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sticky pedal

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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 06:19 AM
  #1  
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sticky pedal

My clutch pedal started sticking today in my 86 fc. It was fine when I started the car and drove it on the highway. When I was in traffic it started sticking about half way and I have to pull it up with my foot. Its very cold in the mornings,(when it happened) do I need to bleed the lines and put new fluid in. Or is the slave. Just bought the car but the chassis has 109k on it. I have no idea when the fluid was last changed.
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 10:11 AM
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First check fluid level.(highly unlikely,But If the fluid is down then where did it go?)
If it isn't that,It's a sign that your clutch hydraulics are gonna give up.
Check for leaks.
(tip: if you replace any hydraulic parts,do them all,they are cheap...like 120 for master and slave..tops)
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 11:29 AM
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Ok, if I need to replace the hydraulics are there any high performance/racing parts? I will eventually be putting alot of power in my fc. should I upgrade lines and such as well?
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 11:40 AM
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Sounds like low fluid level to me. Definately want to figure out where the leak is if the fluid is low.

As far as replacement goes, depends on how much power you plan on getting. Would want to upgrade MC and lines when you replace clutch with a stiffer one probably.
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 01:05 PM
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Ill have to look for a leak when I get home, since this happened on my way to work today. What's the power rating for the stock clutch/hydraulics/lines. Ill probably upgrade lines right away before anything else because of the weather conditions
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 01:26 PM
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When you have to pull it up it's time for a new master and slave cylinders. Check your slave, it's mounted behind your engine on top of your trans. My bet is its probably leaking brake fluid some everytime your press in on the clutch. I got new master and slave cylinders at rockauto.com....the master was 15 bucks and the slave was 10. I would try there first,they sometimes have wholesale closeouts and you can get them for cheap. The quality is as good as any and you'll save quite a few bucks to spend on something more fun.
Just be extra careful that you dont get any brake fluid on your paint as it will strip it off lol. It will spill somewhere so make sure you have plenty of old rags underneath the master as you disconnect it, good luck!

BTW, use a flare nut wrench to remove and tighten the brake lines or youll round the head off if you try to use an open end wrench!

Last edited by Clark13b; Oct 16, 2012 at 01:33 PM. Reason: Add another point
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Old Oct 16, 2012 | 03:36 PM
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managed to get the car home from work thank god. the clutch was fine when i started driving it. got off the highway and the pedal started sticking again. a couple of times when i came to a stop and went to shift into first i could only manage to shift it into third. i popped the hood and there was some drip marks where the engine meets the trans. i pumped the clutch a few times then let it stick and i got some smoke from what ever was dripping onto the trans. i couldnt visually see the part that was leaking. but i will be replacing my hydraulics system. while doing that might as well upgrade the lines and such as well.
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 11:52 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by Clark13b
BTW, use a flare nut wrench to remove and tighten the brake lines or youll round the head off if you try to use an open end wrench!
thank you for the flare nut wrench advice!


another question for everyone, as i was removing the slave there was a electronic wire with a connecter the bolt goes through. it then attached to the slave. i put it back on when i put the slave on but i was curious as to what it is. it seemed like it was some sort of ground.
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 01:18 PM
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TX

only upgrade i know of is running a stainless steel flex line, and a brace for the master itself.
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