rotarycal

Just to be sure this is the TPS, correct?

TPS -- The orange being the sensor, and the red being the adjusting screw?

Question: I'm not exactly sure which wires to use.

These are the wires that are found on the TPS. -- TPS Wires

(looking over from the passenger's side)
Black line indicates prongs are connected
Circles closets to line = top wires, farthest = bottom wires
Big circle = base colour, smaller circle within = stripe colour

I played around a bit. I back probed with paper clips and measured resistance on the green/red wire (left side of photo). At idle it was reading 1.4xx ohms, while at WOT it was 0.xxx ohms. I'm not lying lol. I can always triple check tomorrow.

I read in the FSM that the S5 has a throttle position auto-adjust system, however I do not see it taking effect.

It's a bit of a nuisance to have a high idle. I'm afraid my neighborhood might file a complaint. It's really loud, especially since it's idling at 3000 RPM.

I'm not too sure if it's the accelerated warm up. I let it idle for a while, but it still stayed at 3k. I drove it around the block and it managed to stay at 1-1.5k when in gear, but when I got back and let it idle, it hit 3k again.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Red/Green wire w/key to on and engine as hot as it can possibly get should read 1 volt.. This is not causing your high idle though. Could be throttle cable or cruise control cable or timing or the warmup system or sticky throttle plates or AFM flapper is stuck open too much etc.

rotarycal

Well here is what I got from back probing the green/red wire (black probe was on negative terminal). This is my third time checking, I guess my eyes were deceiving me and it's actually reading nothing lol.

DMM reading
...Maybe I have it on the wrong setting? I'd prefer not to invest in a voltmeter since I got this DMM on sale. I grounded

Now that you speak of cruise control, I just drove it around the block a few times. For some reason my speedometer isn't working, it only toggles between 20-30. I'll get that fixed, no biggie.

But when I'm in gear 3, which is roughly 35-40mph (residential) for me, the car feels like it's cruising when I don't press the gas pedal. I'll let it roll in 3, not pressing the gas, and the speed feels the same. It doesn't slow down at all, no matter how long the stretch is. So weird, I checked the cruise control, which wasn't toggled on. Although, I'm not so sure how it works, but I definitely didn't see anything of it being on.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Did you check the throttle cable? Did you have the key to on when checking the voltage on the G/R wire of the TPS? If the TPS isn't receiving voltage via the Brown wire then it cannot possibly have any output voltage.

rotarycal

Nope, I didn't check the throttle cable. I do not know where it is exactly

I had the key set to ON. Back probed a paper clip into the green/red and attached the red probe to the paper clip, used the black probe on the neg battery terminal. I set my DMM to the ohm symbol, and that was what I got: 0.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You were asked to check for voltage and not ohms!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! They are completely two different animals. You never check for ohms w/key to on. Never!!!!!!!!!!! You can damage the circuitry by doing so. Also, no need to use paperclips, just shove the meter lead into the back of the TPS plug. DC voltage is what the meter needs to be set to. The throttle cable would connected to the throttle body such as to the back of it. The FSM is supposed to be your friend and not your enemy..

rotarycal

oops :/ ...

So just to make sure I'm taking the right steps...
1. Warm up car
2. Probe green/red wire with red test lead, black lead goes onto negative battery terminal(?)
3. Set key to ON
4. Set DMM to DC mA (t'is what is says to measure DC in the DMM manual)
5. Check for 1 volt at idle?
6. At WOT it should sweep to 5?

I only back probed with paper clips because there's insulation not allowing the lead to be inserted.

I also read the fix in the FSM, but it was with a voltmeter, so I got stumped as to how to work around it with a DMM.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

a DMM is a Digital MULTI meter
..meaning you can measure:
VOLTS.
AMPS(current)
and OHMS(resistance)

DC mA is Current(AMPS)..and that is Milli amps so it is small amounts of current..
you want DC V....Key ON.

marclong

iTrader: (1)

DC voltage is the setting like the one in this picture

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

and as mentioned you're wasting time on the TPS with the idle hung up at 3k. the TPS is not going to cause ANY car to idle that high, it may affect idle to a very small degree if it is within reasonable range and below 1500 rpms.

you need to figure out what is hung up and causing the idle to be so high before spending time on anything else.

i suspect it is either a tight throttle cable or a stuck open thermowax.

rotarycal

http://i42.tinypic.com/315h4cm.jpg

This is the throttle cable, yes?

And just to make sure (for future reference), this is the setting I should have it on to adjust my TPS?

http://i40.tinypic.com/2q8sefl.jpg


When I check the throttle cable or thermowax (other than it possibly being stuck open as said), what issues I be looking for on them?

rotarycal

So, I'm pretty sure it is the throttle cable. I was adjusting it, and the idle seemed to go down. I accidentally adjusted it too much that it dropped drastically below 1k and died on me.

I'm not too sure how much to adjust it by, I just read posts saying do it by feel. The line felt slack when I gave it a small touch nonetheless, it didn't feel tight at all. When I was adjusting the idle, smoke was coming out of throttle body area. Nothing heavy, it resembled more of a light steam coming off of a hot cup of coffee. I'm pretty sure I did something or wasn't suppose to do what I did :/

..But which way do I adjust to lower idle? I wasn't paying exact attention. I'm a one man army, so I had to run back and forth between the throttle cable and RPM gauge to check where it's going. Counter clock wise, or clock wise?

..IF I somehow magically took the right steps, do I adjust it so it sits right at 750? Or do I go a bit higher, then adjust the TPS?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The air adjust screw on top of the engine should lower the idle when tightened. 750-800 rpm is good. You should also ground the initial set coupler before making idle adjustments and this step is very necessary (prevents BAC from making adjustments to your adjustments). There should br slack in the throttle cable.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

that's the cruise control cable but apparently it was the problem. follow satch's advice for setting the base idle with the air bleed screw now on the throttle body.

then you can test the TPS with the engine warm with the setting you have the DMM on, but it should not be dropping to 0v with the throttle open, it should be more in the 4.6v range, if it does drop to 0 then you have a bad TPS. throttle closed should be 1v.

rotarycal

I didn't adjust the cruise control cable to an ideal range yet. Should I fix it first before proceeding to satch's fix?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

neither of the cables on the rear of the throttle body should be holding up the throttle, they both should have a small amount of slack. use the idle air screw to raise the idle if it drops too far once the slack is removed. unscrew the bleed screw counterclockwise to raise the idle.

rotarycal

Just to make sure, the air bleed screw is directly on top of the throttle body? The screw I was looking at requires a flat head for it to be adjusted.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, it's right near where it says 13 B.

rotarycal

I got the idle almost set to 750. Rear rotor is blown, engine needs a damn rebuild -__-"

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

what drew you to that conclusion? it's very difficult to get an engine with a bad rotor to idle reliably below 1500, but it isn't out of the realm of possibility and would explain why the cruise control cable was jacked up to keep the car running.

in which case, if true, sorry for your loss.

rotarycal

Well here's a short story..

I was adjusting the idle, a local neighborhood neighbor pulled over in a motorcycle. It turns out he owned 4 RX-7s before. He inspected my engine bay, there were a lot of useless hoses/other stuff. So today, we removed useless stuff (mostly around the top left of the bay), and cleaned up the intake manifold/gaskets (which made it more clear the engine wasn't rebuilt. it'll make more sense later). Everything was put back in place. It wouldn't start right away, but eventually he troubleshooted the problem. Car started, he adjusted the idle. Surprisingly he managed to get the idle a little over 1k rpm, but with the bad rotor, the idle wouldn't be in the ideal range.

In conclusion, he found out it was only running on 1 rotor. I feel disappointed at myself since I managed to drive the car almost every day (for a week and half) around the block with only 1 rotor working properly, not even knowing (check engine has never been on until today). The poor man's compression test isn't all that reliable. I'll be doing a proper test this week just for the experience, and I'm curious as to how much PSI I'll get from the rear rotor. So odd since I felt 3 pulses in succession, it makes no sense to me as to how the rear rotor has gone bad.

If only I had known about this earlier, I would've invested the money by now to buy a rebuild kit or such. I bought the car for a too good to be true price, especially since the guy said the engine was rebuilt. Oh well, I'm actually looking forward to this rebuild. By the time I have the money to purchase everything and get it shipped, I'll have everything I need to know to get started and done properly. Where better else to start learning about cars than at the "heart" :p

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

well i wouldn't write it off until you do the compression test.

in many cases where someone else had been working on these engines i found miscellaneous wiring connectors broken, which a bad injector connector will not work the injector so the engine will only run on 1 rotor with a bad clip. this is why it is super important to be careful with the injectors, because if you lose 1 injector you lose literally almost all fuel to half your engine.

rotarycal

He did mention something about the injectors possibly being swapped, or something around those lines. But for sure a compression test will be done.

I don't know. Maybe it's time to upgrade to the turbo variant. I really like the N/A though. He mentioned something about the 6th port and doing something to it so it acts similar to a vtec. I'm not exactly sure how that works, I was too busy day dreaming about how cool that'd be.

But here's a question. Again, I'm not too sure how all this works, but is it possible to just replace the rear rotor? If it is the rear rotor that's bad, I just find it odd how a whole engine rebuild would be needed.

marclong

iTrader: (1)

How does he know the engine was not rebuilt? From looking at the outside?

rotarycal

Excuse me, I mislead y'all. The seller of the car claimed the engine was rebuilt of recent. Recent being from the time I bought it. Now to be realistic, assume he could have meant 1 month to 2.5 months ago. (from the time of purchase)

The guy who helped me said it doesn't look rebuilt based of off some parts he pointed at (I honestly wasn't paying attention here) that either didn't look "new" or weren't attached to something. Also as we disassembled parts, there was a lot of crap. But he did say the engine was rebuilt, it just couldn't have been recently as falsely claimed.

All will be determined when I do an actual compression test. It's weird though. He said the rear rotor should sound as same as the front, which is really loud and strong. But I read that the S5 will typically have a more powerful pressure coming from the front compared to the rear.

If it does require a rebuild, at least I can avoid flooding to the best of my abilities