ok heres the deal, i have an s5 t2 which i just got rebuilt, i put the engine back in myself took my time and put every thing back the way it was, the car is geting fuel and spark, it starts up after a few turns revs up then cuts out, there are are no vac leaks iv checked and double checked the ac and air pump are removed but the car was runing fine with these out before i had to rebuild, if u keep trying to start the car it will turn over a few times then its like the engine will kick back after every couple of turns, i got it build by pip gardner in the uk who is well known for building and tuning rotarys he told me that the timing should be fairly close to just start it up set it and im good to go so i dont think its this, can anyone help me i have solved numerous problems with this car by reading other posts on this site but cant find anything on this and my head is wrecked..ohh ya i have another s5 that runs so i can swap bits just dont know where to start????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????????????????????

 

Plug in the AFM.

 

its pluged in and its geting current i checked it with multimeter, i cant c how it could be fucked i took it out left it in the car and put it back in with engine, only picked up the other fc last night so ill swap em tomorrow eve after work its a start neway thanks for reply,

 

sounds to me like there could be a problem with either your spark plugs, your plug wires, or coils. if you left your old wires i would replace them and see if that fixes it, or if u used old plugs or some one could of iven you the wrong ones or something. also when you get time, get the coils checked out because they could be shorting or just plain bad. sometimes when they go bad they emit enough energy to start the engine and let it idle but when you try to use more power theyll stop all together. these parts can be weird like that.

 

This is a classic symptom of an unplugged AFM, which is why I suggested it first.

Restab the CAS as per the instructions in the FSM/Haynes. It could be a tooth or two off.

 

maybe, but im more than just a rotary mechanic, im also an auto electric technician and this is a problem that normally occurs with bad wires or coils. he mentioned it was plugged in and getting current to so y not start with the obvious.

 

The "obvious" and most common cause of the reported behavior with these cars, as Aaron says, is an unplugged or inoperative AFM. Not to say that is the actual cause of the problem, but it is the first thing one should check. Especially when it has been monkeyed with.

 

My post was actually to the OP above, not necessarily to contradict what you had posted. I was just lazy in my quoting like I am being now.

 

yea, thats ok, i know these engines inside and out though, ive been rebuilding them since i was 16 and im only 22 now, but he said his afm was fine and he has another to swap it with incase, so now we just wait and see what happens cus we could both mbe wrong, but these are only quick sollutions to though.

 

well i swaped afm, leading coil pack, trailing coil pack, plug leads, and the ecu, i did this one at a time and each time it did the same thing, it has 4 new plugs so thats not it either, i know i said that the timing was supposed to be set fairly close but im starting to think that this might be something to do with the problem, like i said the engine is not turning over evenly and its like its kicking back after every couple of turns, a bad afm would not cause this i think, has anyone else ever had an engine turn over like this/????????

 

I have seen this twice, once on a 3TC Toyota engine and once on an old 60's vdub.

Both times we had screwed up the firing order. I don't know if that's really possible with a rotary (I'm still mastering the how they work details) but it wouldn't hurt to check.

Of course, almost anybody else here can correct me if I'm wrong

 

when u say the firing order i presume u mean the timing and i think your right i have been thinking about it and the way the engine is kicking back when its turning the only thing that would cause this is the timing being way off, i know i said it was supposed be set fairly close but obviously not, the only problem now is to get someone who knows what there doing to set it for me, there is no one close to me who would have a clue about rotarys, i built the last engine myself and fucked it up by messing with the timing so dont realy want to do that again,,,,,,,, cheers for reply think ill just stick it on a trailor an bring it to the guy who knows..200 miles away.

 

ok heres a question?? if i put my two cars to top dead center take the crank angle sensor out of the one thats running and put it in the project car will it start and run ok if that is the problem which im nearly sure it is?????????????????

 

The factory service manual explains the procedure for installing the CAS correctly. Download a copy from one of the links in the FAQ.

 

In the instances I observed my engine trying to run backwards, I actually had the wiring order for the spark plugs rather randomized.

Timing very much could cause the same or similar problems, but I'd make sure I had the right wires running to the right spark plugs one last time before I started to retune the timing.

Never, ever trust a mechanic who says "fairly close", "mostly perfect", "should be fine", or the like. I don't care how respected the mechanic is.

Now, there seems to be a dislike of "vulgar" posts, so I can't really tell you what a real mechanic WOULD say when it was done right, but the word "perfect" should be in the sentence, the mechanic should be grinning, and if you ask around you should find out he had to put more gas in your car because he kept "testing" it.