It got wet behind the headlights because they are missing the plastic behind them. It fried one of the coils and wasn't firing and now you've got all your spark back. it'll start with now AFM only when you choke it. Bought a new one and still no luck. Where do I go from here?

 

state your Car please..

 

Oh wow, my bad. 1991 non turbo RX7
It'll start with "no" afm

 

check fuel? compression?

 

If you bought a remanufactured AFM they are junk and a used one is a better substitute. Have you tried starting the car when jumpering the fuel check connector w/the old AFM connected.

 

I don't think I've tried with the fuel check connector, not sure how to honestly. I've tried staring with with both the stock afm and the used one i got off line, same result. I have to disconnect it and block the hose completely, then release it to get it to start. After that it will only idle for so long before it dies.


Edit:Looked up the procedure for the compression test, I've tried that with both AFMs and gotten the same result

 

The check connector is part of the emission hareness and located along a bundle of wires between the engine and passenger shock tower. It's usually encased in a Black rubber boot and has but two wires, which need to be connected to each other via a jumper wire. Measure the voltage of the Br/W wire at the TPS as suggested in your other thread.

 

Got it. I've checked it to no avail

 

What did you check to no avail?

EDIT: Pin 2B of the ECU, which is a Green wire, ought to read 4 volts w/key to on.

 

Actually I lied, I haven't checked that yet. We checked for error codes. I'll try your suggestion and get back to you. Thanks for the tip, whether it works or not.

 

And don't forget to check the Br/W wire at the TPS. If you have a short in that wire w/the AFM connected the car will not start.

 

If i have a short in that wire about how much would it cost to replace?

 

The short would most likely be caused by the AFM. Just take a multimeter set to DCv and place the Red lead into the back of the TPS plug where the Brown/White wire is and the Black meter lead to the negative battery terminal and w/key to on you'll instantly know whether you have the correct voltage or not.

The Br/W wire is also found at the Pressure sensor as well thus you could test it there rather than the TPS.

 

What's the ideal voltage?

 

For what?

 

This is OP's friend posting. Here's a post from another thread explaining the situation a little better.

"Has headers, emissions delete, electric fan, oil metering pump delete.
Has a K&N filter than you need to oil.

The L igniter wasn't sparking, so I bought a new one. Now getting spark on all 4 plugs.

Also changed plugs out to new NGK coppers. (The one for rotarys. I forget the model number)

PO ran car through a car wash and we're assuming it fried the igniter.
Car throws a code. "11" Which is the thermosensor, I believe. Thermosensor has been changed out.


So my issue is, we can get the car running, but in order to do so, we have to disconnect the afm and artificially create a rich situation by blocking off the intake.

The car will fire up and we have to gradually introduce more air. We can hold the car steady around 2,400 rpm. If we drop it down, it will stall out, if we go any higher, the car looses power and we assume it's leaning.

If we reconnect, the afm, the car will will fire up but not stay running for more than a second or two."


The other day, I stopped by his house and we tried to get it to start for a minute. I noticed the VDI actuator had been removed. I manually flipped it back and forth while he cranked and we got a few sputters with the AFM connected.

I was looking at a vacuum diagram and noticed that there are a couple of diaphragms on both sides of the lower intake manifold. These are also removed.

Would these being removed affect how it starts/runs? I.e. if one was open and one was closed, would it cause the car not to start? I wouldn't think so, because these are primarily used to improve low end torque (kinda like the T-VIS system that toyota uses which I'm more familiar with.)

I'll jump the check connector and find the voltage and post the results.

 

A vacuum leak can cause your problem, the fuel switch in the AFM can cause this problem which can be bypassed by jumpering the fuel check connector, or the AFM is just plain bad. There is an ohm test for the AFM in the FSM to check whether it is within spec or not.

 

check all hoses!

 

im on the same boat

 

Flooded

 

Multimeter reads 001.
Please keep in mind that I'm not a car Davy person. Explain instructions to me the way you would a five year old

 

If the BR/W wire reads .001 volts w/key to on then something is obviously wrong. If this is the case then unplug the Pressure Sensor, TPS and OMP as they are all fed 5 volts w/key to on by the Br/W wire. After these items have all been disconnected then read the voltage once again on the Br/W wire w/key to on and see if you read 5 volts or not.

 

Same, started at 003 steadied at 001. I'll pay someone to come look at this, I'm runnin out of time.

 

Unplug the second largest ECU plug and take a voltage reading from pin 2A (the pin where the Br/W wire was connected to) w/key to on and see if the voltage stays low or not. If it measures 5 volts then the Br/W wire connected to the ECU is grounded out. If the reading stays low then make sure to test pin 3I (Black/White wire) w/key to on and it should read 12 volts. If it does not then the ECU is not powered up which would cause there to be no voltage on the Br/W wire.

And are you sure you are using a proper ground source for the multimeter such as the negative battery terminal. And also measure the battery voltage to rule out that the meter you are using actually works.

 

Yes, I've been usin the negative terminal for grounding. I bought the battery brand new a few weeks ago.