_Bigwormfab

Hmm, now that I think about it, the fuse cover did say EGI COMP. I don't really know what could be wired wrong considering I didn't do any modifications to the harness except swapping the clips for the injectors. What could make the computer work without the fuse??? Strange

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

Sounds like its running on 1 rotor.

_Bigwormfab

I did pull the plugs and notice fuel (black) on the two front plugs but not the back two... Maybe injectors are still clogged from sitting? Doesn't black fuel on the plugs entail the plugs are fouled?

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

Possibly, or #2 primary injector not firing at all.

Disconnect power to coils

Pull off your UIM

Zip tie your primary injectors to the fuel rail.

Remove fuel rail/injector assembly

Have someone turn the car over and watch the injectors. Make sure both are firing. If not, you obviously have an injector problem or a wiring problem.

Also as stated above, which injectors are you using? You need to make sure you have the right impedance injectors. I believe your injectors should be the 19550-2020s

satch

iTrader: (1)

The coils have a Black/Yellow wire (lead has one and trailing has 2). This wire should have voltage w/key to on but not key to the off position. There is a Green check connector plug near the lead coil which has 4 wires and the plug is connected to nothing. One of the wires is Black/white. This wire should have voltage w/key to on and no voltage w/key to off. The B/W wire receives power from the Comp fuse and it is this wire which powers the ECU. (The B/Y wires are powered by the INJ fuse). Thus in recap the B/W wire has voltage w/key to on but not w/key to off and this is with the Comp fuse plugged in. W/the fuse pulled the B/W wire should not have voltage in either the on or off position.

_Bigwormfab

Will try this after work today... I'm using the injectors that came with the engine. So they would be stock s5 turbo injectors. 550cc? I am unsure. I keep seeing/getting mixed responses about the injector impedance. Some say it matters some say it doesn't. I don't fully understand what impedance is or what the different is between high and low. Also I'm not sure if it matters, I'm using coils from an s5 not s4. Does this effect anything or are they the same series to series

DC5Daniel

iTrader: (10)

At the end of the day, all the FC ECUs need to see HIGH impedance at the ECU (roughly 12-14ohms per injector). 86-early 88 used low impedance injectors with a resistor box, yielding the high impedance load seen by the ECU. Late 88 and up cars ditched the resistor box and just had high impedance injectors.

In closing, the easiest way to tell what's going on is simply metering the injector leads directly at the ECU.

_Bigwormfab

So the high impedance injectors that are in there now will ultimately work because I don't have the resistor box, right? Or am I wrong in assuming that. Also I have a multimeter but haven't really toyed around with it much as i don't really know too much about electronics. Am I testing the injector wires that go into the ecu?

DC5Daniel

iTrader: (10)

Yes and yes.

Your high impedance injectors with no resistor box is correct.

If you wanted to check anyway, you will set your meter to ohms (Greek symbol omega) and probe the injector wires directly at the ECU. Satch has posted the wiring colors and pin locations many times if you don't want to search the factory service manual.

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

Check your injectors with a volt meter. Put it on resistance (ohms). if you see 12-15 theyre high, if you see anything significantly lower theyre low. or you could just read the number on the injector.

_Bigwormfab

Okay so I tested my injectors and both are firing good. Made sure they are the right injectors and they are infact 19550 2020s.

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

Double check plug wires and coil wiring.

Check compression.

Since you dont know where this engine came from, youll need to verify the marks on the main pulley. Once you verified theyre correct, check timing.

_Bigwormfab

Okay. Gonna get new plugs because I think these are fouled (black fuel means fouled correct?) I've never had to do a compression test or test timing before as this is all very new to me. Don't you need a special tool or device to check both of these things? Also timing is set through the CAS correct?

Thanks

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

Just get new plugs anyways. Get BUR9EQP for all 4.

Compression checkers are 20 bucks at oreilly. get one. Remove the schrader valve from the bottom of the hose. Remove spark plug wires. pick a rotor housing. take out one plug. screw in the comp checker. have someone turn over the car. watch for 3 eeven bounces over 85psi. repeat for the other rotor housing.

Check timing with a timing light. Jump the green connector specified in the FSM. Hook timing light to L1. Shine it on your pulley. Adjust CAS accordingly.

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

_Bigwormfab

Well bad news, the front rotor has good compression around 90 psi, but unfortunately the back isn't going any higher then around 30 psi. What needs to be done at this point? Are the apex seals toast?

lduley

iTrader: (1)

Sadly, you may need to take it back out unless the housing is so washed of gas it is giving you low #'s, still, it should at least keep running on the front rotor, so don't yank it out yet. Get some MMO in the chambers and let them sit and see if you can break some carbon free, then try again

_Bigwormfab

Sorry, what exactly is MMO?

_Bigwormfab

Also, I have constant power after the key is turned even after turned off and pulled out. Only way to shut it off is to unhook the battery

DC5Daniel

iTrader: (10)

That would be Marvel Mystery Oil. Some people use automatic transmission fluid.

_Bigwormfab

Gotcha. Just put it in the spark plug holes with a funnel or what?

FührerTüner

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, id put some in and spin it over a few times. If youre lucky its just a stuck seal

you could also try pull starting it if that doesnt work.

_Bigwormfab

Alright I'll give it a shot. Worst case scenario, what kind of rebuild kit would I have to get

lduley

iTrader: (1)

You'll never know until you tear it apart and check everything. Sometimes you can rebuild for $500, other times 1k+

If everything is staying on even when you turn the key off, it sounds like your ignition is wore out and needs to be replaced.

Try the MMO, pour some in, turn over by hand, rinse and repeat until your confidant that both the rotors are covered. Let it sit for a week (good time to take a breather from it and compose yourself) and during that week, keep turning the engine over by hand, end of the week, pull start it (drop clutch in 2nd gear) and see what happens. If it fires, keep it running the best you can by feathering the pedal for about 5 mins (obvisouly have someone else there looking for leaks and checking fluids) and then see if it will idle on its own. If it does, awesome, compression test it again just so you know

Now if it starts and sounds like a cammed v8 and never changes, the rear rotor is more than likely dead

satch

iTrader: (1)

Was it not pointed out earlier that you possibly had an electrical issue. Since that point was made how much time have you expensed figuring out whether that was the case or not. Is the answer zero?