That didnt take long , blown coolant seal !!!
Thread Starter
STEP ASIDE !!!!!!!
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Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Salem,OR
That didnt take long , blown coolant seal !!!
dont even think i left drive of shop , from getting waste gate ported and f m i c ,done .. overheating , losing water ,bubbleing from rad . and white ex . . still hauls *** and starts right up .now i drive it like i stole it . til it dies !!should just kept my na........10mm
well when my coolant seal went it was white smoke like crazy and compression in teh oil.
as for rinding a short block you'll just have to find someone that has one. or just pick up a rebuild kit from atkins. i think its like 1000 or so for bearings and seals.
as for rinding a short block you'll just have to find someone that has one. or just pick up a rebuild kit from atkins. i think its like 1000 or so for bearings and seals.
How many miles on the engine? Open the rad cap and fire it up, if it shoots out like 3-6 ft it's definitely the coolant seal.
Short block? in good condition.. Good luck.
You could do a budget rebuild (bring the flames) and tear down the entire motor and measure everything and buy only what you NEED. And you could probably do it for less than 1k if your engine doesn't have +200k miles on it...
12mm......
Short block? in good condition.. Good luck.
You could do a budget rebuild (bring the flames) and tear down the entire motor and measure everything and buy only what you NEED. And you could probably do it for less than 1k if your engine doesn't have +200k miles on it...
12mm......
My Coolant rings went at around 107k or so. You gotta question what condition a engine is in when it has just been sitting. If an engine has blown coolant rings and gets water into the combustion chamber and it sits for a while like that can trash the insides of the engine...

I wouldn't buy an unknown milage motor unless you know it runs good and has good compression, even then your crossing your fingers. I'd say you're better off rebuilding what you already have but that's just my 2 cents...
Good luck... 9mm.....

I wouldn't buy an unknown milage motor unless you know it runs good and has good compression, even then your crossing your fingers. I'd say you're better off rebuilding what you already have but that's just my 2 cents...
Good luck... 9mm.....
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Thread Starter
STEP ASIDE !!!!!!!
iTrader: (19)
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,270
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From: Salem,OR
8 mm . . ok . for 1 my 240 hp .10 psi ,, will blow that *** r too......is jinx in jail ?? havent heard a word.. ill still smoke his ***... with blown seal .mabey i buy a bike//wife hates me and 7 . btw , im not pullin motor til it goes BOOM. 7 mm
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,899
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From: Willamette Valley, OR
10mm, I would like to see a dyno sheet proving the 240 horse power you are claiming. It may feel like it to you, but its probably much less. You should come to the next Dyno Day and we can find out what your super seven is really putting out.
don't blow it up if its just the coolant seals rebuild it., told you not to let kids borrow your car for 2 months. thats what took so long to get turbo off, you can't do that when your racing all the other kids in town..
No I'm not dead, just been working on keeping my T2 running. got new tranny today, feels much tighter than the current one. every gear rolls smooth. can't wait to get this thing in. but I have to pull my PS first....
lots of work to do this week. I'll paypals you that 30 bucks friday evening, or I can come to salem next week and help you pull your motor for the cash? eaither way. at least its just a coolant seal. btw don't overheat your motor anymore, it warps aluminum meaning your intake and rotor housings, possably rotors. but chances are somthing will fail first. also excess heat causes detonation. I also need to install my temp guage.
No I'm not dead, just been working on keeping my T2 running. got new tranny today, feels much tighter than the current one. every gear rolls smooth. can't wait to get this thing in. but I have to pull my PS first....
lots of work to do this week. I'll paypals you that 30 bucks friday evening, or I can come to salem next week and help you pull your motor for the cash? eaither way. at least its just a coolant seal. btw don't overheat your motor anymore, it warps aluminum meaning your intake and rotor housings, possably rotors. but chances are somthing will fail first. also excess heat causes detonation. I also need to install my temp guage.
Don't break stuff to break stuff, that's stupid. You'll be buying a lot more than just coolant seals if you're overheating it...
if there still in spec they can be reused. when I replace mine I was thinking about ALS seals. I guess there supose to not brake, just bend causing less damage to you internals. they can be straitend and reused is the word on the street also.
Thread Starter
STEP ASIDE !!!!!!!
iTrader: (19)
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,270
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From: Salem,OR
I might have jumped the gun ,, rad. Might be pluged , white smok just fuel .and or water pump . Im changin all 2 day .... Im crossin fingers . 10mm hopefully .
if your getting tons of white smoke from your exhaust its coolant seals, but if its coming from engine bay it would be somthing else. I'd check the turbo coolant lines, and the intake to turbo coolant line might be dripping. I've had that issue. waterpump would be leaking from pully area.
Thread Starter
STEP ASIDE !!!!!!!
iTrader: (19)
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,270
Likes: 0
From: Salem,OR
1 puff white smok when start , fuel .................. over heats and bubbles big time......................? they gave me wrong water pump . and i changed rad , be in touch ' slow pok jinx
yeah, part stores are notorious for giving wrong parts, and rotary parts are even worse. I'm gonna go up and ask if they can get my some new valves and see what they give me. bet you they sell me a valve.
stop overheating it or it will blow up. keep an eye on that gauge, never let it get half way up. should be less than a third. mine sits under 1/4 most of the time. boost and temp are your two main concerns, and don't run out of gas. hitting boost at E is dangerous.
stop overheating it or it will blow up. keep an eye on that gauge, never let it get half way up. should be less than a third. mine sits under 1/4 most of the time. boost and temp are your two main concerns, and don't run out of gas. hitting boost at E is dangerous.
i dont know if its mentioned but take the radiator cap off when its running and if its bubling and building up it can indicate blown coolent seals to as combution gas's go into the coolent system



