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-   NW RX-7 Forum (https://www.rx7club.com/nw-rx-7-forum-33/)
-   -   2 questions... (https://www.rx7club.com/nw-rx-7-forum-33/2-questions-872102/)

joemaddox 11-04-09 06:37 PM

2 questions...
 
Ok so i have been told that only a SE 13b front cover will make it possible to put a 2nd gen engine into a FB, however i am seeing here: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ale+13b+intake That a 12a front cover will work and all i need is the SE pan and pickup tube.... Is this true? :dunno:

And my second question is about T2 exhaust manifolds.. I see the cast iron S5 manifolds out and about, but i hear they crack alot and are getting harder to come by.. I also see that there are stainless "custom" ones being sold as well... Which is the better set up to run.. I know they run hot, very hot, but is that too much for the stainless, or is there a flow issue with those- i know that with headers the tubes must be the same lenght, is that an issue with these as well?

What are your thoughts on the difference between the two, for or against? Why?:dunno:


THANKS!:icon_tup:

KompressorLOgic 11-04-09 06:49 PM

yeah a12a one works but the omp wont work right from what i read, like 12 only has 2 noozels that go itno carb , where as all the 13bs have 4 nozzels 2 in rotor housign 2 in intake manifold.

if you plan on using a stock turbo weather its s4 or s5 id just use the stock turbo manfiold, usually its not hard to find one thats in good shape and not cracked very badly.

joemaddox 11-04-09 07:04 PM

so if i am running a carb and premix it does not matter?

Boost Junky 11-04-09 07:07 PM

i can see your hurting for some information, but can you refrain from posting the same thread in different sections. it takes up server space.

noticed your post in the 1st gen section as well as here...so i thought i would through that out to you, mod's frown appon that sort of thing. just for future refrence

rotary-guy 11-04-09 07:13 PM

yes, and no. if you go with a s4 motor you can get rid of the omp system since its mechanical. but if you go with a s5 motor you will need the omp or a standalone to keep it from goin into safe mode since its all electronic. or you use the se or 12a dizzy and run it without a computer as a direct fire system just like the 12a seeing how you would be putting a carb on it. at least i think thats how the 12a's are, havent had one for a long ass time.

-Earl

joemaddox 11-04-09 07:24 PM


Originally Posted by Boost Junky (Post 9605442)
i can see your hurting for some information, but can you refrain from posting the same thread in different sections. it takes up server space.

noticed your post in the 1st gen section as well as here...so i thought i would through that out to you, mod's frown appon that sort of thing. just for future refrence

My bad, dont want to annoy anyone, just wanted to get some info, and figured that if i post it on the NW section those around me can help and in the first gen section i might get those all over to help.. Thanks for the heads up though, i will refrain from this again :)!

joemaddox 11-04-09 07:26 PM

So can interchange the distributor to get rid of all the electrical system and keep the stock FB wiring the same as well? That would be cool! Me and Computers dont get along well,lol... I also head that the water pump housings interchange, is this also truth?

joemaddox 11-06-09 12:55 PM

my second question is about T2 exhaust manifolds.. I see the cast iron S5 manifolds out and about, but i hear they crack alot and are getting harder to come by.. I also see that there are stainless "custom" ones being sold as well... Which is the better set up to run.. I know they run hot, very hot, but is that too much for the stainless, or is there a flow issue with those- i know that with headers the tubes must be the same lenght, is that an issue with these as well?


:)


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