Spark but no start
06-29-13, 05:57 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Spark but no start
It got wet behind the headlights because they are missing the plastic behind them. It fried one of the coils and wasn't firing and now you've got all your spark back. it'll start with now AFM only when you choke it. Bought a new one and still no luck. Where do I go from here?
06-30-13, 03:13 PM
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I don't think I've tried with the fuel check connector, not sure how to honestly. I've tried staring with with both the stock afm and the used one i got off line, same result. I have to disconnect it and block the hose completely, then release it to get it to start. After that it will only idle for so long before it dies.
Edit:Looked up the procedure for the compression test, I've tried that with both AFMs and gotten the same result
Edit:Looked up the procedure for the compression test, I've tried that with both AFMs and gotten the same result
Last edited by apprenticeforhire; 06-30-13 at 03:16 PM. Reason: mistake
06-30-13, 03:18 PM
#7
The check connector is part of the emission hareness and located along a bundle of wires between the engine and passenger shock tower. It's usually encased in a Black rubber boot and has but two wires, which need to be connected to each other via a jumper wire. Measure the voltage of the Br/W wire at the TPS as suggested in your other thread.
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06-30-13, 04:00 PM
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Actually I lied, I haven't checked that yet. We checked for error codes. I'll try your suggestion and get back to you. Thanks for the tip, whether it works or not.
06-30-13, 06:05 PM
#13
The short would most likely be caused by the AFM. Just take a multimeter set to DCv and place the Red lead into the back of the TPS plug where the Brown/White wire is and the Black meter lead to the negative battery terminal and w/key to on you'll instantly know whether you have the correct voltage or not.
The Br/W wire is also found at the Pressure sensor as well thus you could test it there rather than the TPS.
The Br/W wire is also found at the Pressure sensor as well thus you could test it there rather than the TPS.
07-13-13, 01:04 AM
#16
Junior Member
Thread Starter
This is OP's friend posting. Here's a post from another thread explaining the situation a little better.
"Has headers, emissions delete, electric fan, oil metering pump delete.
Has a K&N filter than you need to oil.
The L igniter wasn't sparking, so I bought a new one. Now getting spark on all 4 plugs.
Also changed plugs out to new NGK coppers. (The one for rotarys. I forget the model number)
PO ran car through a car wash and we're assuming it fried the igniter.
Car throws a code. "11" Which is the thermosensor, I believe. Thermosensor has been changed out.
So my issue is, we can get the car running, but in order to do so, we have to disconnect the afm and artificially create a rich situation by blocking off the intake.
The car will fire up and we have to gradually introduce more air. We can hold the car steady around 2,400 rpm. If we drop it down, it will stall out, if we go any higher, the car looses power and we assume it's leaning.
If we reconnect, the afm, the car will will fire up but not stay running for more than a second or two."
The other day, I stopped by his house and we tried to get it to start for a minute. I noticed the VDI actuator had been removed. I manually flipped it back and forth while he cranked and we got a few sputters with the AFM connected.
I was looking at a vacuum diagram and noticed that there are a couple of diaphragms on both sides of the lower intake manifold. These are also removed.
Would these being removed affect how it starts/runs? I.e. if one was open and one was closed, would it cause the car not to start? I wouldn't think so, because these are primarily used to improve low end torque (kinda like the T-VIS system that toyota uses which I'm more familiar with.)
I'll jump the check connector and find the voltage and post the results.
"Has headers, emissions delete, electric fan, oil metering pump delete.
Has a K&N filter than you need to oil.
The L igniter wasn't sparking, so I bought a new one. Now getting spark on all 4 plugs.
Also changed plugs out to new NGK coppers. (The one for rotarys. I forget the model number)
PO ran car through a car wash and we're assuming it fried the igniter.
Car throws a code. "11" Which is the thermosensor, I believe. Thermosensor has been changed out.
So my issue is, we can get the car running, but in order to do so, we have to disconnect the afm and artificially create a rich situation by blocking off the intake.
The car will fire up and we have to gradually introduce more air. We can hold the car steady around 2,400 rpm. If we drop it down, it will stall out, if we go any higher, the car looses power and we assume it's leaning.
If we reconnect, the afm, the car will will fire up but not stay running for more than a second or two."
The other day, I stopped by his house and we tried to get it to start for a minute. I noticed the VDI actuator had been removed. I manually flipped it back and forth while he cranked and we got a few sputters with the AFM connected.
I was looking at a vacuum diagram and noticed that there are a couple of diaphragms on both sides of the lower intake manifold. These are also removed.
Would these being removed affect how it starts/runs? I.e. if one was open and one was closed, would it cause the car not to start? I wouldn't think so, because these are primarily used to improve low end torque (kinda like the T-VIS system that toyota uses which I'm more familiar with.)
I'll jump the check connector and find the voltage and post the results.
07-13-13, 09:31 AM
#17
A vacuum leak can cause your problem, the fuel switch in the AFM can cause this problem which can be bypassed by jumpering the fuel check connector, or the AFM is just plain bad. There is an ohm test for the AFM in the FSM to check whether it is within spec or not.
07-20-13, 04:17 PM
#22
If the BR/W wire reads .001 volts w/key to on then something is obviously wrong. If this is the case then unplug the Pressure Sensor, TPS and OMP as they are all fed 5 volts w/key to on by the Br/W wire. After these items have all been disconnected then read the voltage once again on the Br/W wire w/key to on and see if you read 5 volts or not.
07-29-13, 05:37 PM
#24
And are you sure you are using a proper ground source for the multimeter such as the negative battery terminal. And also measure the battery voltage to rule out that the meter you are using actually works.
Last edited by satch; 07-29-13 at 05:54 PM.