SR20DET > FD3S Swap Questions.
12-16-18, 02:41 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
SR20DET > FD3S Swap Questions.
Hello.
I'm looking to swap an SR20DET into an FD3S. I plan on buying a relatively clean and complete RHD shell. RHD for the novelty factor and I think they are generally cheaper than LHD ones because the total production numbers for LHD ones are less (though this can be argued and there are a lot of freshly imported RHD FD's that people are asking an arm and a leg for). I've had a couple RHD cars and they're fun.
Anyway, I'm trying to do all the required research and make sure I fully understand everything before I pull the trigger on a shell.
I'll lay out what I do know, and perhaps I can get the blanks filled in. Chassis would be an earlier model JDM RHD FD3S (most likely a 1993).
Engine/mounts/custom fab - Would like to utilize Nismo hard rubber SR20 engine and transmission mounts. The brackets would be custom obviously. I would have a shop fab up brackets to get the motor and shifter sitting where they should be.
I'm surprised there aren't off the shelf mounts available. I've searched high and low. Wiring Specialties makes and stocks a harness to swap various iterations of the SR20 into a LHD USDM FD3S.. so it's a common enough of a swap that they do that.
So pay to have a shop make the brackets. I'm not sure if it's 100% required as there may be different ways of doing it, but from one video I've seen, they notch the firewall where the brake lines run across, and cut up the factory front sub frame and then reinforce it. This is probably done because the SR20 is a front sump engine so for clearance.
Pictures screencapped from this video -
(Channel - DIJILO )
Notching the firewall:
Cutting up the subframe:
Reinforcing:
Ok so that should be it as far as getting the motor in.
Wiring - Wiring Specialties makes and stocks a harness - https://www.wiringspecialties.com/rx...wiring-harness
However, it's for LHD cars. When I asked for more info or RHD compatibility:
"We have sold a bunch of them for RHD applications but we are unsure of the differences in the chassis.
These customers have been able to make them work just fine engine wise, we just are unsure about chassis related things such as AC, ABS, gauges etc."
Does anyone know the differences with say the back of the instrument cluster connections between LHD and RHD models? I'd want everything working like factory. I don't care about A/C or ABS working. I would buy the two Dakota converters and dial in the right conversion for speedo and tach working like OEM.
Driveshaft - Pretty straight forward and easy, I take the back half of an FD3S driveshaft and the front yoke of an SR20 driveshaft, measure the distance between diff and transmission and go to a local driveline place (we have a good one near me that's done custom ones for swaps... and as a bonus the finished product would be a 1-piece unit).
Power Steering - This is something I didn't really think about. I know people with SR20 swapped FC's are using the factory SR pump with no problems. I've read that with a lot of LS engines, their power steering pump puts out too much pressure and will damage the rack or give a floaty steering feel. I don't know for sure, but I'm fairly confident I can use the stock SR20 power steering pumps and a stock FD3S rack, pressure wise. It would then be a matter of converting the rack/pump to AN lines, and doing a custom reservoir? No need to mess with the pressure? Sometimes when you buy an engine it comes with the factory power steering reservoir hooked up still. It would be cool to reuse the factory reservoir for a more factory look and save a tiny bit of money (do one of those barb to AN adapters on the factory unit or something). Looking for advice and suggestions with this.
- Factory SR20 power steering pump and FD3S rack - doable? Pressure OK? I can figure out the AN adapters and stuff.
Throttle Cable - Probably the last piece to the puzzle. Not sure what I'd do. I guess an option people go is measuring the length needed, and then going to a junkyard or something and hoping they find the right one. No idea on this, and there isn't any info online from what I've seen.
Am I missing anything?
I'm looking to swap an SR20DET into an FD3S. I plan on buying a relatively clean and complete RHD shell. RHD for the novelty factor and I think they are generally cheaper than LHD ones because the total production numbers for LHD ones are less (though this can be argued and there are a lot of freshly imported RHD FD's that people are asking an arm and a leg for). I've had a couple RHD cars and they're fun.
Anyway, I'm trying to do all the required research and make sure I fully understand everything before I pull the trigger on a shell.
I'll lay out what I do know, and perhaps I can get the blanks filled in. Chassis would be an earlier model JDM RHD FD3S (most likely a 1993).
Engine/mounts/custom fab - Would like to utilize Nismo hard rubber SR20 engine and transmission mounts. The brackets would be custom obviously. I would have a shop fab up brackets to get the motor and shifter sitting where they should be.
I'm surprised there aren't off the shelf mounts available. I've searched high and low. Wiring Specialties makes and stocks a harness to swap various iterations of the SR20 into a LHD USDM FD3S.. so it's a common enough of a swap that they do that.
So pay to have a shop make the brackets. I'm not sure if it's 100% required as there may be different ways of doing it, but from one video I've seen, they notch the firewall where the brake lines run across, and cut up the factory front sub frame and then reinforce it. This is probably done because the SR20 is a front sump engine so for clearance.
Pictures screencapped from this video -
Notching the firewall:
Cutting up the subframe:
Reinforcing:
Ok so that should be it as far as getting the motor in.
Wiring - Wiring Specialties makes and stocks a harness - https://www.wiringspecialties.com/rx...wiring-harness
However, it's for LHD cars. When I asked for more info or RHD compatibility:
"We have sold a bunch of them for RHD applications but we are unsure of the differences in the chassis.
These customers have been able to make them work just fine engine wise, we just are unsure about chassis related things such as AC, ABS, gauges etc."
Does anyone know the differences with say the back of the instrument cluster connections between LHD and RHD models? I'd want everything working like factory. I don't care about A/C or ABS working. I would buy the two Dakota converters and dial in the right conversion for speedo and tach working like OEM.
Driveshaft - Pretty straight forward and easy, I take the back half of an FD3S driveshaft and the front yoke of an SR20 driveshaft, measure the distance between diff and transmission and go to a local driveline place (we have a good one near me that's done custom ones for swaps... and as a bonus the finished product would be a 1-piece unit).
Power Steering - This is something I didn't really think about. I know people with SR20 swapped FC's are using the factory SR pump with no problems. I've read that with a lot of LS engines, their power steering pump puts out too much pressure and will damage the rack or give a floaty steering feel. I don't know for sure, but I'm fairly confident I can use the stock SR20 power steering pumps and a stock FD3S rack, pressure wise. It would then be a matter of converting the rack/pump to AN lines, and doing a custom reservoir? No need to mess with the pressure? Sometimes when you buy an engine it comes with the factory power steering reservoir hooked up still. It would be cool to reuse the factory reservoir for a more factory look and save a tiny bit of money (do one of those barb to AN adapters on the factory unit or something). Looking for advice and suggestions with this.
- Factory SR20 power steering pump and FD3S rack - doable? Pressure OK? I can figure out the AN adapters and stuff.
Throttle Cable - Probably the last piece to the puzzle. Not sure what I'd do. I guess an option people go is measuring the length needed, and then going to a junkyard or something and hoping they find the right one. No idea on this, and there isn't any info online from what I've seen.
Am I missing anything?
12-19-18, 06:45 AM
#2
While you say it seems like a common swap, I cant say ive ever seen it. A few in FC’s but never an FD. I wouldnt want an SR in this car personally but to each his/her own.
For wiring, I have a JDM car and am familiar with some of the differences. A JDM cluster plugs into a US car and vice versa (providing its the same series, i.e. 92-95) but the oil pressure gauge isnt in psi, and some of the warning lights are different. There are threads that go in depth on this. The ECU and ABS module swap sides. So theyre on the left, or US drivers side on a JDM car and the right or US passenger side on a US car. It may be possible to flip the harness but I couldnt say for sure. I know in my experience, while it did its job, my wiring specialties harness was very tight in some places.
Good luck.
For wiring, I have a JDM car and am familiar with some of the differences. A JDM cluster plugs into a US car and vice versa (providing its the same series, i.e. 92-95) but the oil pressure gauge isnt in psi, and some of the warning lights are different. There are threads that go in depth on this. The ECU and ABS module swap sides. So theyre on the left, or US drivers side on a JDM car and the right or US passenger side on a US car. It may be possible to flip the harness but I couldnt say for sure. I know in my experience, while it did its job, my wiring specialties harness was very tight in some places.
Good luck.
12-19-18, 01:25 PM
#3
I've owned every variation of the SR20DET from the redtop to the S15 Spec R Blacktop. I didn't even think that engine was as good as my B18C GS-R, let alone a rotary. But...if you think the money you're gna spend is worth it, then knock yourself out.
This is just me and my logic commenting, so if I'm wrong please correct me. But you think a RHD shell would be cheaper than a LHD shell? Think about it. Why would someone import a RHD shell and sell it cheaper than a shell that's already here in the states? RHD is cool and all blah blah blah, but you're gna have a hell of a time sourcing parts. They are already going to be expensive, then just add in shipping and wait time...thats all you man.
For power steering, my recommendation is just to go with a manual rack. The car is very light, and tbh it feels the same between non-ps and ps. The only differences being road feel (non-ps W/ manual rack feels better) and low speed transitions (ps-especially in parking lots).
IF you decide you want to go through with this (and I HIGHLY recommend against it), go for a LHD shell just out of cost of the shell (if you can find a RHD shell) and the wire harness. I know a lot of times the differences between RHD and LHD vehicles is the location of the harness through the firewall, so the wires are going to be completely different lengths. I'm not sure in the FDs case tho, bc a couple of the systems (ABS for sure) have been relocated completely in LHD vs RHD bodies.
I'm curious though. Why the SR20?
This is just me and my logic commenting, so if I'm wrong please correct me. But you think a RHD shell would be cheaper than a LHD shell? Think about it. Why would someone import a RHD shell and sell it cheaper than a shell that's already here in the states? RHD is cool and all blah blah blah, but you're gna have a hell of a time sourcing parts. They are already going to be expensive, then just add in shipping and wait time...thats all you man.
For power steering, my recommendation is just to go with a manual rack. The car is very light, and tbh it feels the same between non-ps and ps. The only differences being road feel (non-ps W/ manual rack feels better) and low speed transitions (ps-especially in parking lots).
IF you decide you want to go through with this (and I HIGHLY recommend against it), go for a LHD shell just out of cost of the shell (if you can find a RHD shell) and the wire harness. I know a lot of times the differences between RHD and LHD vehicles is the location of the harness through the firewall, so the wires are going to be completely different lengths. I'm not sure in the FDs case tho, bc a couple of the systems (ABS for sure) have been relocated completely in LHD vs RHD bodies.
I'm curious though. Why the SR20?
12-19-18, 08:52 PM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
While you say it seems like a common swap, I cant say ive ever seen it. A few in FC’s but never an FD. I wouldnt want an SR in this car personally but to each his/her own.
For wiring, I have a JDM car and am familiar with some of the differences. A JDM cluster plugs into a US car and vice versa (providing its the same series, i.e. 92-95) but the oil pressure gauge isnt in psi, and some of the warning lights are different. There are threads that go in depth on this. The ECU and ABS module swap sides. So theyre on the left, or US drivers side on a JDM car and the right or US passenger side on a US car. It may be possible to flip the harness but I couldnt say for sure. I know in my experience, while it did its job, my wiring specialties harness was very tight in some places.
Good luck.
For wiring, I have a JDM car and am familiar with some of the differences. A JDM cluster plugs into a US car and vice versa (providing its the same series, i.e. 92-95) but the oil pressure gauge isnt in psi, and some of the warning lights are different. There are threads that go in depth on this. The ECU and ABS module swap sides. So theyre on the left, or US drivers side on a JDM car and the right or US passenger side on a US car. It may be possible to flip the harness but I couldnt say for sure. I know in my experience, while it did its job, my wiring specialties harness was very tight in some places.
Good luck.
Good info on the chassis differences. WS only sells LHD harnesses, but has had customers buy it for RHD applications and said it worked fine engine wise, but can't guarantee A/C, ABS, gauge functionality. I've owned a couple RHD cars so I at least understand the differences in ABS, ECU, wiper motor, etc switching sides. According to WS - "Factory Engine Temperature and Oil Pressure gauge use will require installing the original RX7 sensors onto the new engine." SR20's have two coolant sensors located in the same area, one for the ECU and one for the gauge. I should be able to wire that up easily. Not as sure on the oil pressure cluster gauge, but worst case I plan on doing an oil filter relocation that has a couple ports on it for an aftermarket oil pressure gauge I could tap into.
Thank you.
I've owned every variation of the SR20DET from the redtop to the S15 Spec R Blacktop. I didn't even think that engine was as good as my B18C GS-R, let alone a rotary. But...if you think the money you're gna spend is worth it, then knock yourself out.
This is just me and my logic commenting, so if I'm wrong please correct me. But you think a RHD shell would be cheaper than a LHD shell? Think about it. Why would someone import a RHD shell and sell it cheaper than a shell that's already here in the states? RHD is cool and all blah blah blah, but you're gna have a hell of a time sourcing parts. They are already going to be expensive, then just add in shipping and wait time...thats all you man.
For power steering, my recommendation is just to go with a manual rack. The car is very light, and tbh it feels the same between non-ps and ps. The only differences being road feel (non-ps W/ manual rack feels better) and low speed transitions (ps-especially in parking lots).
IF you decide you want to go through with this (and I HIGHLY recommend against it), go for a LHD shell just out of cost of the shell (if you can find a RHD shell) and the wire harness. I know a lot of times the differences between RHD and LHD vehicles is the location of the harness through the firewall, so the wires are going to be completely different lengths. I'm not sure in the FDs case tho, bc a couple of the systems (ABS for sure) have been relocated completely in LHD vs RHD bodies.
I'm curious though. Why the SR20?
This is just me and my logic commenting, so if I'm wrong please correct me. But you think a RHD shell would be cheaper than a LHD shell? Think about it. Why would someone import a RHD shell and sell it cheaper than a shell that's already here in the states? RHD is cool and all blah blah blah, but you're gna have a hell of a time sourcing parts. They are already going to be expensive, then just add in shipping and wait time...thats all you man.
For power steering, my recommendation is just to go with a manual rack. The car is very light, and tbh it feels the same between non-ps and ps. The only differences being road feel (non-ps W/ manual rack feels better) and low speed transitions (ps-especially in parking lots).
IF you decide you want to go through with this (and I HIGHLY recommend against it), go for a LHD shell just out of cost of the shell (if you can find a RHD shell) and the wire harness. I know a lot of times the differences between RHD and LHD vehicles is the location of the harness through the firewall, so the wires are going to be completely different lengths. I'm not sure in the FDs case tho, bc a couple of the systems (ABS for sure) have been relocated completely in LHD vs RHD bodies.
I'm curious though. Why the SR20?
As far as having a hell of a hard time sourcing parts, I've been sourcing parts from Japan for close to 10 years. Rare and obscure parts included. I owned a C33 Nissan Laurel that came missing a bunch of random interior pieces and other oddball stuff and it was pretty trivial for me to source everything. The parts themselves aren't too expensive, depending on what it is. Shipping, yes is killer. I'm 100% in agreement there. EMS is nice because you get stuff in a week. Sea Post is cheaper but sucks because it can be ~45 days before you get what you ordered.
Power steering - this car probably won't ever see track time and will just mainly be a cool, fun street car. In the sake of just doing everything 'proper' and not having to struggle in parking lots, I think I'd want the power steering working. I appreciate the input, and it's not the first time I've heard manual racks giving a more direct, better feel.
I'm seeing more RHD shells for sale than LHD. Then again, I'm looking a lot in Canada which always has all kinds of cool stuff for sale. ABS is a non-issue as I'm going to be deleting it. Most cars I've owned didn't have ABS. As I mentioned earlier in the post, Wiring Specialties confirmed that their LHD harness will work on a RHD car engine-wise, but they can't guarantee ABS / AC / gauges, etc will work. I'm pretty decent with wiring, so if I need to cut, extend, and solder stuff that's not a huge deal.
I'm strongly considering a 1993, clean, black RHD shell that's being offered to me for $6k. Mostly stock. A little disassembled, but everything there.
Why SR20? Well I've been messing with nothing but Nissan's since my very first car. I've had a couple SR20's and have never had issues with them. I know them well. They get a bad rap from young kids drifting the hell out of them and not maintaining them. Their rocker arms/head design is admittedly a weak point, but that's mostly if you're bouncing off the limiter all the time. So I'm familiar with them, and I know how reliable they can be. They get better gas mileage than a 13B. And it would just be a unique swap in general. No need to counter point my reasoning, my mind is made up. I tried not to knock rotaries best I could. I have a vision and I'm pretty set on it.
12-19-18, 09:21 PM
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Edit: I made a lengthy post before this one, responding to the two posters above but it said it had to get approved. I go to post this one and boom it posts right away. Not sure why there was a difference. Not ignoring the above guys, just the other post needs to get approved for some reason.
Some things I forgot to consider in the OP -
Radiator / intercooler / clutch line / clutch fan - electronic fan - shroud / exhaust / final drive ratio.
Radiator - Utilize a nice aftermarket SR20 radiator (Koyo, etc). Depending on how the radiator will sit, I'm not sure if I can get away with using SR-specific hoses or not. Mounting the radiator first and going from there is probably my best bet. Maybe have it sit where the OEM radiator sits, and just make custom brackets up top to hold it in place. I can always go to the local auto parts store and find radiator hoses that will work, not a huge deal. No fab work involved.
Intercooler - Most people doing this swap do all sorts of crazy v-mount setup. Another guy just hacked up the piping for an SR20 intercooler kit and got it to work. There's a company that sells a 'high mount intercooler' kit for SR20 with very short piping that I may try and get to work.
Clutch line - I've replaced a stripped clutch line before. Went to an auto parts store, bought a section of brake line and rented a pipe bender, and made one that looked OEM. I don't see this being a huge deal. Worst case I may need to use adapters if the threads aren't the same from the Mazda master cylinder to the Nissan slave cylinder. This should be easy to make myself.
Clutch fan/shroud/electronic fans - Highly doubt I can use the oem clutch fan because I don't think I'll get a Nissan fan shroud in there. Most people into SR's and Nissan's advise against going e-fans because the oem clutch fan and shroud does a damn good job. There's also a lot of dodgy e-fan kits out there. I've never done e-fans, but I know some people wire them to a toggle switch (kinda ghetto) or auto parts stores sell an e-fan thermostat kit to turn them on once a sensor gets to a certain temp. I'll research this and get a proper setup going. I've heard OEM Altima fans are great. I've heard the brand 'SPAL' is great, I think OEM Corvette fans are SPAL. So I'll basically just do some custom e-fan setup that's actually legit and not ghetto.
Exhaust - Nissan exhaust is on the left side, OEM FD3S is on the right side. On the plus side, it doesn't really look like the OEM rear bumper has a cut-out for an exhaust on the right, so I could just run one along the left and it would look factory. Downside is this means a full custom exhaust from the downpipe-back - $$$ - (assuming I can even use an SR downpipe, which who knows).
Final drive ratio - Looks like FD's came with ~3.9 to 4.1ish final drives (or whatever you call the ring and pinion ratio). This is actually really good, as that's about what a stock Silvia/240sx/etc comes with. That means that the stock 5-speed SR trans should be a perfect match.
There's multiple ways to do this swap. If I can avoid cutting up the firewall that'd be awesome. I don't think there is a way to avoid cutting up the front subframe. I've seen some Japanese dudes doing a custom oil pan. I guess I really won't know what needs to be done until the motor is lowered into the bay. I'll be doing all the work besides making mounts. I have a shop picked out that is more than capable of doing the swap. They will make the mounts (or brackets I guess), modify the subframe, and possibly a custom oil pan. I'd like to utilize Nismo engine and transmission mounts if possible (they're basically the same as factory, with harder rubber). So I just need brackets fabbed up to utilize them.
Some people go crazy with the firewall:
Medium-crazy:
And the rare, completely factory firewall (notice how much farther the engine sits compared to the other two):
Out of all the swaps I've seen, that's one of the few where they didn't touch the firewall. I don't have any more pictures really of the swap. Found that on some random Japanese website. Can only wonder how they pulled it off. I'm not building a time attack car, so I'm not super concerned about weight balance. I would like to do it how that last guy did it.
Some things I forgot to consider in the OP -
Radiator / intercooler / clutch line / clutch fan - electronic fan - shroud / exhaust / final drive ratio.
Radiator - Utilize a nice aftermarket SR20 radiator (Koyo, etc). Depending on how the radiator will sit, I'm not sure if I can get away with using SR-specific hoses or not. Mounting the radiator first and going from there is probably my best bet. Maybe have it sit where the OEM radiator sits, and just make custom brackets up top to hold it in place. I can always go to the local auto parts store and find radiator hoses that will work, not a huge deal. No fab work involved.
Intercooler - Most people doing this swap do all sorts of crazy v-mount setup. Another guy just hacked up the piping for an SR20 intercooler kit and got it to work. There's a company that sells a 'high mount intercooler' kit for SR20 with very short piping that I may try and get to work.
Clutch line - I've replaced a stripped clutch line before. Went to an auto parts store, bought a section of brake line and rented a pipe bender, and made one that looked OEM. I don't see this being a huge deal. Worst case I may need to use adapters if the threads aren't the same from the Mazda master cylinder to the Nissan slave cylinder. This should be easy to make myself.
Clutch fan/shroud/electronic fans - Highly doubt I can use the oem clutch fan because I don't think I'll get a Nissan fan shroud in there. Most people into SR's and Nissan's advise against going e-fans because the oem clutch fan and shroud does a damn good job. There's also a lot of dodgy e-fan kits out there. I've never done e-fans, but I know some people wire them to a toggle switch (kinda ghetto) or auto parts stores sell an e-fan thermostat kit to turn them on once a sensor gets to a certain temp. I'll research this and get a proper setup going. I've heard OEM Altima fans are great. I've heard the brand 'SPAL' is great, I think OEM Corvette fans are SPAL. So I'll basically just do some custom e-fan setup that's actually legit and not ghetto.
Exhaust - Nissan exhaust is on the left side, OEM FD3S is on the right side. On the plus side, it doesn't really look like the OEM rear bumper has a cut-out for an exhaust on the right, so I could just run one along the left and it would look factory. Downside is this means a full custom exhaust from the downpipe-back - $$$ - (assuming I can even use an SR downpipe, which who knows).
Final drive ratio - Looks like FD's came with ~3.9 to 4.1ish final drives (or whatever you call the ring and pinion ratio). This is actually really good, as that's about what a stock Silvia/240sx/etc comes with. That means that the stock 5-speed SR trans should be a perfect match.
There's multiple ways to do this swap. If I can avoid cutting up the firewall that'd be awesome. I don't think there is a way to avoid cutting up the front subframe. I've seen some Japanese dudes doing a custom oil pan. I guess I really won't know what needs to be done until the motor is lowered into the bay. I'll be doing all the work besides making mounts. I have a shop picked out that is more than capable of doing the swap. They will make the mounts (or brackets I guess), modify the subframe, and possibly a custom oil pan. I'd like to utilize Nismo engine and transmission mounts if possible (they're basically the same as factory, with harder rubber). So I just need brackets fabbed up to utilize them.
Some people go crazy with the firewall:
Medium-crazy:
And the rare, completely factory firewall (notice how much farther the engine sits compared to the other two):
Out of all the swaps I've seen, that's one of the few where they didn't touch the firewall. I don't have any more pictures really of the swap. Found that on some random Japanese website. Can only wonder how they pulled it off. I'm not building a time attack car, so I'm not super concerned about weight balance. I would like to do it how that last guy did it.
Last edited by dazed1; 12-19-18 at 09:24 PM.
12-20-18, 11:41 AM
#6
Why SR20? Well I've been messing with nothing but Nissan's since my very first car. I've had a couple SR20's and have never had issues with them. I know them well. They get a bad rap from young kids drifting the hell out of them and not maintaining them. Their rocker arms/head design is admittedly a weak point, but that's mostly if you're bouncing off the limiter all the time. So I'm familiar with them, and I know how reliable they can be. They get better gas mileage than a 13B. And it would just be a unique swap in general. No need to counter point my reasoning, my mind is made up. I tried not to knock rotaries best I could. I have a vision and I'm pretty set on it.
The following users liked this post:
Maxwedge (07-29-20)
12-20-18, 01:23 PM
#7
Agreed. Well good luck to you man! As much as I'd like to flame you, you seem to have done your research outside of motor swaps in video games and I understand the loyalty to the SR series motor, as I've developed the same for rotaries over the years.
Again, good luck to you! Make sure when you get it started to make a build thread so we can keep track of your progress!!
Again, good luck to you! Make sure when you get it started to make a build thread so we can keep track of your progress!!
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12-28-18, 08:17 PM
#9
Rotary Freak
Have you done a swap before? It doesn't strike me that you haven't, with you saying the driveshaft is easy and the throttle cable hard. You can get a cable made same day here for very little, digging around looking for various correct ends and lengths sounds like a recipe to waste lots of time. Getting a shaft made is easy, yes. Alignment of tailshaft, gearbox and diff is the key difference between a piece of ***** that vibrates your fillings out or something that drives half decent though.
The firewall seam has nothing to do with front sump, it's just a consequence of the length and height of a 2 litre 4 cylinder...even dry sumped you have to relieve it, unless you position forward and above the rack - as I assume the white car has done. SR20s are getting really old now, over here blocks and heads are getting pricier and less available, not like 25 years ago when you could buy S13 engines for $700/800 or GTiRs for double. I'd be looking elsewhere in the nissan range nowadays.
The blokes in the video, where would you start - I've seen better work in a dirt floor farm shed! Can't cut or weld square judging by that subframe - and they have a grinder(even if 9") - and leave those godawful welds and paint them like job done, lol..
The firewall seam has nothing to do with front sump, it's just a consequence of the length and height of a 2 litre 4 cylinder...even dry sumped you have to relieve it, unless you position forward and above the rack - as I assume the white car has done. SR20s are getting really old now, over here blocks and heads are getting pricier and less available, not like 25 years ago when you could buy S13 engines for $700/800 or GTiRs for double. I'd be looking elsewhere in the nissan range nowadays.
The blokes in the video, where would you start - I've seen better work in a dirt floor farm shed! Can't cut or weld square judging by that subframe - and they have a grinder(even if 9") - and leave those godawful welds and paint them like job done, lol..
12-29-18, 09:39 PM
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Have you done a swap before? It doesn't strike me that you haven't, with you saying the driveshaft is easy and the throttle cable hard. You can get a cable made same day here for very little, digging around looking for various correct ends and lengths sounds like a recipe to waste lots of time. Getting a shaft made is easy, yes. Alignment of tailshaft, gearbox and diff is the key difference between a piece of ***** that vibrates your fillings out or something that drives half decent though.
The firewall seam has nothing to do with front sump, it's just a consequence of the length and height of a 2 litre 4 cylinder...even dry sumped you have to relieve it, unless you position forward and above the rack - as I assume the white car has done. SR20s are getting really old now, over here blocks and heads are getting pricier and less available, not like 25 years ago when you could buy S13 engines for $700/800 or GTiRs for double. I'd be looking elsewhere in the nissan range nowadays.
The blokes in the video, where would you start - I've seen better work in a dirt floor farm shed! Can't cut or weld square judging by that subframe - and they have a grinder(even if 9") - and leave those godawful welds and paint them like job done, lol..
The firewall seam has nothing to do with front sump, it's just a consequence of the length and height of a 2 litre 4 cylinder...even dry sumped you have to relieve it, unless you position forward and above the rack - as I assume the white car has done. SR20s are getting really old now, over here blocks and heads are getting pricier and less available, not like 25 years ago when you could buy S13 engines for $700/800 or GTiRs for double. I'd be looking elsewhere in the nissan range nowadays.
The blokes in the video, where would you start - I've seen better work in a dirt floor farm shed! Can't cut or weld square judging by that subframe - and they have a grinder(even if 9") - and leave those godawful welds and paint them like job done, lol..
I'd get an S15 SR20. 480cc injectors from the factory, newer motor, etc. But not use the 6-speed they came with. White car may have done a modified oil pan as I've seen some people do with this swap. I agree on the quality of that swap in the video. My swap will be way cleaner, I know a good shop that will TIG weld everything.
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wthdidusay82
Other Engine Conversions - non V-8
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11-15-04 01:54 PM