apsolus

iTrader: (2)

Alright let me try and paint the picture here with my car. Car was a very hard start when i first got it and after running it for awhile all i had to do to get it started was turn the engine over with my gas pedal to the floor for about 5 seconds, release and it starts. Im assuming its just cause i have a worn out rotory motor and of course these things like to flood. Well i parked it for about 2 weeks in my garage while doing some much needed work to the motor like fixing my 6thports, fixing a coolant leak, replacing all the oil metering pump lines and installing a junk yard metering pump due to mine leaking, removed the rats nest, Aircontrol valve, egr valve and plugging off a bunch of the hoses because of the rats nest removal.

I met a pretty knoledgable rotory guy a few weeks ago that told me if i were to remove all the emissions i would need to readjust all the fuel and air mixture screws located on the upperintake. Honestly i dont know exactly how to make sure its all right but i managed to get it to idle around 800 rpms and accelerate smoothly.

Fixed coolant leak, installed egr and acv delete plates and removed airpump and rats nest and turned the cold idle screw that goes on the coolant controlled pelet all the way out by removing the set spring and cranking it all the way cause the pelet wasnt moving anyway.

Ever sence doing all this its been a bit harder to start and today after riding it to arbys about 8 miles from my place and letting it sit for about 20 mins i go to start it and the engine seemed to spin much faster than usual and didnt start, good thing i got a strong battery cause after another 30 mins i finally got the thing started. i want to start with making sure i got my airfuel adjustments right so could anyone help out?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like it's flooding out.

Emissions removals cause all kinds of problems unless you know exactly what you are doing. For example, did you remove the hot start solenoid?

S.E.V.E.N.

well as long as you arent on the south side of town in san antonio there are much worse places to be stuck than arby's haha

apsolus

iTrader: (2)

HahahA your right about that seven, anyway i didnt remove anything like that. i did tighten the screw that goes to the coolant device at the rear of the throttle body because the thing doesnt work. i was up till 2am reading all about your na turbo build aaron and learned quite a bit. looks like there was a TSB about removing it all together?? i also removed a vacuum device on the front side of the throttle body that moved the front two blades that also wasnt working. i was told removing all that stuff would make cold start warm up a pain but nothing i wasnt ok with.

Could you show me where the hot start solinoid is? ill go ahead and search it aswell. After reading up last night im sure my injectors need to be rebuild and tomorrow ill go see a diesel shop and see if they can help me out.

I removed the ACV, EGR, air pump and tightened to coolant devices screw to the max. other than that i replaced all vacuum lines and ziptied them up.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The thermowax cold start cam should not be removed, and the screw not adjusted. There was no TSB to remove it. The TSB referred to the sub zero start assist system.

I'd suggest a search in the 2nd gen forum for "emissions removal". There's quite a lot of info out there.

Removing the secondary throttles on the NA won't have any effect.