Reliable budget rotary build
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Reliable budget rotary build
what would be an ideal way to build a reliable 13b?im hoping to get an fc sometime in the future and i'd like to make it as reliable as i can on a budget of $3k. Im leaning more towards an na build but a reliable turbo build would be cool too.
I also made a parts list for a(hopefully) reliable na build i would like some tips on if anyone can help with that
thanks
I also made a parts list for a(hopefully) reliable na build i would like some tips on if anyone can help with that
thanks
#2
Have RX-7, will restore
iTrader: (91)
Moved to the new member tech section.
An N/A would be your best bet in my opinion. Rebuild it with quality parts and make sure the parts that you're reusing are well within spec. Replace any internal part that questionable and be sure to install new rotor and stationary gear bearings. Be sure to adhere to the torque specs and sequences. Rebuild it by the book.
An N/A would be your best bet in my opinion. Rebuild it with quality parts and make sure the parts that you're reusing are well within spec. Replace any internal part that questionable and be sure to install new rotor and stationary gear bearings. Be sure to adhere to the torque specs and sequences. Rebuild it by the book.
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clearbones (04-21-22)
#3
Newbie
Thread Starter
Moved to the new member tech section.
An N/A would be your best bet in my opinion. Rebuild it with quality parts and make sure the parts that you're reusing are well within spec. Replace any internal part that questionable and be sure to install new rotor and stationary gear bearings. Be sure to adhere to the torque specs and sequences. Rebuild it by the book.
An N/A would be your best bet in my opinion. Rebuild it with quality parts and make sure the parts that you're reusing are well within spec. Replace any internal part that questionable and be sure to install new rotor and stationary gear bearings. Be sure to adhere to the torque specs and sequences. Rebuild it by the book.
how much power can you make with like a level 1 rebuild with quality parts and are there any brands you'd recommend for parts? ive been looking at atkins but dont know too much about them
#4
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
welcome to the board.
i'm not sure what you mean by "level 1" rebuild, but assuming you mean bare bones, cleaned and spec'd with stock ports and new seals, then you're probably looking at stock to stock-ish power. keep in mind "power" is something you would have to extract from the engine by modification - whether bolt-on, internal or both.
i haven't had any issues with Atkins parts. if you go that route, i'd recommend swapping out their apex seal springs for OEM. once upon a time, that was the way to go, but the truth is i don't know if that's still the case. OEM parts are costly (and will quickly kill your $3,000 budget), but they have the distinct advantage of being the parts Mazda used, so there's that.
i'm not sure what you mean by "level 1" rebuild, but assuming you mean bare bones, cleaned and spec'd with stock ports and new seals, then you're probably looking at stock to stock-ish power. keep in mind "power" is something you would have to extract from the engine by modification - whether bolt-on, internal or both.
i haven't had any issues with Atkins parts. if you go that route, i'd recommend swapping out their apex seal springs for OEM. once upon a time, that was the way to go, but the truth is i don't know if that's still the case. OEM parts are costly (and will quickly kill your $3,000 budget), but they have the distinct advantage of being the parts Mazda used, so there's that.
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clearbones (04-21-22)
#5
Rotary Enthusiast
decent headers, exhaust, intake and proper rebuild with street port should get you 225hp or so IMO and reliable.
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clearbones (04-21-22)
#6
Newbie
Thread Starter
welcome to the board.
i'm not sure what you mean by "level 1" rebuild, but assuming you mean bare bones, cleaned and spec'd with stock ports and new seals, then you're probably looking at stock to stock-ish power. keep in mind "power" is something you would have to extract from the engine by modification - whether bolt-on, internal or both.
i haven't had any issues with Atkins parts. if you go that route, i'd recommend swapping out their apex seal springs for OEM. once upon a time, that was the way to go, but the truth is i don't know if that's still the case. OEM parts are costly (and will quickly kill your $3,000 budget), but they have the distinct advantage of being the parts Mazda used, so there's that.
i'm not sure what you mean by "level 1" rebuild, but assuming you mean bare bones, cleaned and spec'd with stock ports and new seals, then you're probably looking at stock to stock-ish power. keep in mind "power" is something you would have to extract from the engine by modification - whether bolt-on, internal or both.
i haven't had any issues with Atkins parts. if you go that route, i'd recommend swapping out their apex seal springs for OEM. once upon a time, that was the way to go, but the truth is i don't know if that's still the case. OEM parts are costly (and will quickly kill your $3,000 budget), but they have the distinct advantage of being the parts Mazda used, so there's that.
yea thats what i meant by a level 1 rebuild, its what ive seen people call oem+ rebuilds(better way to call it thinking about it now), but thanks.
another quick question, how much power could you get from a mild street port and do they affect reliability?
Last edited by clearbones; 04-21-22 at 01:40 PM.
#7
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
if my memory serves, people used to say between 10 and 15%. once again, keep in mind that that's not by itself though. it will assume basic mods - an exhaust system being the most fundamental of them.
if done correctly, and in moderation, there's nothing inherently less reliable about streetporting. some people may feel it necessary to beat on the engine more, but as long as lubrication and cooling are good, then so should the engine.
if done correctly, and in moderation, there's nothing inherently less reliable about streetporting. some people may feel it necessary to beat on the engine more, but as long as lubrication and cooling are good, then so should the engine.
Last edited by diabolical1; 04-21-22 at 04:00 PM.
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clearbones (04-21-22)
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