satch

iTrader: (1)

Doing it by the starter won't help. How much did you rotate the main pulley as it has to be a fair amount. And are you sure the meter lead is making good contact as this is one measurement which seems to give others problems (reading could also be taken from the ECU), or you could also unplug the connector at the coil for better access as it does not need to be plugged in to take a proper reading.

Rough 7

It's definitely a tricky spot to get a good reading. I rotated it plenty, but it's worth another check to see if the reading was faulty. If it's not getting the full 5v, what would be next to check?

Not sure if I can get to this again tonight, hopefully, but tomorrow for sure.

Cheers.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You would want to make sure the CAS connection is good and clean. Pin 1V of the ECU is the G/Y wire.

Rough 7

Ok, back at it... definitely nothing over 0.3v when hand cranked at said g/y wire up near the coil. CAS connection looks solid.

Not sure what's meant by 'pin 1v of ecu is the g/y wire', if you're willing to explain.

Still wondering in my novice thought process that the ecu might be the culprit when you include the tach issue (which originally brought me to the coils). Thoughts?

Thanks.

DC5Daniel

iTrader: (10)

Are you familiar with the factory service manual, which is available for download for free at various websites? There are a few links in the stickies, but just Googling Fc3s FSM you'll find it in the top results.

This test you are performing should be fingering the CAS as your culprit. Thankfully they are also cheap, and very easy to change. I don't recall, did you ever mention restabbing the CAS? This term refers to the factory procedure of aligning the CAS.

Rough 7

Daniel, appreciate the tip. I used to have one, but it disintegrated over time... and honestly wasn't expecting this to be such an ordeal. Will take a look.

satch

iTrader: (1)

There are three plugs at the ECU with plug #1 being the largest. It has a Green/Yellow wire which runs to the lead coil (2nd wire from end of plug and bottom row). If you back stab the wire from the rear of the plug you get a top notch connection and it reduces the chance of a bad read at the coil. Plug is connected to ECU for this test and w/key to on.

You could ohm test the CAS at the ECU. One meter lead goes to pin 1N (Green wire) and the other lead to pin 1P (Blue wire) and this is done w/the plug removed and the ohm reading should be between 110 to 210 ohms. Same test is performed using pins 1T (Red wire) and 1Q (White wire).

Rough 7

Thanks Satch, will give it a shot and post the results. Cheers.

DC5Daniel

iTrader: (10)

I never finished my original thought process. I mentioned the FSM because it has a section with ECU pinout and wire color, which you were asking about. It also has troubleshooting procedures, which Satch is doing an excellent job walking you through, but also has visuals.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

..and just to add that you can find the Factory Service Manual at Foxed.ca

Rough 7

Gents, first all of the input is great and much appreciated. I did DL the FSM and it looks like section 5 is my ticket and I'll go back over the published tests if needed.

That said, this is what I found regarding Satch's tests (the last round of which I haven't found in the FSM yet, probably looking in the wrong place).

Ohm gauge measured ~160 ohms across the red and white wire connection
4.5 ohms across green and blue wires (right next to each other on the top row)
0.3V with the positive on the G/Y wire and negative grounded

Thoughts?

Again, thanks for the feedback, sorry to be a pain!

Rough 7

Also, the voltage test on the g/y wire was done with everything plugged in and the ignition set to 'on'. The ohm tests were performed with the ignition on 'on' and the ecu plug removed.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The ohm test providing the 4.5 ohms reading is just off, so there is obviously something suspicious there for either it is the CAS or it is the CAS plugs involved, as there are two of them. The best thing to do is unplug the CAS and focus on the two wires which didn't pass the ohm test and see if you get the same readings or not (you're taking the ohm readings from the CAS pigtail, so the wires coming directly out of the CAS are to be measured). If it passes then the wiring to the ECU is suspect. If the CAS does not pass the ohm test then it is the fault of the CAS.

Secondly, ohm tests do not involve voltage, so turning the key to on is a no no, although it doesn't come into play here since you had the plug at the ECU housing the CAS wires disconnected.

Rough 7

Ok, I ran the tests wrong. With everything plugged in, but key not in the ignition I'm getting the following numbers:

Red/White wires read 160 ohms
blue and green wires read 3350 ohms

Rough 7

Those readings are right at the ECU.

satch

iTrader: (1)

But the readings were okay at the CAS and at the engine harness side of the plug? And when you say plugged in you mean w/the ECU plug unplugged?

Rough 7

At the ECU, the largest plug - plug #1 (as referenced above) is plugged in, (so it's connected with the ECU, or another example: like I'm charging my iphone by plugging it in) and I'm taking readings by poking the volt meter into the back. That's where I am getting 160 ohms across the red/white wires and 3350 across the blue/green ones.


In the engine bay, right near the CAS the affiliated plug includes the following wires: red, green, white and black/white on one side of the plug that runs straight into the CAS. When I run a ohms test between the red/white on this side of the plug it reads 160 ohms and then again with the green and black/white wires it reads 160 ohms again. On the other side of the same plug there are red, white, green and blue wires. When I run the meter across the blue/green wires it reads 160 ohms and red/white it reads 160 ohms. So doesn't seem to have much trouble there, although I didn't run a test from one side of the plug to the connected wire on the other side (red to red, white to white, etc.).

In all of these tests the key was out of the ignition.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The plug should not be connected to the ECU and that is where you need to retest your readings. Do you understand that it is not supposed to be plugged in at the ECU for it interferes with the test. So, unplug it and take the test in a proper fashion.

Rough 7

No, did not catch that. Retesting.

Rough 7

Ok retest:
At the ECU with it unplugged:
Blue and Green wires 238 ohms
Red and White 162

At the CAS 160 ohms across the board.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The upper range should be 210 ohms so it's close but not sure if it's a red flag or not. I would lean to it not being an issue versus it being an issue.

Secondly, when you tested the G/Y wire at the ECU

1. Did you have the key to on.
2. Was the ECU plug connected to the ECU.
3. What did you use as a ground source for the meter.
4. Did you do this test by yourself, and if so, did you have the meter in the engine bay so you could read its result.

Rough 7

Key was to on, ecu was connected and used multiple grounds to see if the numbers varied, ended up using a bolt connected to the chassis. I'm still getting 0.15V at the g/y wire at the ecu. The meter is right next to me, clear to see. Sometimes it'll range to 0.17 or 0.13, but that's about it. I'm putting the volt meter right into the wire at the back of the plug, seems like a good connection.

satch

iTrader: (1)

How much is the main pulley being turned. Is it at least a full turn. And you could use pin 3A (found in the smallest plug top right position, Black wire) of the ECU for the meter ground. And if need be try unplugging the lead coil from the plug w/the B/Y and G/Y wires.