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Rough idle with my FD

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Old 08-01-17, 07:57 PM
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Rough idle with my FD

Hi!
I'm having an issue with the idle of my FD, here is the story behind it, to help understand the situation:
The car travelled from Japan to Spain then to France, car didn't start for around 3 months I think, of course when I collected the car, the battery was mostly dead, I figured it was time to replace it, I was shocked when I discovered the guy placed a 28AH battery ! (probably for weight saving...), I went to buy another battery, but could only find a 35AH for the exact same size (seems like battery has been relocated and bigger won't fit!), car started and running, but I'm having like a rough idle when car just starting, revs jump from 2k to 800, I can hear some pops from the exhaust, and the battery warning light comes on and off, then it gets stable after few minutes to 800 and everything goes well.
Problem is, if I turn off the car, and starting it on again, car is still, of course, warm, but the problem occurs again to the point I would randomly stall, unless I wait another few minutes before cruising...

Facts:
-All the ignition system has been changed before car has been shipped.
-Engine has been checked and tuned by R-Magic before shipping.

I was thinking it could be a battery capacity problem, but I'm not sure.

Any suggestion?
Thanks!

Last edited by Xanathos; 08-01-17 at 09:43 PM.
Old 08-02-17, 04:55 PM
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The first thing I would do is grab a known good battery and rig it up just to eliminate that variable. Doesn't have to be mounted just functional. Move on from there.
Old 08-03-17, 01:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Pete Klassen
The first thing I would do is grab a known good battery and rig it up just to eliminate that variable. Doesn't have to be mounted just functional. Move on from there.
The 35AH battery I bought is brand new.
Old 08-03-17, 11:55 AM
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There's a lot of variables you need to rule out. First place i would start with any engine related issue is to do a compression test. That gives you a baseline on the health of your engine.

Next would be checking your fuel system. Check your fuel pressure at the fuel rail and check to see if your injectors are clogged. If it's been sitting for some time, it probably wouldn't hurt to send out your injectors for cleaning as well as replacing your fuel filter. Check the fuel sock at the pump. If that's gunky, you may need to clean your fuel tank.

Next is your ignition system. Are you getting good spark from your plugs. Are your plugs fouled. Check your coils per the FSM. Is you alternator putting out good voltage.

Next is the control system. Are there any vacuum leaks. Are there any bad solenoids or actuators. What ECU are you running. Is your TPS w/i spec. Is your MAP sensor hooked up. Etc.

Good luck
Old 08-03-17, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by TomU
There's a lot of variables you need to rule out. First place i would start with any engine related issue is to do a compression test. That gives you a baseline on the health of your engine.

Next would be checking your fuel system. Check your fuel pressure at the fuel rail and check to see if your injectors are clogged. If it's been sitting for some time, it probably wouldn't hurt to send out your injectors for cleaning as well as replacing your fuel filter. Check the fuel sock at the pump. If that's gunky, you may need to clean your fuel tank.

Next is your ignition system. Are you getting good spark from your plugs. Are your plugs fouled. Check your coils per the FSM. Is you alternator putting out good voltage.

Next is the control system. Are there any vacuum leaks. Are there any bad solenoids or actuators. What ECU are you running. Is your TPS w/i spec. Is your MAP sensor hooked up. Etc.

Good luck

Engine is healthy:




Old 08-03-17, 04:05 PM
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It Just Feels Right

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Originally Posted by Xanathos
Engine is healthy:
One variable discounted
Old 08-03-17, 09:15 PM
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Each box (I, II, III) shows the compression on of each rotor face.

This picture appears to show 07.5, 07.5 and 0_.6 (blown?).

Was it 07.5, 07.5 and 07.6 but the display blinks so the camera didn't pick up the 7 on the 07.6?
Old 08-03-17, 09:22 PM
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Watched a video with that older Mazda tester and yeah, it just looks like the individual #s do blink very rapidly, so the camera probably caught the lower one when it was off.




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