stupid warning lights
03-03-10, 11:35 AM
#1
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stupid warning lights
every single warning light is on in my car. i know it has oil and coolant so those two are a mystery. the over heat one im not sure about cause i just got the car and still cant get it started. its a 1991 convert nothing done to it. actually since i was lookin at it today i think the old owner took off the ac and what looks like something else on the left side of the engine. i just see an opening with what looks like a spring or something inside. and when you leave the key on a few seconds later a loud buzzer starts going off too
sorry for jumping around so much in this.
sorry for jumping around so much in this.
03-03-10, 12:50 PM
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Left side as seen standing in front of the car looking at the engine or as seated in the driver's seat.
Do you have pics of your engine bay?
There are a couple loud buzzers in the car. One is for over rev when you get past redline... But since you're not starting, I doubt that's it.
There is also a buzzer that indicates low oil and low coolant.
Low oil sensor is in the oil pan. Low coolant sensor is in the top of the radiator.
Do you have pics of your engine bay?
There are a couple loud buzzers in the car. One is for over rev when you get past redline... But since you're not starting, I doubt that's it.
There is also a buzzer that indicates low oil and low coolant.
Low oil sensor is in the oil pan. Low coolant sensor is in the top of the radiator.
03-03-10, 05:04 PM
#4
If you're just turning the key to 'ON', but never starting it, the warning lights are supposed to all be on.
If/when you get the engine running, all of the lights staying on means your alternator is dead.
Fill/bleed the cooling system, and top off the oil if it's low.
If/when you get the engine running, all of the lights staying on means your alternator is dead.
Fill/bleed the cooling system, and top off the oil if it's low.
03-04-10, 04:40 PM
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If you're just turning the key to 'ON', but never starting it, the warning lights are supposed to all be on.
If/when you get the engine running, all of the lights staying on means your alternator is dead.
Fill/bleed the cooling system, and top off the oil if it's low.
If/when you get the engine running, all of the lights staying on means your alternator is dead.
Fill/bleed the cooling system, and top off the oil if it's low.
OP said that he can't get the car to start, which means that the lights should indeed be on. As for the buzzer, isn't there a driver's seat belt or a door ajar buzzer? It's been so long since my car ran I can't remember, but I know a lot of cars have this though its usually just a ding, ding, ding noise.
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03-18-10, 10:35 PM
#9
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ok. the warning was the coolant. i got the car started finally and found alot of things out.
1. the only way to start it is to hold that little nipple thing in on the mass air flow sensor thingy. will it be ok to find a way to keep it open all the time or do i have to buy a new one or fix it or something?
2. coolant started leaking out from the heater core. least thats what im thinking because its coming from inside passenger side. can i by pass that with a piece of tubing from oneside of the block to the other or is it needed?
3. and finally i thought it was just an exhaust leak but actually hearing it and getting under the car finding out it is the old owner took out the cats. can i put a straight pipe in there for now till i can get a new exhaust system? or will it be better to just get new cats.
1. the only way to start it is to hold that little nipple thing in on the mass air flow sensor thingy. will it be ok to find a way to keep it open all the time or do i have to buy a new one or fix it or something?
2. coolant started leaking out from the heater core. least thats what im thinking because its coming from inside passenger side. can i by pass that with a piece of tubing from oneside of the block to the other or is it needed?
3. and finally i thought it was just an exhaust leak but actually hearing it and getting under the car finding out it is the old owner took out the cats. can i put a straight pipe in there for now till i can get a new exhaust system? or will it be better to just get new cats.
03-19-10, 02:46 PM
#10
1. No, you can't prop the AFM open and expect it to drive properly. The AFM measures incoming air volume, and the ECU uses this value to calculate how much fuel is needed. With the cone piece moved open, the ECU will be dumping in excess fuel.
2. That does sound like the heater core. My original heater core leaked into the passenger compartment. You can bypass it with a piece of tubing to connect the two heater hoses under the hood, or you can just replace the core. It's really not that hard. There's a plastic cover that you can access under the driver-side dash, and the core is located behind it. Disconnect the two hoses, pull, replace & reconnect.
3. You can replace the precats and main cat with a section of pipe. If you don't have emissions testing to worry about, and don't mind the extra noise, go ahead.
2. That does sound like the heater core. My original heater core leaked into the passenger compartment. You can bypass it with a piece of tubing to connect the two heater hoses under the hood, or you can just replace the core. It's really not that hard. There's a plastic cover that you can access under the driver-side dash, and the core is located behind it. Disconnect the two hoses, pull, replace & reconnect.
3. You can replace the precats and main cat with a section of pipe. If you don't have emissions testing to worry about, and don't mind the extra noise, go ahead.
03-20-10, 04:27 PM
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didnt think so. know of a place to get a new one or used one. i already checked all the junk yards and part stores around me and they dont have it or wont even order it for me. ******* hate ky cause it dont hlp that no one around me knows or will even touch my rx7.
03-21-10, 08:53 AM
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so it will cost me bout 250 or more then...damn...what if i used one from another mazda...cause they looked the same when i looked at them in the junk yard and stuff
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