this is pissing me off. i bought my 87 rx7 non turbo and it ran fine after of course i put new spark plugs/wires, fixed exahaust hook and cleaned the horns. the day i drive it home it all just stops. it will try to start but will never fire. i heard from a friend that it could be the CRANK ANGLE SENSOR. however since this is a rotary and i no nothing about them i would like a second opinion before i spend $350 on this little part.

 

did u just stop in the middle of the road? or when u tried to turn it back on it didnt start? Engine Cold? or hot?

 

Sounds like you got it home & it was running fine but you can't get it start now. Unlikely anything changed with the CAS. If you smell gas when you try to start it, it might be flooded...and rotaries won't unflood using piston engine methods. Check out this tech article.
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/2n...nflooding.html

Good luck.

 

Oh, yeah. I forgot to mention that it's a great write-up, but the suggested 1/2 cup per rotor is way too much. 1/2 ounce should be plenty. There is debate about oil or ATF. Personally, I prefer oil, which gets injected into the engine anyway.

 

DO NOT USE ATF TO BUILD COMPRESSION! It WILL eat your seals, and you WILL have to rebuild it. Just use a teaspoon of mineral oil in each of the lower spark plug holes, if you choose to try that method. Can you give us any more specs on the engine? Such as milage, condition, compression test readings, ever been over heated, last oil change, OMP still functional, etc..?

 

Sorry for the multiple posts. This tech article at Rotary Performance is actually the one I meant to send. http://www.rx7.com/techarticles_unfloodFC.html

 

Doe NOT sound like a CAS to me..

 

Did the engine turned off while it was idling, or while you were accelarating?

Does the engine turn when you try to start it, or not at all?

 

It's an 87 non turbo 1.3 liter rotary 125xxx miles. I was like 100 ft from my house and it just cut out. Everything turns over but no start. No smell of gasoline. So confusing.

 

Engine was normal temp for running when this happend.

 

I was accelerateing. And yes it does.

 

From what you have described, I'd lean toward the CAS, too. If the fuel pump had cut out for some reason, the engine should have died slowly as the fuel pressure bled down.

Of all the engine sensors, only the CAS has no failsafe mode in the ECU. Without the CAS, the ECU will not send out any signals to fire the plugs or the injectors because it has no timing signal.

Before buying a CAS, I suggest first to disconnect the CAS plug & check the connector terminals for dirt / oil / oxidation and both connectors for damaged wires. If you're lucky, that's all it is. If not, there is a procedure in the service manual (Haynes or Factory) to check the CAS resistance. There are also instructions online for how to build and use a diagnostic code checker. Parts are available at Radio Shack for < $20. http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/ERRORC...KI/zerror.html

 

Vapor lock?

It occurs when the liquid fuel changes state from liquid to gas while still in the fuel delivery system. This disrupts the operation of the fuel pump, causing loss of feed pressure to the carburetor or fuel injection system, resulting in transient loss of power or complete stalling. Restarting the engine from this state may be difficult.

The fuel can vaporize due to being heated by the engine, by the local climate or due to a lower boiling point at high altitude. In regions where higher volatility fuels are used during the winter to improve the starting of the engine, the use of "winter" fuels during the summer can cause vapor lock to occur more readil