Using ATF on Apex seals
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Using ATF on Apex seals
So I'm getting compression from the rear rotor but not as much from the front one
I can't ge in there to look so I'm going to assume the seals are simply stuck. Ive read a fair bit abou using ATF to get them unstuck but never consistently in where to pour it in from or even how much.
Do I pour a couple ounces into the rotor housing via the leading spark plug and crank it over to let the atf do its thing? I've read of letting the rotor soak in it but I can't really tell if it is or is t cause I don't gave a mirror small enough to fit in between the engine and fender. Can I just go outside every thirty minutes and spend a couple minutes cranking it over for a day?
I'm assuming ATf is automatic trans fluid too, right?
I can't ge in there to look so I'm going to assume the seals are simply stuck. Ive read a fair bit abou using ATF to get them unstuck but never consistently in where to pour it in from or even how much.
Do I pour a couple ounces into the rotor housing via the leading spark plug and crank it over to let the atf do its thing? I've read of letting the rotor soak in it but I can't really tell if it is or is t cause I don't gave a mirror small enough to fit in between the engine and fender. Can I just go outside every thirty minutes and spend a couple minutes cranking it over for a day?
I'm assuming ATf is automatic trans fluid too, right?
#2
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It worked
In Dec. I was giving a S4 motor and trans. Its in a trailer in a cold barn where it is being stored. 2 weeks ago I got a comp. tester and I used a syringe and some clear tubing, injected 1/2 oz atf in each lower plug hole, then hand turned several rotations. came back two nights later and hooked a battery up to the starter got 5pulses of about 55psi. weak battery and cold night I would say less then 60 RPM for test. I added an oz. to both rotors and spun some more till bat needed charge. Next night, with somewhat better battery voltage. Spun it again and got 6 pulses around 60 to 65 psi. ( still less than 100 RPM)Seems a side seal loosened up and seated. Any guess what this could mean if it was warmed up and spun at 250 RPM?
Last edited by HRnico; 03-16-12 at 05:12 PM.
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So I'm getting compression from the rear rotor but not as much from the front one
I can't ge in there to look so I'm going to assume the seals are simply stuck. Ive read a fair bit abou using ATF to get them unstuck but never consistently in where to pour it in from or even how much.
Do I pour a couple ounces into the rotor housing via the leading spark plug and crank it over to let the atf do its thing? I've read of letting the rotor soak in it but I can't really tell if it is or is t cause I don't gave a mirror small enough to fit in between the engine and fender. Can I just go outside every thirty minutes and spend a couple minutes cranking it over for a day?
I'm assuming ATf is automatic trans fluid too, right?
I can't ge in there to look so I'm going to assume the seals are simply stuck. Ive read a fair bit abou using ATF to get them unstuck but never consistently in where to pour it in from or even how much.
Do I pour a couple ounces into the rotor housing via the leading spark plug and crank it over to let the atf do its thing? I've read of letting the rotor soak in it but I can't really tell if it is or is t cause I don't gave a mirror small enough to fit in between the engine and fender. Can I just go outside every thirty minutes and spend a couple minutes cranking it over for a day?
I'm assuming ATf is automatic trans fluid too, right?
when you feel you might be gaining , charge the batt full and try your compression test again. If the exhaust is off you should be able to line the apex up with the port and push it with your finger both sides , It should move with a reasonable amount of pressure . If you cant move it then it is stuck. DON"t force it carry on and oil it again and turn .
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With my extreme patience...
I went out and started the RX-7 up... and it fired up!!
It idle's horribly... barely stays running (and sometimes dies). Not sure if bad fuel, old oil or blown rotor. Imma let it sit for the day and see how it feels later this evening.
I went out and started the RX-7 up... and it fired up!!
It idle's horribly... barely stays running (and sometimes dies). Not sure if bad fuel, old oil or blown rotor. Imma let it sit for the day and see how it feels later this evening.
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If you think it is bad fuel drain the tank and add five gallons of new and change the filter , if you think it's bad oil change it .AND do a compression test . We can't fix it for you you need to help yourself . All we can do is guide you to some of the regular things to check Change your plugs at least check them and check the wires . check vacuum hoses for leaks . You never did tell us what car or engine you have . Take your time and do a proper job on there things . A rotary is not to be rush through when you are learning . maybe a short movie of the engine running will show something you are missing .
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If you think it is bad fuel drain the tank and add five gallons of new and change the filter , if you think it's bad oil change it .AND do a compression test . We can't fix it for you you need to help yourself . All we can do is guide you to some of the regular things to check Change your plugs at least check them and check the wires . check vacuum hoses for leaks . You never did tell us what car or engine you have . Take your time and do a proper job on there things . A rotary is not to be rush through when you are learning . maybe a short movie of the engine running will show something you are missing .
Ask and thou shalt receive!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KfNl8...9IHqHgOIUl8LA=
It's a 1984 with a 12A
Plugs were changed, wires weren't. Fuel is 18 months old but had stabilizer put in. I think the front rotor has a stuck apex seal hence the need for ATF. That's my best guess atm
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Carb cleaner in through the intake, spark plug and exhaust ports works way better than ATF. ATF isn't really designed to dissolve carbon, carb cleaner is. Plus ATF will attack the rubber found in the engine, especially the oil o-rings. Carb cleaner is usually rubber safe if it's the stuff designed to be sprayed in while the engine is running. Diesel fuel also works very well to dissolve carbon.
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Carb cleaner in through the intake, spark plug and exhaust ports works way better than ATF. ATF isn't really designed to dissolve carbon, carb cleaner is. Plus ATF will attack the rubber found in the engine, especially the oil o-rings. Carb cleaner is usually rubber safe if it's the stuff designed to be sprayed in while the engine is running. Diesel fuel also works very well to dissolve carbon.
How much carb cleaner do I put in the carb and spark plug ports?
If I get my friend to hold the idle at 2000rpm can I pour diesel down the carb as long as I don't stall out the engine? Or should I stick to the kind you spray while the engine is running?
Will I notice pretty immediate improvement if I do it while the engine is running? Or do i stick to putting a shot glass worth in the spark plug hole?
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Seafoamed the car, it started smoking within seconds of pouring it down the carb. I let it sit for ten minutes then drove it around the block. Got a bit more smoke but nothing like the videos online. Did I do something wrong?
I had my roommate hold the throttle as best as he could at 2k rpm while I poured a third of a can down the carb
Also, my idle speed screw is seized. Crap so I couldn't adjust that up. I think next is fresh fuel and fresh fuel filter. I suppose when I take tr carb off the fix the idle screw I can also check te fuel pressure to know if I need a new fuel pump?
I had my roommate hold the throttle as best as he could at 2k rpm while I poured a third of a can down the carb
Also, my idle speed screw is seized. Crap so I couldn't adjust that up. I think next is fresh fuel and fresh fuel filter. I suppose when I take tr carb off the fix the idle screw I can also check te fuel pressure to know if I need a new fuel pump?
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MMO is just "wax mud". Just wax mixed with a few solvents. Totally useless.
Don't pour stuff down the carb. You need to get the cleaner into the engine, and let it sit for a day or two. Just get a can of carb cleaner and hose it into the spark plug holes. Rotate the engine a few turns, then repeat until the can is empty. If you can get it in through the exhaust ports directly on the apex seals, so much the better. Then let it sit.
Don't pour stuff down the carb. You need to get the cleaner into the engine, and let it sit for a day or two. Just get a can of carb cleaner and hose it into the spark plug holes. Rotate the engine a few turns, then repeat until the can is empty. If you can get it in through the exhaust ports directly on the apex seals, so much the better. Then let it sit.