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Vaccuum problems Odd power loss TII S5

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Old 03-19-09, 05:47 PM
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Vaccuum problems Odd power loss TII S5

Hi I have posted before about the problem I have been having with my S5 turbo II Got the tps and idle all sorted now, but one problem I am having still remains I am leaning towards a vaccuum line in the wrong position my mistake when I rebuilt the engine I have a UK spec car and I have 5 solenoids on my solinoid rack coloured

Green throws code 35 when unplugged
Grey throws 32 when unplugged
Orange throws 25 when unplugged
Blue throws 31 when unlplugged
and another blue which is waste gate control solenoid throwing code 42 when unplugged

The problem I am having is all of the solenoids I have accounted for except the green on and code 35 I cant find any reference to it on code explanations also it seems to be connected to the Pressure regulator as well as the orange solenoid

Does anyone have any clue what this I assume only on UK models does this green solenoid do? I think it is causing my problem of loss of power beyond 5k rpm just stutters beyond that under load free revs out of gear I am thinking this is wehere I messed up my vac lines as I am assuming it is some sort of dual or three stage pressure system as it seems more complicated than the systems in my USA FSM

I may be wrong if I am please call me on it any help would be much appreciated as this problem is driving me crazy! Oh and thanks for bearing with my long winded post!
Old 03-20-09, 04:41 PM
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US and Japanese S5 TIIs only have 4 solenoids, so I don't know what this extra one is. But I can tell you that the pressure regulator solenoid is not exactly necessary. People that remove all emissions equipment simply hook the pressure regulator up to a vacuum source directly. You might try bypassing both solenoids and see how it reacts.
Old 03-22-09, 04:13 PM
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Thanks

Hey thanks for that I spent the weekend doing the vaccuum lines with silicone hose looks a million bucks matched with my body colour made it all worth the struggling and fustration it caused me I had read a lot of write ups about how fiddly and how much patience is needed to do it but it really is an understated job it is horrible!
That said I put everything back together and took her for a drive today and it is still the same, bouncy idle not the TPS as I have done this with my multimeter and still there.
Clutching at straws now but the only thing I remember during building the engine was the new injector grommets I got from the company that ceaned my injectors were too small but leaving the injector a bit loose so I am going to ring Mazda in the morning and see what the dammage for a set of propper sized grommets is to eliminate any other vaccuum leaks.
If it is still a problem I may have a play with putting a vac line straight onto the pressure regulator
One thing I did notice when doing the vac lines is the pressure regulator has two vac lines on it like it is two stage or something, both of these lines traced back to this mystery solenoid
I cant beleive there is such a big fuel system variation fitted to uk cars ad not documented in any FSM that I can get my grubby mitts onto.

The car is a Cabriolet BTW I does this make a difference???
Old 03-23-09, 01:36 PM
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Undersized injector grommets could defintely cause a big enough vacuum leak to make the idle bounce, but it should have little effect on power. Does it bog or feel like it runs out of fuel?

For the fuel pressure regulator / solenoid setup, you can always buy a US-spec secondary rail (& FPR) and hook it up like the manual shows. I can't see the purpose of 2 vac lines and 2 solenoids for the FPR anyway.
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