So I have a 1990 T2 Turbo that I bought last fall, the PO didn't know too much about it and I fear he has tinkered it into some trouble. The problem is that I have no power, Im believing because of lack of compression. My water temp gauge has to reach 150 degrees before it idles on its own. When it idles it sounds uniform, no skipping beats or irregular sounds. I would think if it was an apex seal out that the idle would sound odd. Any advice or ideas? Im thinking maybe a gasket problem

 

a compression test is a quick definative test for broken apex seal. if the idle control valve is removed or damaged it will affect idle.

 

No, it doesn't really sound like an apex seal. Sounds like PO "modded" the idle control or the valve is not working as Sideo mentioned.

Does the car have any mods? Does it rev normally? Does it make any funny noises (such as a loud wooshing sound) when accelerating? Maybe do a video recording of the car while accelerating so we can hear it. Do you have a boost gauge? How much boost does it run?

 

In 2nd gen terms, what the 2 above me are saying is the BAC may be removed or non-functional. The thermowax, which boost cold idle speed to 1.5k RPM, may also be gone.

Rough idle can be a vacuum leak or you could just need new spark plugs.

 

It doesn't have any mechanical mods, I do have a boost gauge but I will have to check later how much it is pushing. The car has such low compression that it can't make it up our 45 degree drive way in first gear. Also I smelled antifreeze as the car was warming up which is most likely another problem. I should have a video up when spring break rolls around soon

 

You'll need a compression tester modified for rotary use (schraeder valve removed) to test compression. Thread it into a trailing spark plug hole, remove the EGI fuse(s), crank and watch the bounces. If the tester has a bleeder button, hold it down. Minimum factory spec is about 85 psi.

 

So I am about to start working on it tomorrow, can I get a list of diagnostics I need to run or areas to check. We are prepared to remove the engine and check gaskets

 

I wouldn't do anything until you do the compression check.

 

ok, well thats our first step, whats next?

 

If your compression is < 85 psi on both rotors, or very uneven among faces of a particular rotor, then prepare for a rebuild. If not, you begin looking at other things causing your lack of power.

 

Compression on front rotor was fine, a bit about 70, not quite 80. Rear rotor didn't move one bit. We removed the engine last night. Have done anything else to it. I can provide pictures tomorrow if you need me to take one of a specific area. What should I do next?

 

What do you mean? If the rear rotor is blown (no compression), you need to rebuild or replace the engine.

 

The engine according to the PO was rebuilt 5000 miles ago, so would I need to necessarily rebuild the entire engine or just replace the rear rotor housing, rotor, and everything on that half? Or should I just redo it all while it's out?

 

Is there even any proof it was rebuilt?

All the soft seals will need to be replaced no matter what.
Other stuff is a matter of speccing it out, or deciding to just replace it all.

 

You're going to have to open the engine up to see if anything is damaged or out of spec. Soft seals are a must as pointed out. Check the 2nd gen archives for a video Aaron Cake just posted that details rebuilding.

 

K, I will look for it...the intermediate housing and the outside of the housing look clean, as if they have just been sandblasted while everything else has a bit of tarnish on it so I could see it being recently rebuilt but until I get inside we will have to see.... I just wish I was more mechanically inclined