kevyn_rx7

iTrader: (9)

as said.. s5 T-II.
full 3" exhast w/ no cats. stock tid w/ cone filter. aftermarket fcd. removed acv. hks bov.

the car used to have a jumpy/high idle between 2,2k and 2,5k rpm's. now stays around 2,2 after cleaning the bac. now, even with a very light touch on the gas pedal (up to 3k rpm's), the car will bog out a little. i tried adjusting the tps with my multimeter but that didn't help at all. i have it set at around 1.8k ohms now (car wouldn't even start up when it was set at 1.3k ohms) and was previously set closer to 2k ohms (before i did this, the car would accelerate without issues). i think i need to just go ahead and triple check all the vacuum lines and even do the vacuum rack removal and replace fuel lines). at this point i'm stumped.. i've searched through a ton of different posts here and i haven't been able to pinpoint my problem. unless the problem is vacuum related or course...

any ideas? similar past experiences? anything?

thanks

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The TPS needs to be set to factory spec, which is 1.0K fully closed.

Are you sure you were adjusting the narrow range TPS? And was the car fully warmed up?

kevyn_rx7

iTrader: (9)

the car was not warmed up... i didn't realize it needed to be until after i was messing with it. i'll try that later though. thanks

cone_crushr

iTrader: (18)

Why such a high idle speed? Does your car surge if the idle is below 1000 RPM

kevyn_rx7

iTrader: (9)

i wouldn't know... the idle won't drop.

hioctane-dtc

iTrader: (1)

It could be twisted throttle cable that causes binding, but it could also be the cruise control cable as it runs parellel to the main throttle cable.

However, there are also three other possibilities:
- Dirty throttle body cause the throttle plate being stuck
- Thermowax failure
- Clogged coolant passages causing thermowax not to disengage properly

Check on the problem section of fc3spro.com for a more detailed information on high idle problem, good luck!

kevyn_rx7

iTrader: (9)

thank you! i'll look into it.
i recently cleaned out the TB so i'm going to rule that out for now. but i will look into the others.
is it possible that dirty injectors/fuel filter could be to blame? i pulled off my injectors for the first time tonight and they were pretty messed up to say the least... and it doesn't look like the fuel filter has ever been changed... i'll be looking into a new one tomorrow.

kevyn_rx7

iTrader: (9)

oh yeah...
tonight i began tearing off the vacuum rack and found that pretty much ALL of the vacuum lines were stiff and would crack and break without effort.
i'm following this walk through:
http://rotaryresurrection.com/2ndgen...s_removal.html
with the exception of modding the TB and removing the BAC. (i plan on removing the bac when i fabricate a block off plate for it)
this walk through shows you how to remove the coolant passage and thermowax.. would it be wise to remove these?

thanks!

hioctane-dtc

iTrader: (1)

It could be your vacuum lines, since vacuum leaks would lead to high idle.

Injectors have to do more with throttle response(correct me if I'm wrong). So I don't think it would cause your idle to be high since you're not stepping on the pedal. Nonetheless, you should definitely get the injectors and fuel filters changed.

Here's the link to the fc3s.com problem section for high idle, it has two subsections that shows you how to do a Throttle body mod, and what to look for when there's a intake vacuum leak.

http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/PROBLEMS...DLE/hiidle.htm

Also, there are "New owner guides" on the web which are very helpful. Aaron's site has a good list of what to do after getting your FC(what maintainece to do, what needs to be changed, etc). I'll attached the link below so you can take a look too.

http://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/newowner.htm
http://www.fc3spro.com/TECH/FAQ/tuneup.html


As for removing the coolant lines and thermowax.... I'm not a mechanic so can't give you professional advice. However, my suggestion is not to do these until you're clear of what you want.

My way of doing modding/tuning is that, I get the car back into top healthy condition first. Then according to what I want the car to become(street, track, daily drive, etc), I will then gather all the information and data relating to such mod/tune, and slowly work towards it.

If you're confident with your mechanical skills, have the right tools and repair manual, as well as the guides.... then I suppose trying it out wouldn't be any problem.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

The cold start cam holds the throttle plates open a little bit when cold, so this is why the car needs to be warmed up. Adjusting to a cold car basically puts the TPS out of adjustment.