87dumpsterFC

Im in the process of selling my current car to fund the build of my 87. My goal is a solid 4-500whp and a nice daily driver. Im in the process of writing out a build list to see how much I need to get for my car to make the build work, and I have a couple of questions.

First off how stout is the rear end? I've seen very little on the subject, and I need to know if it will hold 500whp, if not what parts seem to be the problem. I dont know if it matter but the car was NA and is 4lug.

second does this list seem ok and am i missing anything major
JDM S4 turbo2 motor (transmission harness ecu ect. included)
Street port w/ 3mm apex seals and lapped plates
fuel system upgrades pump regulator fuel rail
injectors 1680 secondary and im kinda at a loss on what primarys should be do I keep them proportional to stock?

intercooler and piping
turbo wastegate manifold boost controller BOV

oil pump block off and new pump and resivouir for oil injection into motor
cooling upgrades radiator, cap, air separation tank

clutch and flywheel

engine mangement (this is another place im confussed I just cant seem to find solid information on any tuning options for the FC,

thanks for any help

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

There is a big difference between 400HP adn 500HP.

At 400HP, you can run a well mannered turbo such as a GT35R and have great response even with stock ports, though a street port is a better choice.

At 500HP, you start to get into turbo sizing that is in my opinion laggy without more aggressive porting like a big street port or bridgeport.

At 400HP, you are fine as far a stock TII drivetrain goes. At 500HP, even though the TII stuff is very stout, it can get delicate at 500HP depending on how you drive it. Note that since your car is a 4 lug NA, then you will need to upgrade the complete drivetrain: TII transmission, driveshaft, rear end, axles, 5 lug hubs. Unless you are into fabrication, then you can mix and match parts but the NA stuff is always weaker.

The NA rear end specifically will handle 500HP to a point, but the wrong kind of hard launch will likely break a stub shaft.

Going with a j-spec TII engine is a good start. Don't bother with 3MM apex seals as they aren't really stronger then 2MM seals and will require the rotors to be machined (which if done incorrectly, will just cause problems). 3MM seals also don't seal as well as 2MM, though it's a negligible concern. Lapping of plates is only necessary if the plates you start out with are worn. 2nd gen plates can't be lapped heavily due to the coolant o-ring grooves becoming too shallow (no one is quite sure where the limit is...I'd say 2 lappings).

Your stock fuel rails are fine. The stock fittings can be non threaded and AN adapters installed. Go with 720CC primaries and the 1600CC secondaries. For 400HP, a single Walbro 255 pump is fine. For 500HP, look to one of the larger aftermarket pumps (I run an Aeromotive "700HP EFI" pump).

Many turbo and manifold kits to choose from. For example, A-Spec has a GT35R kit for 400HP levels: http://www.a-spectuning.com/html/products/gt35r_t4.htm

For 500HP, the 500R kit is a good example:
http://www.a-spectuning.com/html/products/gt500r.htm

On my 500HP 2nd gen, I run a GT4088R and I quite like it. It's an expensive turbo though, and there are many other choices generically if you want 500HP like the old T70, T4Z, etc.

2nd gens don't have an air separation tank, though I guess you could always just add one.

As for management, there are many, many, many choices. Check out the ECU subforum. I'd recommend the Haltech Platinum 1000 as good starting point.

87dumpsterFC

Awesome information man thanks a lot. Yeah most of my help and info is coming from my roommate who owns an FD.

So reading over 400ish looks like my goal looks to be a nice intermediate point for me to have my daily driver at.

Only part I didn't quite get is the rear end and drive train.

so with the TII transmission im getting Id need a new driveshaft and rear end or can I stick with whats in the car now (NA 4 lug)?

Is the driveshaft yoke on the TII transmission different than the NA motor? That being said would a lightweight aluminum or CF driveshaft be a better option?

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

I think Apex'i PFC is also now an option for management. This shop has a good reputation in the 3rd Gen. section and now offers an adaptor harness so you don't have to hack your 2nd Gen. engine harness.
http://banzai-racing.com/store/86-91...anagement.html

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

A 400HP FC RX-7 literally has supercar performance, if you can get the power to the ground. With traction, it is a low 11 second car on "street" tires and will run to 60 MPH in about 4 seconds. It is, quite frankly, terrifying. Going wide open throttle is not just something you do whenever, it is an event. Just keep that in mind before you decide you want a 400+ HP FC as a daily driver.

The driveshaft yolk on the TII transmission is different than the NA transmission, as is the differential flange. If you want to mate a TII transmission to an NA diff, you need a custom shaft. The local driveline shop can make one, or you can get one from Mazdatrix. Keep in mind that a NA open diff will survive at these power levels because it won't catch traction. And LSD will break. And at 400HP, you can break an NA transmission at will just by putting your foot down in 3rd gear.

Long story short, you want a TII drivetrain.

87dumpsterFC

got ya, yeah I def want an LSD so the TII drivetrain seems like the plan, ill have the transmission already so that shouldnt be too hard,

Im glad to hear 400hp is that much performance since I want to build a street beast, that being said a low/high boost setting will probably exist

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Trust me, a 400+ HP FC is a mind warping experience. Mine has actually caused a friend to lose control of her bladder...twice.

500HP is just silly. Go down a gear and the car is sideways at any speed. Any speed.

87dumpsterFC

now I just want to sale my car so I can start working on this thing
thanks again for all the help