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Secondary injectors aren't working i think the electric OMP neither

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Old Jan 22, 2009 | 03:12 PM
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Secondary injectors aren't working i think the electric OMP neither

I've overheated my fc. i have a 90 convertible non turbo. I got a used 13b and put it in my fc. The primary injectors are working, the engine starts but it stops. Checkin what might be, i realized the secondary injectors aren't working.So i've checked harness' grounds, main relay, etc. the possible things the manual mention, without any positive results. No signal at all on the sec injector's connector. Also the OMP lines are empty and it seems the oil is gettin up TOO slow. I think it's related to the injectors' thing. Any ideas what might be? Thanks.
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 11:16 AM
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If memory serves me right, the secondaries don't fire till 3500 or so.

The omp drips oil into your engine, it doesn't use high pressure high velocity tactics to force it in. The fact that it is filling slow is fine, don't rev high until its fully filled. If you are worried you can run premix for a tank until its full.

Why was the OMP lines empty? Are one of the lines broken? The stock OMP lines get very very brittle with age.
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 04:54 PM
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He's right the secondaries don't kick on till around 3500, those omp should not be empty. check all the vacuum line that powers it, and I probably would try running some pre mix as well especially if there was no oil in the lines , most likely it is shutting off due to a vac leak.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by farberio
If memory serves me right, the secondaries don't fire till 3500 or so.

The omp drips oil into your engine, it doesn't use high pressure high velocity tactics to force it in. The fact that it is filling slow is fine, don't rev high until its fully filled. If you are worried you can run premix for a tank until its full.

Why was the OMP lines empty? Are one of the lines broken? The stock OMP lines get very very brittle with age.
Thanks farberio. The lines are empty cause they are new. I replaced 2 of them because a broke them . When i took out the omp the lines got empty, that's why. I really don't know what happened yesterday, but now the car is running fine.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by projectD/SanMarcos
He's right the secondaries don't kick on till around 3500, those omp should not be empty. check all the vacuum line that powers it, and I probably would try running some pre mix as well especially if there was no oil in the lines , most likely it is shutting off due to a vac leak.
Thanks projectD, i'll check the vacuum lines. i remember there's one that is kind of broken. What type of oil should i use for pre mix, a 2 time motor oil or the normal oil the car use? The car now is running good. if i take out the maf sensor the engine donesn't die. if i put the maf it dies. Thanks.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 03:06 PM
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when ever i use pre mix i get 2 stroke oil (like for a gas weed eater or 2 stroke dirt bike) and mix it half the oil with 1 gallon of gas in a gas can. Then add that to a tank of gas when ever you fill it up. Be careful when replacing those vac lines that 4 way splitter can break very easily. do you have another or access to a maf to swap with it. that is usually the easiest way to check if it is bad. Where about in mexico are you located. im going down there for a month in august
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by projectD/SanMarcos
when ever i use pre mix i get 2 stroke oil (like for a gas weed eater or 2 stroke dirt bike) and mix it half the oil with 1 gallon of gas in a gas can. Then add that to a tank of gas when ever you fill it up. Be careful when replacing those vac lines that 4 way splitter can break very easily. do you have another or access to a maf to swap with it. that is usually the easiest way to check if it is bad. Where about in mexico are you located. im going down there for a month in august
Thanks for the info. i realized when i don´t connect the maf sensor the engine starts and gets steady in 3,000 rpm, it doesn´t dies. When i connect the maf sensor(to the comp.) it dies, but if i rpm it, doesn´t die. i think it might be an air leak. I´m checking it tomorrow. I´m from Monterrey city, Nuevo Leon state.
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 02:49 PM
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I am going to be going to Guadalajara , I want to drive my 7 is that a good idea? does your engine seam to completly die out around 1200 rpm after it warms up with the maf sensor in? It sounds like your maf sensor is good. do you have any intake mods? If you havent replaced every vacume line under the hood then thats what I would do next. My car was having the exact same problem and when I did that it corrected the idle problem.
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by projectD/SanMarcos
I am going to be going to Guadalajara , I want to drive my 7 is that a good idea? does your engine seam to completly die out around 1200 rpm after it warms up with the maf sensor in? It sounds like your maf sensor is good. do you have any intake mods? If you havent replaced every vacume line under the hood then thats what I would do next. My car was having the exact same problem and when I did that it corrected the idle problem.
Well, i drove my 7 from mexico city up to monterrey, is like 1000km with no problems. If your 7 is fine, you'll have no problems. I've checked the maf and it's good. The engine, even cold, it dies. but if i rpm it, it doesn't dies. i have no mods. in my intake. I took out the fuel rail and realized that the front sec. injector(near the water pump) was dry and the other one was wet. I'll change the vacuum lines for new ones. Thanks ProjectD.
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 07:57 AM
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that fuel injector might be bad. you should check the wiring to see if it is working most likely thats the problem. how were the primary injectors?
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by projectD/SanMarcos
that fuel injector might be bad. you should check the wiring to see if it is working most likely thats the problem. how were the primary injectors?
I'm going to check again the wiring of primary and sec. injectors. I can check the primary injector turning on the key right? I think the front rotor isn't workin, i mean the injectors( primary sec.). I use premix like you toldd me to, and took out the intake and saw that the front injectors were all dry( prim. and sec.) and the back injectors were oily( intake too). i've change the vacuum lines, and changed too part of the intake. I didn't realized that i installed the first time part the intake of the 90 fc. and it's different, but i've solved the problem and the engine doesn't shake anymore. i hope in this days fix my fc, if not, i'm gonna shoot myself. Thanks projectD.
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Old Feb 5, 2009 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by projectD/SanMarcos
that fuel injector might be bad. you should check the wiring to see if it is working most likely thats the problem. how were the primary injectors?
Yesterday i checked the primary injectors and both are working fine, and the primary injectors' harness have signal. The secondary injectors' harness are the one that have no signal. I rpm the engine up to 4000rpm and have no signal at all in the harness, both injectors. the sec. injectors' resistance are good too.
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 12:30 PM
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Secondary Injector Check

It is easy to check the secondary injectors by back-probing them at the ECU. With the ignition on and the hood up, ground the injector pin at the ECU to open the injector. Go through all your injectors and each one will click when you ground the wire. You will most likely flood your engine when doing this, so be prepared to de-flood if it doesn't fire up right away.

It still sounds like you have a vac leak if in regards to your starting issue, because you can keep it running by playing with the throttle. I'd check all the piping again. Do you have a modified throttle body with the thermowax removed? A side effect of that mod is that you have to hold the gas down until the engine warms up.
Hope this helps.
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