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Old Nov 4, 2009 | 06:37 PM
  #1  
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From: Philomath Oregon.The five whole blocks of it!
2 questions...

Ok so i have been told that only a SE 13b front cover will make it possible to put a 2nd gen engine into a FB, however i am seeing here: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ale+13b+intake That a 12a front cover will work and all i need is the SE pan and pickup tube.... Is this true?

And my second question is about T2 exhaust manifolds.. I see the cast iron S5 manifolds out and about, but i hear they crack alot and are getting harder to come by.. I also see that there are stainless "custom" ones being sold as well... Which is the better set up to run.. I know they run hot, very hot, but is that too much for the stainless, or is there a flow issue with those- i know that with headers the tubes must be the same lenght, is that an issue with these as well?

What are your thoughts on the difference between the two, for or against? Why?


THANKS!
Old Nov 4, 2009 | 06:49 PM
  #2  
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From: Spanaway, WA
yeah a12a one works but the omp wont work right from what i read, like 12 only has 2 noozels that go itno carb , where as all the 13bs have 4 nozzels 2 in rotor housign 2 in intake manifold.

if you plan on using a stock turbo weather its s4 or s5 id just use the stock turbo manfiold, usually its not hard to find one thats in good shape and not cracked very badly.
Old Nov 4, 2009 | 07:04 PM
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so if i am running a carb and premix it does not matter?
Old Nov 4, 2009 | 07:07 PM
  #4  
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i can see your hurting for some information, but can you refrain from posting the same thread in different sections. it takes up server space.

noticed your post in the 1st gen section as well as here...so i thought i would through that out to you, mod's frown appon that sort of thing. just for future refrence
Old Nov 4, 2009 | 07:13 PM
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From: Washington- bellingham
yes, and no. if you go with a s4 motor you can get rid of the omp system since its mechanical. but if you go with a s5 motor you will need the omp or a standalone to keep it from goin into safe mode since its all electronic. or you use the se or 12a dizzy and run it without a computer as a direct fire system just like the 12a seeing how you would be putting a carb on it. at least i think thats how the 12a's are, havent had one for a long *** time.

-Earl
Old Nov 4, 2009 | 07:24 PM
  #6  
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From: Philomath Oregon.The five whole blocks of it!
Originally Posted by Boost Junky
i can see your hurting for some information, but can you refrain from posting the same thread in different sections. it takes up server space.

noticed your post in the 1st gen section as well as here...so i thought i would through that out to you, mod's frown appon that sort of thing. just for future refrence
My bad, dont want to annoy anyone, just wanted to get some info, and figured that if i post it on the NW section those around me can help and in the first gen section i might get those all over to help.. Thanks for the heads up though, i will refrain from this again !
Old Nov 4, 2009 | 07:26 PM
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From: Philomath Oregon.The five whole blocks of it!
So can interchange the distributor to get rid of all the electrical system and keep the stock FB wiring the same as well? That would be cool! Me and Computers dont get along well,lol... I also head that the water pump housings interchange, is this also truth?
Old Nov 6, 2009 | 12:55 PM
  #8  
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From: Philomath Oregon.The five whole blocks of it!
my second question is about T2 exhaust manifolds.. I see the cast iron S5 manifolds out and about, but i hear they crack alot and are getting harder to come by.. I also see that there are stainless "custom" ones being sold as well... Which is the better set up to run.. I know they run hot, very hot, but is that too much for the stainless, or is there a flow issue with those- i know that with headers the tubes must be the same lenght, is that an issue with these as well?


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