I am in the process of putting a newer engine in my 92 Efini. Its a 13B twin turbo and I while taking apart the old engine, all the vacuum hoses are cracking and breaking.

Would it be worth it to purchase new silicone hoses to install and clean up the new engine going in?

Thanks.

 

Absolutely.

 

Yeah why not? Make it look better and last longer.

 

Better now than the "where's that boost/vacuum leak" game when an old hose snaps during install.

 

Yes, you have opportunity to take care of it, it would be worth it. I read a lot of information and one thing to do is to upgrade vaccuum hoses.

 

Seems like you knew the answer to this one already

 

If you don't change those hoses now you will curse your existence later

 

lol so thats a yes?

Yeah I sort of already thought I should, I just wanted to hear what other people had to say before I went ahead and did it.

Any recommendations for a certain kit or brand of hose I should use?
I have read that 30feet of 4mm and 15feet of 6mm should be enough?

Joe.

 

That sounds about right. Get good quality silicone (Baker Precision or Hose Techniques is pretty good) because the stuff you might find at the parts store is junk and will fade and get soft in a couple of years.

How's the wiring harness?

If you intend to use the sequential turbos, there are other components worth checking. Check valves, solenoids, and vacuum chambers are not too hard to test when the engine is apart.

I'm curious what your approach is: are you itching to get the motor in and worry about details later, or are you open to taking a little more time to simplify/improve/test the components that are packed on that engine? FDs can work really well, sequential turbos included, if all the parts are functioning. IMHO the best way to acheive that result is to take it all apart, test all of the components, and put it back together with better parts where applicable. That does not fit everyone though so I won't push that if you're not interested in it.

Dave

 

@ dgeesaman

The reason I was taking the rats nest out was to get at the wiring harness in the first place. The harness is in pretty good condition however I broke a few clips getting it out (so damn brittle) But I will be transferring it over to the new engine, which arrived earlier today and I am about to go take a look at it.

I intend to run a completely stock setup for now, making everything run good and proper before I start doing any upgrades. I am VERY open to taking more time to simplify/improve/test components while the engine is out of the car because I know it will be a lot easier and save trouble down the road. I can't put the car on the road till early April anyways so I am in no rush.

I think I will start by ordering some of that hose. I am not getting the kit off of RX7store because its too expensive. I think I will just buy the 4mm and 6mm hose off of either Baker Precision or Hose Techniques because I have seen those brand names thrown around a lot regarding this specific topic.

Thanks for the help.

 

Well, then here are some very relevant suggestions:
- re-wrap the harness in silicone self-fusing tape, inspect for damage
- test all solenoids and actuators
- replace all fuel hoses and cooling system hoses (particularly the two to the turbos)
- replace the FPD
- send injectors out for ultrasonic cleaning and o-ring replacement
- install a 2nd gen thermoswitch
- simplifications (delete double throttle, AWS, EGR, secondary air, whatever floats your boat)
- install new radiator caps and thermostat
- reseal oil pan and install oil pan brace
- inspect motor mounts

There are links in the 3rd gen FAQ about most of this stuff. Particularly take note of the "vacuum hose job".

 

If the wiring harness is brittle, I'd be hesitant to reuse it unless you don't mind going in there down the line to replace it when you start having other issues. Its your time and money.

There really isn't much worth "simplifying" in the rats nest if you plan to be sequential. There is plenty worth testing though. Dgeesman had an excellent thread on how to test solenoids that you should search for.

While you are in there, it would be a perfect time to have you injectors cleaned (Witchhunter.com) and replace the Fuel Pulsation Dampener and fuel hoses (Fuel Recall kit from Malloy Mazda) and do the coolant hoses (~$160 for the full kit from Malloy Mazda) and new OEM clamps (especially on those hard to reach hoses like the turbo coolant and TB lines.

 

Good to know.

In terms of "simplifications (delete double throttle, AWS, EGR, secondary air....", does this affect smog passing?

 

Alright well I went to go meet another FD owner tonight to trade lower seat portions. He is more experienced than I am and he had a couple suggestions for me.

He told me to delete the AST altogether, he has ran that setup on street/track for 2 years and never had any problems. He said I should upgrade the radiator as well. And like many others, recommended the PowerFC if I plan on doing any upgrades in the future.

He also strongly strongly recommended going non-sequential. I have considered this, but was worried about passing the emissions test in Ontario...however there is ways around that I think I will pursue.

And the harness isn't really that bad, I know I said its brittle but I only really broke one clip or two I think. And that was just because I was getting frustrated and got a little destructive in there lol It should be fine. I am entertaining the idea of running a simplified non-sequential setup though, seems like a good way to go.

Joe.

 

http://www.bakerprecision.com/hosetech.htm

 

I have looked at that, its really expensive compared to other vendors. But I guess its the best.

How much should I get to run the most simplified non-sequential setup?

I was told 30ft 4mm and 15ft 6mm for a normal setup. So like 10ft 4mm and 5ft 6mm or what? I just don't want to spend tons of money on all this hose and have a bunch leftover.

Joe.

 

whats interesting is i did a vacuum hose job 3-4 years ago when the solenoids werent so brittle. I got lazy and only did the easy to reach lines. This is what happened when i pulled them recently. The easier ones to reach didnt break as much. I dont know if that was because i had silicone hoses on them, or they are further away from heat. or if its just coincidence. :-)

 

dont forget in ontario you can fail and still pass emissions..it's called a conditional pass, it's when you go to a test/repair center after you spend i think it is $400 to try to pass you just get a conditional pass due to the emissions improving and still better then they were..

I think it's around $400...for some people that is cheaper then doing a complete inspection and trying to replace things for hundreds more to still fail..

It's on the drive clean website..I used that to my advantage on my FD..

just some food for thought...

 

Yeah I have read about that before. But that is still $400, I can "pass" my e-test for a lot less that that, if you know what I mean.

 

Use 3.5mm hose rather than 4mm. They will stay on better, and you'll have less chance of blowing one off under boost.

 

Alright that makes sense, how much should I buy?

 

Hosetechniques is also excellent quality silicone hose....

http://www.hosetechniques.com/silicone-vacuum-hose-c-1

 

Deleting the Double Throttle does not affect emissions/smog.

Deleting the other stuff does.

 

Its up to you really. The Air Separation Tank does a good job of removing air bubbles from the system. Removing it doesn't make the car any more reliable. I don't run one currently but sometimes wish I did.

A radiator is nice to have especially if your is original and 17 years old. The Fluidyne is a drop in that does not interfere with anything else and works very well. The Koyo is more difficult to fit b/c of its thickness. This has been documented many times and you can read old threads on the topic by Searching.

The PFC is only as good as the tune that is on it so it really depends on your plans for the car. The chipped or piggy back ECUs are a great option for a certain set of mods. This is a topic that has also received a fair amount of discussion with both Mahjik and myself weighing in on the topic if you want to search using our user names.


Non-seq sucks IMO. You won't make boost until 3,800 RPMs or so. The nice thing about the sequential system is that you have instant power throughout the entire RPM band and it is very responsive. The draw back is that it is more complicated.


That depends on your need to pass smog. Simplified sequential removes some smog items IIRC. FAQ should have a thread on that.