Single turbo help/readiness
Single turbo help/readiness
So Addicted Performance is developing a EFR single turbo kit and I wanted to know eat are some thing I should do to get my 93 FD ready for a 8374 or 9180?
Start with checking the engines compression, if compression is good then move onto upgrading your cooling system. If compression is low than you need a rebuild before even considering going single.
win.postMessage(msg,"*");
}
Compression is good. Only 9k on rebuild. No real mods yet just. 13bre manifold, high flow cat, racing beat exhaust, RW throttle body.
window.post_1482537400642_13 = function(win,msg){
win.postMessage(msg,"*");
}
Im going to assume that the kit will include a downpipe, intercooler, and an intake and that the car is fully caught up on maintenance.
Before you think about power start with upgrading your cooling system and ECU:
Koyo Rad, Dual Oil coolers, metal AST, upgraded thermostat, and a Power FC for ECU
After cooling mods:
Upgraded injectors, upgraded fuel pump, Ignition Amp, Upgraded Clutch, and some Hawk brake pads
For more power AFTER the other mods I mentioned:
Get a more free flowing catback, lightweight pulleys, lightweight flywheel, and water/meth injection
Before you think about power start with upgrading your cooling system and ECU:
Koyo Rad, Dual Oil coolers, metal AST, upgraded thermostat, and a Power FC for ECU
After cooling mods:
Upgraded injectors, upgraded fuel pump, Ignition Amp, Upgraded Clutch, and some Hawk brake pads
For more power AFTER the other mods I mentioned:
Get a more free flowing catback, lightweight pulleys, lightweight flywheel, and water/meth injection
Im going to assume that the kit will include a downpipe, intercooler, and an intake and that the car is fully caught up on maintenance.
Before you think about power start with upgrading your cooling system and ECU:
Koyo Rad, Dual Oil coolers, metal AST, upgraded thermostat, and a Power FC for ECU
After cooling mods:
Upgraded injectors, upgraded fuel pump, Ignition Amp, Upgraded Clutch, and some Hawk brake pads
For more power AFTER the other mods I mentioned:
Get a more free flowing catback, lightweight pulleys, lightweight flywheel, and water/meth injection
Before you think about power start with upgrading your cooling system and ECU:
Koyo Rad, Dual Oil coolers, metal AST, upgraded thermostat, and a Power FC for ECU
After cooling mods:
Upgraded injectors, upgraded fuel pump, Ignition Amp, Upgraded Clutch, and some Hawk brake pads
For more power AFTER the other mods I mentioned:
Get a more free flowing catback, lightweight pulleys, lightweight flywheel, and water/meth injection
And for a ECU, my brother has a guy haltech so I yhink I'm going for a 1500.
Trending Topics
Lighter flywheel is not needed, but if you want the trade of( do a rese arch on it if you don know by now). New clutch and presure plate is good idea. Suspension, with more power you need a good way to transfer that power to the ground. Need boost controler. Take a look to some builds in the forum. Do it right from the begining, be patient and have some money handy.
"No real mods yet"? Not certain of the need for a RotaryWorks TB and RE manifold, but those are pretty significant mods.
Other stuff not yet mentioned that I can think of off-hand....
*Poly motor mounts if you don't have them. OEM won't last.
*A good SMIC or VMIC. Both will probably require battery relocation.
*I agree with a stronger-than-stock clutch, but with that I'd replace the clutch fork. They have a tendency to fatigue and fail with time and stiffer pressure plates. Good time to replace throw-out and pilot bearings too.
*Have the manifold and DP heat-coated. At minimum header wrapped.
*Not much advantage to lightweight pulleys, but I would NOT use underdrive pulleys without an idler pulley to replace the airpump.
Other stuff not yet mentioned that I can think of off-hand....
*Poly motor mounts if you don't have them. OEM won't last.
*A good SMIC or VMIC. Both will probably require battery relocation.
*I agree with a stronger-than-stock clutch, but with that I'd replace the clutch fork. They have a tendency to fatigue and fail with time and stiffer pressure plates. Good time to replace throw-out and pilot bearings too.
*Have the manifold and DP heat-coated. At minimum header wrapped.
*Not much advantage to lightweight pulleys, but I would NOT use underdrive pulleys without an idler pulley to replace the airpump.
Regardless of all the above, which is great information, the turbos you mention are quite large so I wouldn't even bother running them on a stock engine......the stock ports matched with those turbo choices aren't optimal. Atleast you'd want to think of running street ported irons.





