Trouble starting after s5 t2 swap into s4 na
 

Hey everyone! I've been messing with my 7 to try and get it started lately as my swap is complete. S5 t2 into s4 na convertible. I'm using all s4 electronics and the na harness with n327 convertible ecu. Emissions deleted. Didn't swap front covers because I deleted the omp. The car cranks and barely turns over. And when I say barely I mean I can only hear slight little burps and pops from the exhaust. I have spark, my fuel pump is working properly so I have fuel. Any ideas where to go from here? This swap was a big learning experience for me as I went into with only little knowledge of rotaries and I'm at the point where I'm kinda stuck. Any input would be great!

Thanks!

just because your fuel pump is working doesn't mean your getting fuel to the injectors

If your hearing spits and sputters it sounds to me like it flooded, check your plugs

another possibility, what year s4? if your using the s5 injectors and have a fuel resistor still hooked up that would mess with things.

Another question, did you HEAR this engine run before you put it in? or going off of word of mouth?

Unfortunately, I'm going off word of mouth. Got the engine from
a place like japantola that's sells jdm engines. It's a 1988 convertible. I kept the s5 injectors just swapped the injector clips from the s5 harness onto my na harness. Is that right? Also I unhooked a fuel line to check if it was pumping fuel and it was, but that's as far as I went with checking fuel.. I am also unsure about the fuel resistor. (Where it is or even what it does) how can you check if it's flooded? Thanks for your input and quick reply btw :icon_tup:

The turbo fuel feed and return lines are opposite of an NA. Make sure you have them correct.

I have made sure if this. Made sure of this after reinstalling fuel lines after vacuum cluster removal

That ECU is an N/A Ecu so even if you do get it going you will run into problems.
You need an N333 or N332 ECU.They are the S4 Turbo units.

Also any engine that has been sitting has bad injectors. Get them tested/cleaned.

CAS in the correct location?

What if you spray some fuel into the intake. Does it run?

Best way to clean injectors? If the CAS was never removed, could it still be in the wrong position? I'm going to try spraying some fuel in the intake like you said for the time being to see if it gets any further. I just swapped this motor and have never seen or heard it run before

Professionally cleaned. And the CAS would not need to be adjusted if it was in the factory setting.

send your injectors to a professional shop that can clean an flow test them for you. Fuel Injection Repair in Hellertown, Pennsylvania with Reviews & Ratings - YP.com call some local shops to see if they can help or tell you who can.
s4 resistor pack is behind passenger headlight area, little metal box about 4"x2" just google image s4 fc3s resistor pack and get an idea.
I ran my 6 port turbo 88 vert with the stock N327 for a short time to just get the car running. not recommended but it worked for me just saying, now I have a rtek 1.7

I don't have the fuel resistor. I swapped in the n333 ecu that I just bought and it turns over a little further than before but still not all the way. Plugs have fuel on them does this mean it's flooded? Also, now that I think about it, it is possible I mixed up the plugs for the injectors after swapping the clips..

could be flooded.
Also could have the injector wiring mixed to.
IF I remember correctly I said something stupid in one of Satch's posts where he says the color code..I recall..GWBR...
(look up Key word GEWBER Misterstyx69 on advanced search)

Here..try this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...clips-1038207/

Thanks for the info misterstyx69 (and satch for info on the other thread)! I got her to start up tonight briefly after putting the injector plugs in the right location. Unfortunately now I can't get it to start again, now I actually think it's flooded. I smell lots of gas. Regular unflooding procedures for an non-running engine? Thanks again everyone, my heart is happy tonight :nod:nod::nod::nod::nod:

Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.
(thanks to Kevin)

Awesome thank you, will do this after work tonight and see what happens... As for after the start up and I get it to run and idle good enough, do I need to take it somewhere to get tuned or anything? I figured no because the stock ecu isn't adjustable. Just making sure...

No you'll be fine

Okay, so I got home and went to unflood the engine using the steps on that link and it started up right away without the egi fuse in. So I turned the key off and repeated and it didn't turn on but almost. And then repeat again and the car starts. So I put the egi fuse back in to see if it will start, nothing. Just slight burps. Then I tried again without the egi and it starts up again. It won't hold idle on its own and will die if you let it go below 1500rpms. Noticed my dash lights flickering a little (I was jumping
The car). Ideas?

When you get the car to start with no fuse, have you let it continue to run? It should die shortly on its own.

Do you have the option of connecting the car to a power supply or tethered to a second vehicle to stabilize voltage in case you've got a failing alternator or dying battery? You might be fighting two issues at once.

Yes both times it started without the egi I let it run and it did die shortly after maybe a minute of running. I had the car hooked up to my daily because the battery died last night from trying to unflood

A full minute of running with no EGI is a looooong time....normally when installing a fuel pump "kill switch", the car will die within seconds when already running. This sounds like flooding only previously experienced by Noah when he built the ark...

There are two EGI fuses on an S4 , so which one are you pulling?

Lol:lol: the video I have is 42 seconds long and it runs for about 40, sorry for the slight exaggeration. Used gas pedal to keep it running. Stayed steady at 3k, I don't have the exhaust on yet currently just open down pipe

Pulled the one closest to the motor

That should be the Comp fuse (30 amps) which powers the ECU. Unless the ECU is powered then the car should not be able to run thus you likely have something wired up incorrectly.