I aquired a 87 tii chassis from a kid that was getting ready to put a ls in it, I'd hate to beat something up I know has been covered. But the fact is I have searched a thousand times and have yet to come across the answer I need. I'm curious I plan on running a haltech EM system, and various bolt on goodies, but not to get off track my question. What other electrical would I have to get myself involved in to make the car run and have my gauges operate normally.

Thanks in advance I appreciate all feedback

 

From what I remember,slice into the Engine harness..take the wiper harness out as it is/was part of the harness.
Toss the rest of that harness aside.
Use the fluid sensors on the engine and keep them plugged in to run the gauges.
The Haltech will run the TPS,ignition and fuel system.

You can find more info on that EMS in the Haltech section.

 

Ok cool that being said I guess I have to do that even though I plan on getting the terminated harness kit, prolly should have specified that I apologize

 

since the harness for the ecu is universal they do not know that you need to run wipers.It is not part of what the ecu would run anyways as it is body related.

 

Awesome thanks for the knowledge, always wanted one of these cars finally got one now it's a whole new learning curve, I'm use to solid axle swapped Toyota trucks

 

You would have to repinout your entire wiring harness, if your up to it, be my guest.

 

and why is that?
I DID what this Member is asking and did not have to touch the wiring harness.
I just needed the wiper harness as it was part of the engine harness.

 

can you explain what harness would need to repined Michael

 

I somewhat covered this in my build thread here: https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...tormas-888195/

Tachometer: Signal comes from Trailing Coil, Not Affected by a Standalone
Temperature Gauge: Signal is from Rear Iron Coolant Sensor (underneath oil filter, the non bell-shaped one) Not Affected by a Standalone
Oil Pressure: Signal is from Rear Iron Oil Pressure Sensor (bell-shaped sensor under oil filter). Not Affected by a Standalone
Fuel Gauge: Signal comes from fuel tank, Not Affected by a Standalone
Factory Boost Gauge: Signal comes from ECU, will not work with a Standalone. Better to invest in a proper boost gauge anyway
Speedometer: driven by cable from transmission, Not Affected by a Standalone

The good news is that since you're intending to do this on a S4 (86-88), it will be pretty straightforward. After extracting the Windshield Wiper subharness, you won't need the rest of the Emission Harness as a whole. The only exception is that you'll have to run a new wire to the Rear Iron Coolant Sensor. While I don't like the idea of cutting up a perfectly good T2 Emission Harness just to retrieve one connector, the FEM-01 & FEM-02 connectors are rather annoying to find. My solution is to splice into the harness behind the connector and run what you need over to a more available connector. Generally speaking, my go-to connector is a Delphi Metripack 150 series, OE equipment on practically any GM product. 2-10 terminals, up to 15 amps per terminal and you can crimp them with a regular crimper with a little finesse-ing using needle nose pliers.

The Rear Iron temperature sensor is the Yellow/Blue wire in connector FEM-01 (FEM-02 for NA cars). On the Emission Harness side of these connectors, it turns into a Yellow/White wire