rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone here know a lot about wheels and could advise me on all the parameters to consider to make a very informed decision on sizing?

I would ask this in the tire and wheel section, but I dont think the mentality there is to help amateurs in this category anymore...

I have just too many questions, and I am hoping someone that has put a lot of time into considering wheels and tires could pass on some of that knowledge. Plus I might be able to get a real local opinion based on the kind of road conditions we deal with here in the GNW.

How do I pick wheel diameter based on performance and aesthetics?

How do I account for tire roll when I consider clearancing dimensions?

What tire width to wheel width do I select to avoid/minimize the effects of wheel chipping from road FOD and light/very light curbing?


Rx7 wheel sizing questions with specific requirements:


If I want my wheels to fit under these conditions what should I be looking at to fulfill these requirements?

Wheel TE37
Tire ? Excellent wet performance preferred, TBD: (right now I have stock wheels and TOYO T1-S tires)

There are things that seem to be the norm but if someone could post how it should be done correctly with balance and overall performance in mind I would love to understand the correct decisions to make rather than just the popular ones.

I want a wheel that will be as wide as possible but still have a reasonable amount of tire sidewall protruding out from the plane of the wheel to provide adequate buffer from rubbing,curbing and road FOD.

In reality is this really the correct thing to do for street driving conditions, make a wheel as wide as possible? How does the tires interface patch react when the cars weight stays the same and the area is increased allowing less pressure against the rubber per square inch (is this a correct synopsis of the issue)?


I would also like to keep a fairly deep “section height” sidewall for the benefits of pneumatic damping when going down the road. (more balance between looks and comfort than just one way or the other )

I really want a wheel and tire combo that produces absolutely no rubbing, and have no desire to roll the fenders or make modifications to the chassis to allow a slightly increases size to “work”.

Is there a sweet spot that someone can recommend that fits these requirements?

It is true (in practice) that a larger wheel will actually decrease performance because of the larger displacement of mass further away from the spindles centerline correct? Is this a concern, especially since the car has a relatively low torque to HP rating? I guess what I am wondering, can you really feel the difference in acceleration/braking with a heavy large diameter wheel VS a stock wheel and light tire combo? Or is this a nominal effect on the feel of the car?

What are the advantages and disadvantages of Dished, Concave, Flat faced wheels?

TIA

Also, just want to throw this out there and see opinions.


I see that they make a fairly convincing TE37 Knockoff, would it be wise to avoid this route completely?

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...highlight=te37
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...highlight=te37

RCFC89

I think for anyone to better answer your questions about a wheel/tire set-up what kind of driving are you going to be doing? How much power are you going to put down? Pertaining to the Varrstoens they are awesome. Very light 18's under 19lbs. and they look identical to the TE's. For the price of 250 a wheel they are a steal but they are no volks. But if you can't afford paying 700 a wheel for volks they are a good alternative.

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

Brutally honest:

Driving conditions: I am a very tame driver, all street use, some moderately hard pulls to show off the hardware under the hood.

HP~400, but I rarely if ever will see this used.

So no chance of a poorly built wheel by doing this? This is my only concern that something like this would/may happen, and at any cost safety shouldn't be compromised. And I dont mean the premium construction of the VOLK VS Varrstoens, simply the fact that they are not produces without safety in mind. A normal wheel with normal failure rates will qualify as OK in my mind



I am able to afford the premium for the Volks/Rays, but I am also a realist, and that is a hefty sum for what amounts to almost identical end solutions. I have been looking for a good used set, but things have never workout. (still looking if somone has a set BTW)

If someone in the know can look at the conditions I would use them in and make a solid case for the use of the Varrstoens, by all means I would really consider them.

From my point of view, it is more of a issue whether they fit flawlessly under my (maybe) unreasonable stipulations. As well as not having the bragging rights to say they are not knockoffs (which is shallow, but I concede that this is a thought that enters my mind)

I have looked into making the Varrstoens look even more authentic, by purchasing the factory stickers for the Rays wheels and I think I remember seeing that the original caps,stems can be used IIRC
Are there any good sources for these little details if one was to consider the Varrstoens and wanted to make them look closer to the originals.

Thanks for your time and help.
I have been wanting to get this taken care of for a long time, but I have a hard time claiming pure ignorance on the subject, and just asking for literally being spoon fed.
Plus I really dont think most want what I want in a wheel and tire package ultimately.

Upgrayedd

iTrader: (1)

That happens when you're 90* sideways and you have a shitty built wheel like a TenzoR or a knockoff brand or if you run the wheel into a curb at speed. Which that looks like a wrong wheel drive car so it probably understeered hard hit a curb and snapped the spokes out. If you want fitment advice, ask Rishie of Auto RnD you can find him and his company in the vendor section. He is the fitment master! Just buy a reputable brand of wheel and you should be fine

thejallenator

iTrader: (14)

and make sure that when you do buy a set that the spokes mate to the outter part of the rim more towards the center. not right up front, that makes for a stronger wheel.

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

And thats one department I think I know well, poorly spect or manufactured parts that forgo standards in loo of making the manufacturing process easy faster and cheaper. I have seen it a thousand times, and its repercussions, unfortunately I dont think I understand who this company is, there reputation and even more important what users have to say about this product in a meaningful way.



But that is all beside the point, what are some ways I can answer some of these questions I have?

How do I determine how wide the wheel should be in comparison to the tire for “curbing” protection.

I know about this issue intimately, as I purchased a set of wheels for my sisters as a graduation present from a “professional” at a local bigbrand store and he assured me he understood that a girl what the intended user, and that all my worries where unfounded, and that things where going to be fine, his “buddy” has the exact same car and they put the same size wheel and tire package on his car with no issues.

Come to find out not only did the wheel and tire combo rub on both sides, the wheels where hyper sensitive to any road hazard, and marred up the edges incredibly easily.

I feel it was because he did not use a proper width wheel that would allow a wider tire to protrude out from the face of the wheel protecting the wheel from being marred IMHO.

And to add insult to injury, they obviously would not take the wheels and tires back after the damage, so we where stuck with a great set of wheels, but they looked like $#!T because they where so easily damaged.

And I understand why people may say “cry me a river; driver better” but these wheels really where sized awful, I also did some small damage to them because I dropped off a uneven step in the pavement at a gas station , and the edge of a wheel actually stuck out from the rubber, and marked little morse code scratches in the wheels lip. It was absolutely ridiculous! A combo of low profile tires and too wide of rimes eventually made those things look unpresentable, and it was a crying shame as those where fairly nice wheels.

Thanks for you input

rotarypower101

iTrader: (1)

How so? This is something I have never really even considered until recently, the difference between Dished, Concave, Flat faced wheels.

How do these differ, and is it mostly aesthetic?

I would think any wheel that lets itself cantilever over the entire width of the wheel is just asking for trouble, but it is done all the time so....

My personal taste is for the flat faced wheel, or shallow outside lip, IMO they look the best, but again I would love to hear someone make a case for the different types out there.

thejallenator

iTrader: (14)

well a while back i was buyin honda parts from this older guy somewhere off 26 and he told me multiple times to make sure if i ever buy rims that a stronger rim will have the center part of the rim will be more centered in the outter circle of the rim. had something to do with the way it distributes the weight and all that. cant remember exactly what he said but he swore by what he said, seemed to make a good arguement