JMay1990

Whats the best race fuel to run on rotary?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

loaded question.
The question for you is: what mods are you running in order to Run Race fuel?.
TIP: if you are asking Tech questions please post your Modifications and car.etc ..Give the Member's as much info as possible to get the best answer!

Evil Aviator

The purpose of racing fuel is to comply with the rules of your racing class, and to allow a highly-modified and tuned racing engine to operate properly. Just pouring racing fuel into your gas tank will do nothing but drain your wallet, and maybe even make your engine run worse. If your professional engine builder/tuner did not specify that you need to use a certain fuel, and your racing sanctioning body did not specify any special type of fuel, then you will be just fine with the fuel offered at your local gas station. Just try to stay away from the cheapie ethanol-enriched gas if you can, as it has less energy content and tends to run a little rougher. If you want cleaner running then use Top Tier gas.
http://www.toptiergas.com/

If you decide to get into competitive motorsports, then just read the rule book and talk to your tuner about which fuel to use. Also, a good general way to choose any type of racing components is to see what the top-running cars in your class are using, and then use that as a starting basis for your car.

Hatchet Jack

If your rotary is stockish: Naturally aspirated, regular. Turbo, Premium.
Also, if you're running it hard, I would add a bit of two stroke oil to the fuel just for safety. Maybe 128:1 or so.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

Q16

Evil Aviator

Actually, the Turbo II is rated for regular unleaded if you keep it pretty much stock. Many people do not realize this and completely waste their money for no reason.

That's a great example of fuel that will ruin your car if you don't know what you are doing. However, my favorite bonehead fuel is 100LL AVGAS, because not only will it ruin your car, but you could get a $10K fine if you get caught using it.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

yep, i ran 87 in my TII when i was on the stock turbo back when i had to commute 100 miles a day, tested it up to about 9psi before the knock levels rose to unsafe levels.

my RX8 n/a on the other hand... it detonates on anything under 91 octane. oh so far have we come from the days of putting the lowest octane you could find in the older rotaries.

Evil Aviator

That was always a misconception anyway. It just so happened that the lower-octane race fuel used by Downing Atlanta had a higher energy content and/or more optimal burning speed than the other approved fuels. It had nothing to do with the octane rating. It would be like painting your car green, thinking that green is the fastest color for rotary-powered cars because the Kudzu is green.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

really? I started running 87 in mine for the last few years and haven't experienced any so far. interesting ....

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

wait for the hard starting to occur and loss of compression to set in due to the chrome wear from the added stress. it's not something you can really feel, you may hear it stutter ever so slightly but it is in fact detonating before the knock sensor dials it back in. the downside is the timing figures are hard mapped, it will always act the same and rely on the knock sensor to retard timing when it does knock, and it is too slow to react. maybe some of the later models or re-mapped vehicles have cured it but i noticed it in my '04, to my knowledge it hasn't been reflashed.

i did try it for a short while and the car got progressively more difficult to start when hot.

if you don't ever really push the car hard you likely will not notice it, it seems to really pick up in the mid range at about 4-5k at WOT. so for long trips or simple commutes 87 octane would probably be ok, if you drove the car at the track hard for even a single day you might wind up needing an engine by the time it got shut off. as far as i'm concerned, heed the label by your gas filler cap.

this is possibly why many people go through 1,2 and even 3 engines before 150k miles.

diabolical1

iTrader: (3)

mine got reflashed a few months before I started using 87 in it, so I guess this is one possibility.

well, I get in it every once in a while, but I honestly try not to beat on it too much. also, i do a lot of long distance runs in it, so I guess that may work in my favor as well.

honestly, i'm not surprised to hear about it, but yours is the first I can recall hearing about.

well, it certainly throws another possible factor on the pile. I have actually given it some thought (what I thought was just hypothetical) in the past and planned a few experiments, but my life has not been really accommodating to my side projects for the last few years. however, I guess it costs nothing for me to keep thinking and planning, eh?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i ran it for a while, even though i didn't plan on beating the snot out of the car this is vegas, and while you might not see it from the outside we have to deal with tons of fucktards from out of state cutting you off, trying to put you into a ditch because they have no clue where the hell they are going... this sets me off and at times i'm bouncing the car off the rev limiter. after a few tanks even only doing that once or twice per tank i could feel the stuttering, i could feel the engine struggle to start, and the idle would randomly just stall.

of course i know what all those symptoms point to, and they all came about quite quickly with the lower octane.