What are people using for a clutch?
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What are people using for a clutch?
Hey I have an 87 gxl turbo running on 10 psi around 200-220 whp range. My exedy street/strip clutch is starting to slip and was wondering what other people might be using. Wanting something crazy like a 6 puck unsprung. Comment your recommendations! Thanks
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I use a dinner plate and vice grips for a clutch..very effective!
:P
Seriously though I just installed a Bully..
6 puck unsprung will be crap for street driving especially stop and go driving.Personally I would get a full face sprung disc if you are street driving the car.
By the way you only have submit a Thread ONCE...please
:P
Seriously though I just installed a Bully..
6 puck unsprung will be crap for street driving especially stop and go driving.Personally I would get a full face sprung disc if you are street driving the car.
By the way you only have submit a Thread ONCE...please
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I use a dinner plate and vice grips for a clutch..very effective! :P Seriously though I just installed a Bully.. 6 puck unsprung will be crap for street driving especially stop and go driving.Personally I would get a full face sprung disc if you are street driving the car. By the way you only have submit a Thread ONCE...please
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Chickens, of course! (farming joke)
ACT made the "Street/Strip" clutch, and Exedy makes the "Stage 1" and "Stage 2" clutches, so I think you may be mixing up the two. Anyway, all of them are good for over 300 lb-ft torque at the flywheel, so they are more than adequate for your car. If your clutch is slipping prematurely, then there was probably an installation error of some sort, and you should have a better mechanic install the next one. Also, make sure your foot is not resting on the clutch pedal when driving.
ACT made the "Street/Strip" clutch, and Exedy makes the "Stage 1" and "Stage 2" clutches, so I think you may be mixing up the two. Anyway, all of them are good for over 300 lb-ft torque at the flywheel, so they are more than adequate for your car. If your clutch is slipping prematurely, then there was probably an installation error of some sort, and you should have a better mechanic install the next one. Also, make sure your foot is not resting on the clutch pedal when driving.
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Chickens, of course! (farming joke) ACT made the "Street/Strip" clutch, and Exedy makes the "Stage 1" and "Stage 2" clutches, so I think you may be mixing up the two. Anyway, all of them are good for over 300 lb-ft torque at the flywheel, so they are more than adequate for your car. If your clutch is slipping prematurely, then there was probably an installation error of some sort, and you should have a better mechanic install the next one. Also, make sure your foot is not resting on the clutch pedal when driving.
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Chickens, of course! (farming joke) ACT made the "Street/Strip" clutch, and Exedy makes the "Stage 1" and "Stage 2" clutches, so I think you may be mixing up the two. Anyway, all of them are good for over 300 lb-ft torque at the flywheel, so they are more than adequate for your car. If your clutch is slipping prematurely, then there was probably an installation error of some sort, and you should have a better mechanic install the next one. Also, make sure your foot is not resting on the clutch pedal when driving.
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ACT or Exedy is your answer. I doubt you can go wrong with either. But it doesn't matter if they're abused, neither will last. Clutchs are simply wear items, not unlike brake pads and tires. I'm with Styx, nobody with any sense puts an unsprung puck clutch on a street-driven car unless it's making huge power. Which isn't the issue in your case.
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ACT or Exedy is your answer. I doubt you can go wrong with either. But it doesn't matter if they're abused, neither will last. Clutchs are simply wear items, not unlike brake pads and tires. I'm with Styx, nobody with any sense puts an unsprung puck clutch on a street-driven car unless it's making huge power. Which isn't the issue in your case.
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The Sports Car Club of America - Home
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Oh, so basically you are even more confused than I thought, lol. The SCCA has affordable driver training available in most major cities throughout the USA. In many cases you can go to an autocross event and get free tips from instructors. The Sports Car Club of America - Home
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Oh, so basically you are even more confused than I thought, lol. The SCCA has affordable driver training available in most major cities throughout the USA. In many cases you can go to an autocross event and get free tips from instructors. The Sports Car Club of America - Home
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FWIW, I've been using the ACT Street/Strip clutch and PP combination in my FD for several years...about 70k miles. Street driven with 2 or 3 seasons of autocross. IIRC, it's suppose to be good to around 400 hp. I'm well below that...probably around 350 hp. Only marginally heavier pedal feel. Basically I think it's just an OEM disc with a beefed up PP. Recently had the transmission out over the winter and everything still looks great. No complaints.
Not all that familiar with the FC, but on a side note....if your car was an FD I'd also suggest a new pilot bearing, throw-out bearing and maybe even a clutch fork and a rear transmission seal while you've got the transmission out for a new clutch. Especially if the car has seen abuse/heavy use.
Not all that familiar with the FC, but on a side note....if your car was an FD I'd also suggest a new pilot bearing, throw-out bearing and maybe even a clutch fork and a rear transmission seal while you've got the transmission out for a new clutch. Especially if the car has seen abuse/heavy use.
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There must be some type of driving school in your area. Also, I mean a racing driving school, not a noob driving school for teenagers, lol. Many parts of your car will last longer if you learn proper racing techniques, and as a bonus your times will be faster too.
You will get better answers to your questions if you enter a location into your user profile.
The Dual Friction clutch works great, but it MUST be installed by somebody who knows what he is doing. When installed improperly, the Dual Friction clutch will tear itself apart, especially on an RX-7. If you don't have a competent clutch mechanic in your area, then stick with ACT or Exedy. If you are racing, then you may want to consider Exedy because they tend to sponsor rotary car events.
Same for the FC, although I would check the fork before buying a new one.
You will get better answers to your questions if you enter a location into your user profile.
The Dual Friction clutch works great, but it MUST be installed by somebody who knows what he is doing. When installed improperly, the Dual Friction clutch will tear itself apart, especially on an RX-7. If you don't have a competent clutch mechanic in your area, then stick with ACT or Exedy. If you are racing, then you may want to consider Exedy because they tend to sponsor rotary car events.
Not all that familiar with the FC, but on a side note....if your car was an FD I'd also suggest a new pilot bearing, throw-out bearing and maybe even a clutch fork and a rear transmission seal while you've got the transmission out for a new clutch. Especially if the car has seen abuse/heavy use.
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FWIW, I've been using the ACT Street/Strip clutch and PP combination in my FD for several years...about 70k miles. Street driven with 2 or 3 seasons of autocross. IIRC, it's suppose to be good to around 400 hp. I'm well below that...probably around 350 hp. Only marginally heavier pedal feel. Basically I think it's just an OEM disc with a beefed up PP. Recently had the transmission out over the winter and everything still looks great. No complaints. Not all that familiar with the FC, but on a side note....if your car was an FD I'd also suggest a new pilot bearing, throw-out bearing and maybe even a clutch fork and a rear transmission seal while you've got the transmission out for a new clutch. Especially if the car has seen abuse/heavy use.
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Counterweights come up occasionally in the Parts For Sale sections, but some care should be taken to be sure you're getting the correct one for you're car. Otherwise places like MAZDTRIX sells both the CW and FW, along with the other components mentioned earlier to consiider changing while the transmission is out.
---> Flywheels (scroll down for counterweight info)
---> Flywheels (scroll down for counterweight info)
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