decline

Hi, I searched around a little but hadn't come across the specific answer I was looking for

My goal is to have a FD I can enjoy as my primary driver. I have a second car that can handle DD if/when repairs are needed. Eventually the car will be garaged as I don't plan on selling it..ever

I've been reading a lot on this topic an it seems the consensus is with a properly set up well maintained car this is possible
The question is, how do I get there?

my budget is around $15-17k
My power goals are anything from stock-300hp. I dont need crazy hp. I want this car for the curves (road/sheet metal)
The main reason I would buy or convert to a single turbo/v mount is to simplify the set-up an increase reliability

Let me know if these are even in the ballpark of what I should expect

option 1 - Buy a decent stock for less money to drive around knowing i'll have to have it rebuilt it at some point ? (10-12k? + money parts?)

option 2 - Get one thats shot for cheap and just have everything re-done(5-6k + rebuild?)

option 3 - Find one thats already modded/rebuilt by a reputable shop an hope it was not abused by the owner?(15-17k?)

gracer7-rx7

iTrader: (16)

All are options. Option 2 will cost you more than 5-6k though.

You could also add an option 4 where you look for a great low mileage car but then you are looking at around $20k

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

I vote for Option #1 or #4 (gracer7's). Option #2 will burn you out and make you hate the car. And #3 is too big of a crap-shoot IMO.
Doesn't have to be low low mileage, but something under say 75k. Know that even a well cared for FD will typically have a coolant seal failure around the 100k mark.
Many of the FDs "for sale" that I've seen personally, or that I've seen pictures of have indications that aftermarket parts were used by the owner but removed and replaced back to OEM. Things like intercoolers, intakes, coil-overs... even ECUs. Doesn't automatically make it a bad car to buy, but something to keep in mind when looking.
If you haven't already, read through the 3rd Gen. stickys...read everything. Like any other finicky 20yr old high-performance turbocharged sportscar with a non-traditional engine, buying an FD is all about avoiding as many surprises as possible. The more you know, the fewer surprises.

tokyo_drift

I'd go for option 1, that way, you know its clean to start with, and you dont risk a huge tanking on your investment. I have a '93, and personally, I love the '93 because of the lack of '93's in my area, so more unique

MATT-FD3S

go for stock imo, or a well maintained modded one

max0911

iTrader: (1)

I suggest you either go with a sotck one or an old one that you completly rebuild... you want the car to taste like new in my opinion

snapcaseacilec

iTrader: (3)

Notice there are tons of different views. Ultimately, the right choice to start with is yours.

$$$ will drain your pockets, and patience is needed with undertanding when you have issues arise with any 7, especially FDs.

Piston7

i have the same goal as you, i want to enjoy my rx7 when i do find one to purchase and after reading most of the sticky, i would go with option one. not sure how much you know about rotary but i learned alot from reading the 3rd gen sticky. From what to do for realiability to crazy engine built such as porting and so on. one guy stripped down the engine himself and sent it out to get ported with new apex seal. that alone already cost a couple thousand so option 2 isnt even close in price range to get the car going. plus its just not a simple engine built, you still got cooling system, fuel system, gauges, engine management etc to make the car realiable. but like the guy above me said, it comes down to you cause everyone has there own option.

decline

Thanks for the advice, I can see that opinions are split on this. I've been reviewing each car on a case by case basis. Mostly looking for good maintance on a clean car.
At one point i was leaning towards option 2, and i was looking into a LS swap, but that seems dicey. so Im back to looking for a clean lowish miles stocker or rebuilt/mild mod FD

Jake33

LS swap...why?

Limuel90

I'd probably look for a lower mileage car. But however, you might need a bit of a bigger budget to find a nice and decent one.

godfather2112

Id go for option 2. Thats my plan!

Kawshus

Option 2 Sir, you would get the options of what to have done to the car. Also if any upgrades you'd like.

Option 1 if you'd like to gradually bring it up. Make it your own project.

decline

Question, Have any FDs ever made it to 102k miles with out a rebuild?
I found a super clean 93. Like barely a scratch on it, hardley any wear on the interior.
But its got 102k miles, there asking $13.9 but I bet i could get it for a couple g's less than that

bgeiger

I have a 93 FD that I bought new which I'm just getting back into shape as a DD now that the kids are out of daycare, so I have similar decisions to make. Here is what I've learned which you may find helpful.

First, you must accept the fact that the FD is an old car, but is not collectable, so any $$$ you put into the car is not going to significantly increase it's value especially if it's a DD. Cars are a bad investment, so it's kind of like going to a casino: decide beforehand how much you are willing to lose.

I would recommend option 1, but make sure the compression is good and there are no oil leaks. Then perform the reliability mods which would slightly increase power, but not require ECU tuning. Properly maintained, you should be able to put off a motor rebuild indefinitely, but have the $$$ socked away just in case (buy a high dividend stock at let it sit for that rainy day.) This is the strategy I'm taking. I seriously considered trading the FD in for something newer, but there is really nothing out there that compares to the FD (IMO) unless I was willing to drop $30+G. So I decided to use a fraction of that money to maintain and upgrade.

Remember that there's other things that will need to be replaced other than the motor, and depending on where you live there may not be a competent Rx7 mechanic for many miles, so I recommend planning on doing a lot of maintenance yourself, and batching up your fixes for your mechanic, and be more proactive in replacing old parts to keep it running reliably.

I don't think you'll save any $$$ in the long run with option 2, and there is a greater risk for a big $$$ fix and it will take longer to get it to be your DD.

Option 3 could work, but I would think cars of this caliber would be more than 15-17K, which you should be able to get privately for a low miles-well maintained stock FD.

bgeiger

IMO compression numbers are more important than miles for the motor. You just don't know if those 102k miles were leisurely or the car has been thrashed. Make sure you have someone competent do your compression test, as engine RPM is VERY important when reading the numbers, as I recently found out. Lower cranking RPM results in lower compression #s. I think there's a chart in the FSM. I recently had a local Mazda service department do a compression test as part of diagnosing a cold starting problem, and they must have screwed something up because the numbers were even across all cambers but low (4s), and they couldn't tell me what the engine RPM was for the test. But they wanted me to have them do a rebuild. Turned out I had a failing starter motor (they missed it, I diagnosed myself) which resulted in low cranking RPMs, and low compressions numbers. Replaced it myself.

Topgun63

I am about to list my 1994 Rx-7 on ebay. 3 adult owners, never raced, wrecked or abused. I purchased from the 2nd owner, a friend of mine, and was purchased new by a NASA engineer. I am 48 years old and have too many cars. I need space in the shop to restore a 63 MGB that I have had for years. My 911 serves as my weekend car. This car looks and drives like new. It has 112K on the body and 20K on a factory motor installed by Rotary Performance in Dallas. During the motor swap, they upgraded the clutch, radiator, coolant overflow, Brembo rotors and new pads, silicone vacuum lines. I have receipts for over 9K for the work. If you are interested in seeing pictures, send your e.mail address and I will send photos I took this weekend. The color is white with tan leather. The only wear on the interior is the driver's side bolster, very minimal. It has an upgraded Sony head unit and speakers. I am asking $14,500.

Farkel

iTrader: (19)

Although I suspect that this is merely sensationalism, if you really wanted to keep a car forever, it would be prudent to invest in its justification. Meaning you should buy the best possible car now. The foundation is important and you can't polish a turd. If you buy a car that isn't quite the right combo or color, for example, chances are you definitely won't be keeping it forever.

TheDarkSide

iTrader: (3)

Buy one with minor mods that is in good condition, learn to work on the car and take your time modding. The more knowledge you have the easier it will be to maintain.

blackbooost

option 1 or option 3... you want to ask as many questions as you can, don't shy away. Like another member said the more you know the lesser surprises, and be vigilant when looking at the car's engine bay. Look for any type of smoke at idle/acceleration/whenever.

Poker Player

If your on a budget, buy the best used car that you can using this method...
1st. Must buy the year, model, and stock color that you want... Buy anything else and you won't be happy. You'll always think, "I really wanted....."
2nd. Must not have ever been in a wreck...
3rd. Running car... A car that sits, will sit for what seems forever... On a budget really makes it hard to find money to get it running... And lastly, options on the car. This is where you have to decide if the car is what you want... I like, A/C, stock power windows and mirrors. As for keeping if forever, not likely, but you might keep it for a few years...

Whitetiger777

iTrader: (1)

Bit off topic, but if you're looking at the one in Studio City, I test drove it. The sales guy told me he starts it up every morning until it stops smoking. Also they were having problems with the ignition key not being able to turn. I think it's going to be a problem car so I walked away from it.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Many N/A rotories go well beyond the 100,000 mile mark... some pushing 200,000 and beyond. But ALL FDs were turbocharged. With forced induction comes heat. With heat comes stress, particularly coolant seals. From my own experience and informal accounting of others posts, an otherwise well maintained FD will have a failure around 100,000. Some will go beyond that. Others, like mine, will go around 90k.
There are things like auxillary injection that have become more widely used over the last decade, and hold promise of extending the life of the 13bREW by removing alot of that heats-stress. There's an auxillary injection section in this forum whose stickys are worth a read.

JRCRX7

All options are good. Myself i like to know exactly what and how the mods have been done when i get a car. i also enjoy the work of installing the mods. Either way you choose will cost alot of money. if you want the reliable car to drive, go with the stock low miles even with no mods it is still an excellent care to drive.

RexJunkie13

I'm in the exact same position as you are looking for an Fd to buy. I'd go with option 3.