Bummer Try what blwfly recommended, just take the rad cap off and start it up and if its bubbling or shooting out, you might have a blown coolant seal. If you have large amounts of white smoke that smells like coolant coming out the exhaust, you might have a blown coolant seal. If you car drinks coolant like koolaid, you might have a blown coolant seal. If your spark plugs are wet and have a green liquid on them, you might have a blown coolant seal. If your oil looks like a milkshake, you might have a blown coolant seal. If your car overheats often and you know your water pump, radiator, fans are in working condition, you might have a blown coolant seal.

If you know 10 different ways to diagnose a bad coolant seal, you might be an RX owner.

 

Bruce, you need to pressure test the coolant system. Anyone with a kit like this can do it.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=65053

You basically connect the pump and fittings to your thermostat neck, apply 13-15psi of pressure, and if it drops away at all, you will either see a leak at a hose, or if you have no leaks, the coolant seals are shot. I would do it for you, but I am outta town till monday.

The method Nick D TII does "work", but lots of air trapped in the system can cause the same thing. I would check all your hoses, your water pump, and then burp the system.

 

thats funny .. if its blown and you still drive it you must be a rx7 owner lol



do what spyder mentioned i used one of those on my toyotas and found the head leaked very handy tool

 

thanks guys .... bubbles alot .. cant burp.. over heats .. changed rad , pump . and stat . .no white smok or water in oil ....................got tester . adaptors dont fit ..................................can i blow seal , if no smok or water in oil ????

 

fan clutch? is it overheating while moving, or sitting still? or both?

 

Or you could do it with a rotary specific coolant pressure tester.

 

yeah but then u have to take the pump off rob which then u have to plug hose's etc .when the pressure tester just hooks to the radiator

 

My Snap On one is for all vehicles :?

If your speaking of the block tester (which you have to cap the rear coolant ports anyways) its too much of a hassle to use.
Replacing gaskets should not be involved in a simple coolant system pressure test

 

find an old cap and drill out the center to fit one of the testers inside, then JB weld the **** out of it. than zip tie a aluminum can to your exhaust that should fix it.

 

Uhhh, thats not possible. The caps with any kit should have a check valve built in and they can not be removed/modded.

 

30 bucks you give me that kit and a spare cap, and some JB weld I'll come up with a solution

 

Na, I would rather not use jbweld on anything that needs to hold a constant pressure. :p

 

of 10 pounds? I thing JB weld has that all day. mabye not jb quick. BTW I'm a professional welder but I don't know of any other way to fuse plastic to metal, JB weld will hold up to alot long as you prep the parts right. IE clean and sand them.

I've JB welded plastic radiators that held for months untill I got a new radiator. I drove the **** out the car still too. you only need pressure for maybe an hour, if you wan't to be dead sure its not leaking?

theres JB weld sealing the hole for shutter valve on my FBs intake, I've never had an issue with it. holds fine.

anyways, I'm not saying its the right way, I'm just saying I could make that work for me.

 

I got it to work .... Leakin like a mo fo. Ill start tarin the super 7 down for rebuild i guess ,,,,thanks guys !!!!! 5 mm for now

 

ok i got tester to work ,,,, helps with the rubber gasket....it drops from 10 lbs to 8 in 1 hr................................then 4 over night ,,is that to much ???????????

 

have u plugged everything for the test? could leak out of the overfill

i would drop the exhaust manifold and check for coolent in the exhaust

when i did my short block test i had it at 30psi for a hr with no drop but that was a fresh rebuild

 

wow............. ok i tryed to burp for 1 hr ,,, no good bubbles like hell
..............................misses too . time 4 ,,,,,,,,, v8 . lol

 

you can't just give up after one blown engine. expecially on just a coolant seal. you need like cracked housings, or a colection of scrap motors. before finally giving up.

 

^^ words could not be truer haha

 

cost ?????

 

the cost is... worth it.. hahaha. just do it

 

It's just a 'head' gasket. Thats all you NEED to replace. And hey, if your going to open it up might as well port those 'heads' for more POWA!

I'd really like to see someone just replace the coolant seals and do nothing to the engine/rotor or seals and see how long it lasts. When my coolant seals went at 107k I'm pretty sure that the motor could have ran for another +50k.

Just pull the motor out, and keep all the rotor seals in place clean the sealing faces of the housings and clean the o-ring grooves and put in new seals and stack it back up. Could be done in a day. or even an afternoon and if all goes perfectly smooth, you should have a well broke in motor ready for redlining... ?maybe?

Parts list:
A few Gaskets, o-rings, rtv, hylomar, maybe rear/front main seals?

 

hey bruce, you should trade allen your car if you dont want it anymore... lol...J/K......

 

SHUT UP JOE...................... IM KEEPIN THE SUPER 7.................I WORKED ALL DAY ,THEN TORE SUP 7 DOWN ., RAD , FAN, IC , ALT. , SOME LINES AND HOSES , BELTS . INTAK AND TB , READY TO COME OFF .. ONLY WORKED ON 1 HR. ..................more after work tomorrow. whats address allen ,? so i can drop keg off.? 10 mm . beter be ready joe . ill dust your ***....

 

thats great
So not wanting to race you now that you are getting it ported. Just dosent seem fair again, lmao... Well **** it why not, i'm down anyways, but no money or slips now.lol... :P