would check all your hoses, your water pump, and then burp the system.
#38
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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of 10 pounds? I thing JB weld has that all day. mabye not jb quick. BTW I'm a professional welder but I don't know of any other way to fuse plastic to metal, JB weld will hold up to alot long as you prep the parts right. IE clean and sand them.
I've JB welded plastic radiators that held for months untill I got a new radiator. I drove the **** out the car still too. you only need pressure for maybe an hour, if you wan't to be dead sure its not leaking?
theres JB weld sealing the hole for shutter valve on my FBs intake, I've never had an issue with it. holds fine.
anyways, I'm not saying its the right way, I'm just saying I could make that work for me.
I've JB welded plastic radiators that held for months untill I got a new radiator. I drove the **** out the car still too. you only need pressure for maybe an hour, if you wan't to be dead sure its not leaking?
theres JB weld sealing the hole for shutter valve on my FBs intake, I've never had an issue with it. holds fine.
anyways, I'm not saying its the right way, I'm just saying I could make that work for me.
#40
STEP ASIDE !!!!!!!
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ok i got tester to work ,,,, helps with the rubber gasket....it drops from 10 lbs to 8 in 1 hr................................then 4 over night ,,is that to much ???????????
#47
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (6)
It's just a 'head' gasket. Thats all you NEED to replace. And hey, if your going to open it up might as well port those 'heads' for more POWA!
I'd really like to see someone just replace the coolant seals and do nothing to the engine/rotor or seals and see how long it lasts. When my coolant seals went at 107k I'm pretty sure that the motor could have ran for another +50k.
Just pull the motor out, and keep all the rotor seals in place clean the sealing faces of the housings and clean the o-ring grooves and put in new seals and stack it back up. Could be done in a day. or even an afternoon and if all goes perfectly smooth, you should have a well broke in motor ready for redlining... ?maybe?
Parts list:
A few Gaskets, o-rings, rtv, hylomar, maybe rear/front main seals?
I'd really like to see someone just replace the coolant seals and do nothing to the engine/rotor or seals and see how long it lasts. When my coolant seals went at 107k I'm pretty sure that the motor could have ran for another +50k.
Just pull the motor out, and keep all the rotor seals in place clean the sealing faces of the housings and clean the o-ring grooves and put in new seals and stack it back up. Could be done in a day. or even an afternoon and if all goes perfectly smooth, you should have a well broke in motor ready for redlining... ?maybe?
Parts list:
A few Gaskets, o-rings, rtv, hylomar, maybe rear/front main seals?
#49
STEP ASIDE !!!!!!!
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SHUT UP JOE...................... IM KEEPIN THE SUPER 7.................I WORKED ALL DAY ,THEN TORE SUP 7 DOWN ., RAD , FAN, IC , ALT. , SOME LINES AND HOSES , BELTS . INTAK AND TB , READY TO COME OFF .. ONLY WORKED ON 1 HR. ..................more after work tomorrow. whats address allen ,? so i can drop keg off.? 10 mm . beter be ready joe . ill dust your ***....
#50
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
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thats great
So not wanting to race you now that you are getting it ported. Just dosent seem fair again, lmao... Well **** it why not, i'm down anyways, but no money or slips now.lol... :P
So not wanting to race you now that you are getting it ported. Just dosent seem fair again, lmao... Well **** it why not, i'm down anyways, but no money or slips now.lol... :P