anthology1987

I should probably just replace it, but;

I need to verify what numbers i should be looking for when testing my TPS with an Ohm meter. The website i was able to find was http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=58&co=1&vi=1 but i want be sure. (The reason is that for some reason my A-C connection @ WOT is registering below 1K)

RXSpeed16

iTrader: (41)

Those are the correct numbers from the factory service manual. Make sure the car is up to temp before checking/adjusting the TPS. Links to electronic copies of the FSM are linked in the FAQ's at top of the generation specific technical forums.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

The easier way to set the TPS is to stick one electrode on pin A, and the other on battery ground. Adjust to 1.0V exactly with a warm engine.

tegheim

I have problems with my S4-Turbo. I suspect the TPS a little and whant's to check it out with the Multi-meter. BUT, there is no way that I could get my engine hot, because it doesn't run propely.
Also I can't see any pictures of the connector on any FAQ so I don't know which spadeconnector I should messarue at.

I have these numbers, but they are HOT numbers, and also, as I said, I don't know which is A,B or C on the connector.

http://howto.globalvicinity.com/gv_w...i=58&co=1&vi=1
S4 TPS Resistance Check
A to B
Idle: 0.90 - 1k
WOT: 4k to 6k
A to C
Idle: 4k to 6k
WOT: 2k to 3k

Is there any other way to set the TPS as proper as possibly at an cold engine?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You can also disengage the cold start cam if you can't warm up the vehicle.

tegheim

Sorry, but have no idea what that means... Disengage the cold start cam?!
I'm from sweden you know

anthology1987

I was able to adjust my TPS using the "1v method" using my afcNeo and it really made things so much easier, even though i think i should still replace it due to it never staying in the right position (it always wants to fluctuate by .5-1 volt away from the 1v mark)
in the process, i also noticed that the intake readings from my afc tuner was showing major fluctuations at certain rpm ranges so i went ahead and checked my MAF with an ohm meter. the readings showed that the sensor was fine, but running out of options and the car still running really bad weather warmed up or not i decided to swap it out with a spare MAF that I had gotten in a bulk deal (wich by the way did not pass the ohm testing) and now the car runs like a champ!
now its on to fixin the next thing wanting to break! lol

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The cold start cam is located on the rear of the throttle body. It is a thermowax which holds the throttles slightly open during warmup. There is a little cam that is pushed by a pin to accomplish this.