Upgrayedd

iTrader: (1)

I'm thinking of switching to a 20w/50 Full Synthetic made by Lucas Oil. It's made for racing and turbo applications. Just wondering if anyone has any negative experiences with using Lucas Oil...

ZeroDrift

iTrader: (1)

I do not know about Lucas oils, but I'd never touch any of their additives with a 10ft pole. For oil I stick with Mobile 1 as it has no ash content and is fairly affordable. If price isn't much of a concern look into Redline and Royal Purple products (both also have no ash content). I have never tried Royal Purple, but heard many good comments about em. I use Redline oil in my tranny and diff and I highly recommend their products!

Upgrayedd

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Clayton, out of the Royal Purple and the Redline, only Redline offers a 20w/50, at least that I've seen locally. I've never heard of anyone using Redline in anything other than transmissions.

Ideally I'd like to find a 50/50 synthetic blend but in a 20w/50 selection is limited.

I've heard negatives about synthetic eating turbo oil seals...

I may end up just using a Pennzoil 20w/50 standard oil as I'm not much of a fan of Mobil1 products... I've heard good things about the Pennzoil 20w/50 from Steve Kan.

As far as price the Lucas Oil is over $7 per quart so I'm not too worried about cost

ZeroDrift

iTrader: (1)

Mobile 1, Redline and Royal Purple are actually a class 4 (class 4 = true) synthetic oil that has no ash & zinc content and shouldn't give any issues with seals. If you are currently using traditional oil, I'd suggest going with a 50/50 blend for the next oil change, then make the change to a pure synthetic. I personally use Mobile 1 and had no issues with anything. The lack of ash is actually quite good as it burns much cleaner than other synthetic oils and should help prevent carbon buildup. Just keep in mind the oil does burn, but at a higher temperature when compared to conventional oil.

-Oh on a side note, Castrol synthetic oil is actually not a synthetic at all. Its just a ultra refined conventional oil that is labeled a synthetic. It would be a class 2 on the scale.

~THE SCALE~
-Class 1 = Conventional
-Class 2 = Refinded Conventional (can be labeled synthetic)
-Class 3 = Low grade synthetic. (may contain some conventional base oil)
-Class 4 = True synthetic. (Pure synthetic oil)

Here is an interesting site regarding oil. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
I've only read a small potion of whats listed several years back in regards to oil additives. Here is another site with the data: http://mcgeerf.tripod.com/americansy...coil/id17.html

Good luck!

z-beater

After what happened last weekend I asked what Steve used in his own car he said valvoline durablend or Redline. Both in 20w/50. I am going to stick with valvoline since that is what I have been using from day one on this motor.

ZeroDrift

iTrader: (1)

I have been using Mobile 1 10w30, but plan to switch to 20w50 next week.

Any advice on oil filters?

Upgrayedd

iTrader: (1)

I just can't seem to find any 50/50 blends is the problem, Clayton... That was my thought was to go 50/50 and then eventually full synthetic, but none of the local stores have blends... (Schucks, CarQuest, Autozone) Especially not in a 20w/50

dhays

iTrader: (1)

I'm a bit confused about engine oil weight. Lots of folks on the forum swear by 20W-50 oil for the summer. Mazda calls for 10W-30. Jerry at Jerry's Little Car Shop says use any 'ol 10W-30 oil but just change it often enough.

I know the FD gets hot and gets some fuel dilution. I wonder though about using a heavy oil. I switched to a 10W40 on the last oil change and noticed a big jump in my oil pressure. At what point is the viscosity of the oil increase to the point that the OMP can't do it's job at high rpm?

The other thing I've wondered about is using some of the new 5W-30 or 0W-30 oils. Back in the early 90's there wasn't nearly the range of oil options. Modern oils are really quite good.

So what is the argument for going with a 20W-50 oil?

MWMburton

wix or k&n, both good filters. i have heard though that k&n filters just have larger holes (like there air filters) to just let oil through faster. but wix filters are amazing, 3-5 micron and i have heard somewhere that theyre even 11 micron but idk bout 11. i do know that ppl who drive big rigs usually run wix filters n amsoil n they dont do changes for like 20-80+ thousand miles; i dont recommed that.

Red_Rabbit86

+1 for wix i really like thoes filters. however i just found out that k&n does oil fiters so i might check them out

pluto

Amsoil buddy... not Pennzoil.. I would never use Pennzoil in my life. (maybe in my truck. :-) )

mort2002

iTrader: (1)

i dont think i would even run pennzoil in my truck, i have no use for that crap. in my normal cars i run catrol GTX, and in others i usally run the moblie 1 sythetic, and just this time i tried the castrol sythetic, but after reading this i wont be using it agian.

Upgrayedd

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I realized that afterwards. Cuz I remember you saying AMSoil and thinking I heard Pennzoil, but then you said AMSoil again. I'm just confusing myself

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

redline motor oil is mobile 1 with red dye. stick to mobile 1 or royal purple very low ash count. Lucas has a high count for being synthetic.

Upgrayedd

iTrader: (1)

So from what I'm reading it appears the Royal Purple is a blend of standard and synthetic oils. They offer a full racing blend and standard motor oil in 20w/50.

Mobil1 doesn't show a 20w/50 available in their product line.

And the AMSoil is available in 20w/50 only in a Synthetic premium protection blend.

Now the problem is finding local dealers so I can avoid over-paying for the oil directly from the manufacturer.

I'm finding local dealers but have yet to see a 20w/50 on anyone's shelf.

As far as AMSoil I found local private dealers so I may look into that