Regular maintainence How-to's on a FD
12-12-09, 11:29 AM
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Regular maintainence How-to's on a FD
I finally got my own garage and some basic tools, so I can work on (or try to at least) my FD now. I was hoping to find a step-by-step guide with pics for the following tasks, but I couldn't find any.
Oil/Filter change
Plugs/Wires change
Coolant flush
I understand that those are elementary tasks, but I have never performed them on a FD myself and don't want to mess it up (I've done those on a prelude however). I do have the service manual on pdf, but it's rather ambiguous and I want to learn how to do it right the first time.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
Oil/Filter change
Plugs/Wires change
Coolant flush
I understand that those are elementary tasks, but I have never performed them on a FD myself and don't want to mess it up (I've done those on a prelude however). I do have the service manual on pdf, but it's rather ambiguous and I want to learn how to do it right the first time.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
12-12-09, 01:07 PM
#2
Hmm, sounds like a good project for me. No pics, you'll have to go by words alone.
First, lift an FD from the front using a long low profile jack and support it on the black cradle right in front of the oil pan. On lowered cars you may want to drive it onto short ramps to make this easier. In the back, lift using the textured flat section under the diff that's just forward of the differential housing split. If you must lift from the sides or corner by corner, use the pinch rails carefully and at the reinforced locations only. I put my jack stands at these locations.
Oil / Filter change:
1) Remove oil drain plug and drain. I think it's a 19mm.
2) Remove oil filter. Take care to not damage the plastic MAP sensor on the firewall nearby. Depending on the brand of filter, it may drain oil as you lift it out - keep it over the pedestal for a second and have a large pan under that part of the car if you're not sure. Mazda OEM filters have a nice anti-drainback valve that keeps this clean. There isn't much room for a filter wrench, mine is one of those split type that locks around the filter in the tightening direction and it works pretty well.
Plugs/Wires
Plugs are easy, wires take a little more labor. Fortunately the wires tend to last a lot longer than the plugs. In the area of the filter, remove the black or silver plastic intake elbow. If you're doing wires, also remove the throttle body (coolant hose on the firewall side, coolant hose underneath, 4 12mm bolts to the intake manifold, TPC sensor plug, and the throttle cables). I remove and replace the wires and plugs one at a time to avoid confusion and crossed wiring. In case you get a mixed up, the "L" stands for leading and are also the Lower set of plugs. The "T" stands for trailing and is the Top set of plugs. I think the #1 rotor is in front. You can see markings on the ignition coils. If you have trouble getting the wires loose you might have to remove the oil filler neck or at least take the two flange bolts out to rotate it out of the way.
If you're just doing plugs, it can be easier to get under the car and reach in along the drivers side of the engine block. My arms are skinny, so I'll do plugs from above without removing anything. The key IMO is take your time and use a compact wrench because you'll mostly be working blind.
Coolant flush:
I "flush" coolant by draining and replacing. I use only good coolant and distilled water. FDs need to have clean fresh coolant more than most other cars. Start by opening the coolant filler cap (above the belts). Get under the car and use a large phillips head screwdriver to reach into the hole in the underbelly pan and remove the radiator drain plug. (DON'T STRIP THE THREADS!!). Coolant will gush out. Aftermarket radiators might add the convenience of a draincock valve so in that case you might need to remove the underbelly pan completely the first time.
If you're keen to get as much coolant as possible, there is a bolt in the aluminum engine housing above the oil pan and centered below the spark plugs. If you remove this you'll drain some more from the engine block. (I usually skip this because I drain the coolant enough doing other maintenance work).
If you don't have an underbelly pan, order one and install it. It's very important for cooling.
Filling is a tedious job. Replace the radiator plug and fill slowly at the filler cap. It helps to remove the upper end of the coolant hose behind the throttle body. When it fills at the cap, reach down alongside your intake and repeatedly squeeze the upper radiator hose. This helps push coolant around air out. You can also take a break and let gravity slowly relieve the air in the system. Once I'm done getting coolant in this way, I replace the cap, reconnect that coolant hose by the throttle body and take it for a short drive with extra distilled water and heavy rags with me. Once the thermostat warms open the air will all find it's way to the filler neck. Go somewhere you know well or drive around your neighborhood because if the coolant level beeper goes off you'll want to stop the engine immediately and pop the cap (carefully, use the rags so you can't get burned) and top off with water.
Another solution is to use a filler bottle that connects at the cap and then you can let the car run and warm up in the driveway and it will purge the air automatically. Every time I change coolant I swear I'll buy one and yet I still haven't bought one.
David
First, lift an FD from the front using a long low profile jack and support it on the black cradle right in front of the oil pan. On lowered cars you may want to drive it onto short ramps to make this easier. In the back, lift using the textured flat section under the diff that's just forward of the differential housing split. If you must lift from the sides or corner by corner, use the pinch rails carefully and at the reinforced locations only. I put my jack stands at these locations.
Oil / Filter change:
1) Remove oil drain plug and drain. I think it's a 19mm.
2) Remove oil filter. Take care to not damage the plastic MAP sensor on the firewall nearby. Depending on the brand of filter, it may drain oil as you lift it out - keep it over the pedestal for a second and have a large pan under that part of the car if you're not sure. Mazda OEM filters have a nice anti-drainback valve that keeps this clean. There isn't much room for a filter wrench, mine is one of those split type that locks around the filter in the tightening direction and it works pretty well.
Plugs/Wires
Plugs are easy, wires take a little more labor. Fortunately the wires tend to last a lot longer than the plugs. In the area of the filter, remove the black or silver plastic intake elbow. If you're doing wires, also remove the throttle body (coolant hose on the firewall side, coolant hose underneath, 4 12mm bolts to the intake manifold, TPC sensor plug, and the throttle cables). I remove and replace the wires and plugs one at a time to avoid confusion and crossed wiring. In case you get a mixed up, the "L" stands for leading and are also the Lower set of plugs. The "T" stands for trailing and is the Top set of plugs. I think the #1 rotor is in front. You can see markings on the ignition coils. If you have trouble getting the wires loose you might have to remove the oil filler neck or at least take the two flange bolts out to rotate it out of the way.
If you're just doing plugs, it can be easier to get under the car and reach in along the drivers side of the engine block. My arms are skinny, so I'll do plugs from above without removing anything. The key IMO is take your time and use a compact wrench because you'll mostly be working blind.
Coolant flush:
I "flush" coolant by draining and replacing. I use only good coolant and distilled water. FDs need to have clean fresh coolant more than most other cars. Start by opening the coolant filler cap (above the belts). Get under the car and use a large phillips head screwdriver to reach into the hole in the underbelly pan and remove the radiator drain plug. (DON'T STRIP THE THREADS!!). Coolant will gush out. Aftermarket radiators might add the convenience of a draincock valve so in that case you might need to remove the underbelly pan completely the first time.
If you're keen to get as much coolant as possible, there is a bolt in the aluminum engine housing above the oil pan and centered below the spark plugs. If you remove this you'll drain some more from the engine block. (I usually skip this because I drain the coolant enough doing other maintenance work).
If you don't have an underbelly pan, order one and install it. It's very important for cooling.
Filling is a tedious job. Replace the radiator plug and fill slowly at the filler cap. It helps to remove the upper end of the coolant hose behind the throttle body. When it fills at the cap, reach down alongside your intake and repeatedly squeeze the upper radiator hose. This helps push coolant around air out. You can also take a break and let gravity slowly relieve the air in the system. Once I'm done getting coolant in this way, I replace the cap, reconnect that coolant hose by the throttle body and take it for a short drive with extra distilled water and heavy rags with me. Once the thermostat warms open the air will all find it's way to the filler neck. Go somewhere you know well or drive around your neighborhood because if the coolant level beeper goes off you'll want to stop the engine immediately and pop the cap (carefully, use the rags so you can't get burned) and top off with water.
Another solution is to use a filler bottle that connects at the cap and then you can let the car run and warm up in the driveway and it will purge the air automatically. Every time I change coolant I swear I'll buy one and yet I still haven't bought one.
David
Last edited by dgeesaman; 12-12-09 at 01:12 PM.
12-22-09, 10:02 PM
#3
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First, lift an FD from the front using a long low profile jack and support it on the black cradle right in front of the oil pan. On lowered cars you may want to drive it onto short ramps to make this easier. In the back, lift using the textured flat section under the diff that's just forward of the differential housing split. If you must lift from the sides or corner by corner, use the pinch rails carefully and at the reinforced locations only. I put my jack stands at these locations.
David
David
12-23-09, 11:30 AM
#5
I use the pinch rails along the side when the long-reach spots are not available.
David
Last edited by dgeesaman; 12-23-09 at 11:33 AM.
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