Check my work please.
12-26-09, 09:39 PM
#1
Check my work please.
Ok, after 10 months, I'm finally putting this beast back together. I'm running a 45 DCOE carb (for reference). So, I planned all this out months ago, so just want a few of you to read what I'm doing and be sure it sounds correct. Thanks! I kept my charcoal cannister and ran my fuel return and vent to it. I ran my brake booster line to the intake, as well as my crankcase ventilation. (the one on the filler neck, plugged the lower one.) I took the sight plate off at the top of the motor, (near the slave) turned the motor over till the opening on the flywheel (where the numbers are stencilled) was centered on the flat spot, the aligned my dizzy rotor to L1 and dropped her in. That should be TDC correct? Lastly, I'm connecting my pump, filter and reg tomorow, but am curious as to what to do with the vaccuum fitting at the top of the reg. just leave it? plug it? Here's a pic for reference.
So, do the lines sound right? dizzy? vaccuum on the fpr? Also, when I connect my fuel pump, can I then just unplug the stock one, plumb a couple hoses to bypass it and thats that? Thanks to everyonr that reads and comments here. I'm just scared of ****** up first time out. Measure twice, cut once, ya know!
So, do the lines sound right? dizzy? vaccuum on the fpr? Also, when I connect my fuel pump, can I then just unplug the stock one, plumb a couple hoses to bypass it and thats that? Thanks to everyonr that reads and comments here. I'm just scared of ****** up first time out. Measure twice, cut once, ya know!
12-26-09, 10:00 PM
#2
Sounds good to me. I just did a similar setup on a 48 DHLA Dellorto for a customer With a 12A Streetport. Sounds like you a doing a few of the same things I did.
What are you going to do for vaccume advance?
Yes TDC for the motor should be the flat spot of the flywheel at 9 O'Clock, if not that either e-shaft key at 9 O'Clock.
I Wouldn't mind seeing some pics of your setup if you could.
What are you going to do for vaccume advance?
Yes TDC for the motor should be the flat spot of the flywheel at 9 O'Clock, if not that either e-shaft key at 9 O'Clock.
I Wouldn't mind seeing some pics of your setup if you could.
12-26-09, 10:41 PM
#3
Sounds good to me. I just did a similar setup on a 48 DHLA Dellorto for a customer With a 12A Streetport. Sounds like you a doing a few of the same things I did.
What are you going to do for vaccume advance?
Yes TDC for the motor should be the flat spot of the flywheel at 9 O'Clock, if not that either e-shaft key at 9 O'Clock.
I Wouldn't mind seeing some pics of your setup if you could.
What are you going to do for vaccume advance?
Yes TDC for the motor should be the flat spot of the flywheel at 9 O'Clock, if not that either e-shaft key at 9 O'Clock.
I Wouldn't mind seeing some pics of your setup if you could.
Lot's more work to do! Wish me luck.
BTW- no vac advance I'm making a custom ignition box and using DLIDFIS
12-27-09, 07:50 PM
#4
Made a custom bracket out of aluminum flatbar and mounted my Gen.2 fuseblock today, also mounted my coils for my DLIDFIS setup.
so, anyone know if I "need" the vac nipple on my fpr in the first post? Fuel pump question in first post? I'm working around these till I know for sure. runnigg fuel system as soon as I know. Anyone sees anything I'm doing or did wrong, please speak up! Thanks!
so, anyone know if I "need" the vac nipple on my fpr in the first post? Fuel pump question in first post? I'm working around these till I know for sure. runnigg fuel system as soon as I know. Anyone sees anything I'm doing or did wrong, please speak up! Thanks!
12-27-09, 09:01 PM
#5
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Only reason you'd need to hook up the vacuum reference port is if you were doing a blow-through turbo/supercharged setup. Otherwise you just keep the fuel pressure constant. Don't plug the port, just leave it open to atmosphere.
You could just bypass the stock pump if you wanted to, but I don't see a reason not to remove it while you're under there.
You could just bypass the stock pump if you wanted to, but I don't see a reason not to remove it while you're under there.
12-27-09, 09:09 PM
#6
Only reason you'd need to hook up the vacuum reference port is if you were doing a blow-through turbo setup. Otherwise you just keep the fuel pressure constant. Don't plug the port, just leave it open to atmosphere.
You could unplug the stock fuel pump and bypass it, but I don't see why you'd want to leave the stock pump in the car.
You could unplug the stock fuel pump and bypass it, but I don't see why you'd want to leave the stock pump in the car.
so, since it doesn't hurt anything, rather leave it there but unplugged and bypassed. mine goes out, and it's 5 minutes and a screwdriver and I'm back on the road.
BTW- thanks for the confirmation! Just wanted to be sure.
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12-27-09, 10:35 PM
#9
Thanks! No, it's actually going to get pulled and rebuilt soon as I can get my other motor and find a place to pull/swap them out. It's just a "get me running right away" motor.
Thanks! I'm gonna be happy just to get everything on and done and pray I get it all right the first shot! Then I still gotta tune/time and tweak.
I just finished measuring and cutting my plug wires, they'll go in before work tomorrow. Oh, yeah, I found a pack of "cable stops" that look like they will work for the omp linkage! they're threaded barrels with holes for the cable. I'm gonna drill the hole big enough for the omp wire and use a screw long enough to tighten through the lever with a small nut on the other side as a keeper.
Thanks! I'm gonna be happy just to get everything on and done and pray I get it all right the first shot!
Then I still gotta tune/time and tweak. I just finished measuring and cutting my plug wires, they'll go in before work tomorrow. Oh, yeah, I found a pack of "cable stops" that look like they will work for the omp linkage! they're threaded barrels with holes for the cable. I'm gonna drill the hole big enough for the omp wire and use a screw long enough to tighten through the lever with a small nut on the other side as a keeper.
12-27-09, 10:45 PM
#10
Cool The reason I asked is I noticed the Gilmer Drive belt. The customer I did a rebuild for and a very similar setup has a Gilmer, however I will not be installing it until after the breakin. It has all new bearings and I did not want to have any stress on them until after the breakin period. Not that the Gilmer would add that much pull at all, but just to be sure.
Where did you find that BTW?
Where did you find that BTW?
12-27-09, 10:58 PM
#11
Cool The reason I asked is I noticed the Gilmer Drive belt. The customer I did a rebuild for and a very similar setup has a Gilmer, however I will not be installing it until after the breakin. It has all new bearings and I did not want to have any stress on them until after the breakin period. Not that the Gilmer would add that much pull at all, but just to be sure.
Where did you find that BTW?
Where did you find that BTW?
The zero slip thing is just a bonus.
01-04-10, 11:27 PM
#17
Almost Done!
Got my fuel lines, pump, regulator w/gauge and filter all plumbed in and old pump bypassed.
Finished bolting up my RB dual exhaust setup (thanks Jesus!)
Finally finished making my DLIDFIS ignition box w/HEI modules and a couple aluminum heatsinks
And I removed the igniters from the dizzy, trimmed the plugs, and added pigtails w/weathertight connections and heatshrink
Also relocated the battery to behind the driver. All I got left is a mass of wiring to tidy up and re-loom. Run new battery cables, connect all the plugs, add fluids and fire this bitch up! WOOHOO!!!!
01-08-10, 02:30 AM
#18
I think tomorrow's the day!!
Haven't slept for **** in a week, been goin out at night and workin on the seven with a flashlight. 1am is the earliest I've been to sleep in a week.
BUT, I got my wiring sorted out, reloomed the front harness, made brackets and mounted my Gen.2 fuseblock, built my ignition box, cut and fit my plug wires, mounted all 3 coils and relocated my battery. My care package finally got here from Mazda trix, so I replaced my crush washers and connected my oil line. So far the only **** up was I didn't realise till I finished the looming that I'd cut the wrong plug for the headlight washer. (cut off my drivers side front turn signal) Now I can't sleep. I'm excited and terrified! Tomorrow I'll drain the tank, add fresh gas, oil, new plugs, tape up and secure the sensor wires and pray to god this baby fires! Wish me luck! It's my first rotary and I tackled alot of **** I've never done, but I've been reading researching since Feb. 09 for this, so I'm fairly confident. Looks like I'll make next months meets!
1am is the earliest I've been to sleep in a week. BUT, I got my wiring sorted out, reloomed the front harness, made brackets and mounted my Gen.2 fuseblock, built my ignition box, cut and fit my plug wires, mounted all 3 coils and relocated my battery. My care package finally got here from Mazda trix, so I replaced my crush washers and connected my oil line. So far the only **** up was I didn't realise till I finished the looming that I'd cut the wrong plug for the headlight washer. (cut off my drivers side front turn signal) Now I can't sleep. I'm excited and terrified! Tomorrow I'll drain the tank, add fresh gas, oil, new plugs, tape up and secure the sensor wires and pray to god this baby fires! Wish me luck! It's my first rotary and I tackled alot of **** I've never done, but I've been reading researching since Feb. 09 for this, so I'm fairly confident. Looks like I'll make next months meets!
