Pulling engine out
03-23-13, 11:55 PM
#2
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depends..
First things first..Which CAR are we talking about here.
State your car when asking questions.
I've taken out Sec gen engines in about 2 hours with a Engine hoist.trans and all.alone...(I'm getting old..)
First things first..Which CAR are we talking about here.
State your car when asking questions.
I've taken out Sec gen engines in about 2 hours with a Engine hoist.trans and all.alone...(I'm getting old..)
03-24-13, 01:03 AM
#3
yes, state your year.
for me, working alone, I can do a Gen I in a little less than an hour most times. I can do a Gen II in about twice that time. i'm sure it took me much longer than that the first time I did either.
if you have a FSM, a basic metric set of sockets and wrenches, then take your time and do it. it may be beneficial to also get some masking tape and a Sharpie (and/or a decent camera). if you don't have an engine lift, then you will need another person.
for me, working alone, I can do a Gen I in a little less than an hour most times. I can do a Gen II in about twice that time. i'm sure it took me much longer than that the first time I did either.
if you have a FSM, a basic metric set of sockets and wrenches, then take your time and do it. it may be beneficial to also get some masking tape and a Sharpie (and/or a decent camera). if you don't have an engine lift, then you will need another person.
03-24-13, 02:05 AM
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From my point of view as an inept non-mechanic, pulling it out isn't all that difficult but putting it back in is a real pain. It works a lot better with two people, one to operate the hoist and one to help position the engine. Even better, add a third person for guiding the engine or spotting. If you can borrow a trailer then you could take the car to a professional shop and have them do the difficult part.
In my experience, the masking tape and sharpie is much better than a camera, but using both is probably your best bet.
In my experience, the masking tape and sharpie is much better than a camera, but using both is probably your best bet.
03-24-13, 10:25 AM
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Thanks for all the replies My car is a 1988 convertible (non turbo) thos is going to be my first ever build and I was going to pull out the old engine but when I purchased it the guy I boughr it from removed all the top accessory so now the block is just in there My dad*has*a engine hoist wretches and stands I was justwondering how dificult it was
03-24-13, 10:58 AM
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If your dad has removed any EFI engine, then he has a good idea about what is involved. There is nothing special about the rotary engine or RX-7 in this respect. Just be careful with the brittle old electrical connectors, especially the fuel injector clips.
This video should give you a good idea about what is involved. You may want to also order the overhaul video if you plan on rebuilding the engine yourself.
New Page 1
More engine rebuilding videos here:
Videos
Mazda Rotary Instructional Rebuild DVD (ARE56)
Look, free clips!
Show All Rotary Engine Rebuild Videos
This video should give you a good idea about what is involved. You may want to also order the overhaul video if you plan on rebuilding the engine yourself.
New Page 1
More engine rebuilding videos here:
Videos
Mazda Rotary Instructional Rebuild DVD (ARE56)
Look, free clips!
Show All Rotary Engine Rebuild Videos
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03-24-13, 01:35 PM
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The pile o hardware is the fun part. Then the local hardware store learns you by namr and offers you a rewards catd. Thr hardest part for me is lining the engine up to the tranny or not replacing every part i come by.
03-24-13, 02:07 PM
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Thanks for all the advice and links I want to rebuild the engine but Im scared that I might just send $1,000 down the drain because I screwed up with the seals. I watched Aaron Cakes videos on rebuilding it and it seems simple but I really feel like I will screw it up
Last edited by misterstyx69; 03-24-13 at 02:18 PM.
03-24-13, 07:47 PM
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Thanks for all the advice and links I want to rebuild the engine but Im scared that I might just send $1,000 down the drain because I screwed up with the seals. I watched Aaron Cakes videos on rebuilding it and it seems simple but I really feel like I will screw it up
03-24-13, 10:05 PM
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03-25-13, 11:27 AM
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Honestly get a used running engine in it and get some seat time in the car. They are fun sports cars but not for everybody. Then take your old one and rebuild it, port, mod and whatever else you want. This way you wolnt be in a hurry to get it done and can learn properly and ask questions so as not to make mistakes.
03-25-13, 11:59 AM
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Honestly get a used running engine in it and get some seat time in the car. They are fun sports cars but not for everybody. Then take your old one and rebuild it, port, mod and whatever else you want. This way you wolnt be in a hurry to get it done and can learn properly and ask questions so as not to make mistakes.
03-25-13, 12:35 PM
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The Turbo II is not significantly less reliable or harder to maintain as long as you don't screw with it. The oil change interval is 30% shorter, the EPA estimated highway gas mileage is 1 mpg less, and a complete engine overhaul is about $500 more to rebuild the turbo, but these are not a big deal for most people. The Turbo II runs on regular unleaded and the insurance is almost always the same as a non-turbo RX-7 coupe. The problem comes in when people start screwing with the car in an attempt to make more power.
The FD RX-7 is the maintenance nightmare car, not the Turbo II.
03-25-13, 01:06 PM
#17
Evil Aviator lays it out better ....
If you want a Turbo II car then just buy one. It is not worth the time and money to rework your car several times over, only to eventually end up with a ghetto version of something that you can buy right now for about $3K.
The Turbo II is not significantly less reliable or harder to maintain as long as you don't screw with it. The oil change interval is 30% shorter, the EPA estimated highway gas mileage is 1 mpg less, and a complete engine overhaul is about $500 more to rebuild the turbo, but these are not a big deal for most people. The Turbo II runs on regular unleaded and the insurance is almost always the same as a non-turbo RX-7 coupe. The problem comes in when people start screwing with the car in an attempt to make more power.
The Turbo II is not significantly less reliable or harder to maintain as long as you don't screw with it. The oil change interval is 30% shorter, the EPA estimated highway gas mileage is 1 mpg less, and a complete engine overhaul is about $500 more to rebuild the turbo, but these are not a big deal for most people. The Turbo II runs on regular unleaded and the insurance is almost always the same as a non-turbo RX-7 coupe. The problem comes in when people start screwing with the car in an attempt to make more power.
03-26-13, 12:43 PM
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If you want a Turbo II car then just buy one. It is not worth the time and money to rework your car several times over, only to eventually end up with a ghetto version of something that you can buy right now for about $3K.
The Turbo II is not significantly less reliable or harder to maintain as long as you don't screw with it. The oil change interval is 30% shorter, the EPA estimated highway gas mileage is 1 mpg less, and a complete engine overhaul is about $500 more to rebuild the turbo, but these are not a big deal for most people. The Turbo II runs on regular unleaded and the insurance is almost always the same as a non-turbo RX-7 coupe. The problem comes in when people start screwing with the car in an attempt to make more power.
The FD RX-7 is the maintenance nightmare car, not the Turbo II.
The Turbo II is not significantly less reliable or harder to maintain as long as you don't screw with it. The oil change interval is 30% shorter, the EPA estimated highway gas mileage is 1 mpg less, and a complete engine overhaul is about $500 more to rebuild the turbo, but these are not a big deal for most people. The Turbo II runs on regular unleaded and the insurance is almost always the same as a non-turbo RX-7 coupe. The problem comes in when people start screwing with the car in an attempt to make more power.
The FD RX-7 is the maintenance nightmare car, not the Turbo II.
03-26-13, 01:29 PM
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I was trying to find a turbo II but there are none in my area I found one but it was totalled and the engine was ripped out so I oped for the convertible that was driven buy one guy for its whole life time and was used strictly on the highway I wish I could find a turbo II its just that If I do find one its either gutted, overpriced Im talking about around 5 or 6K, totaled or ran down by some ricer
03-26-13, 01:35 PM
#20
X1000
patience is the key and even the possibility of needing a truck and trailer and driving 10 hours to pick something up.
i have hated every turbo converted car i was contracted to build, i'm honestly sick of bothering with it and going to reconsider just telling people "no". i'm currently working on a 6 port turbo conversion and i want to take a sledge hammer to it, i feel like i'm working at half my normal working rate. maybe someone throwing something together in their garage might enjoy it a bit more than i ever seem to have.
patience is the key and even the possibility of needing a truck and trailer and driving 10 hours to pick something up.
i have hated every turbo converted car i was contracted to build, i'm honestly sick of bothering with it and going to reconsider just telling people "no". i'm currently working on a 6 port turbo conversion and i want to take a sledge hammer to it, i feel like i'm working at half my normal working rate. maybe someone throwing something together in their garage might enjoy it a bit more than i ever seem to have.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 03-26-13 at 01:38 PM.
03-26-13, 11:20 PM
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X1000
patience is the key and even the possibility of needing a truck and trailer and driving 10 hours to pick something up.
i have hated every turbo converted car i was contracted to build, i'm honestly sick of bothering with it and going to reconsider just telling people "no". i'm currently working on a 6 port turbo conversion and i want to take a sledge hammer to it, i feel like i'm working at half my normal working rate. maybe someone throwing something together in their garage might enjoy it a bit more than i ever seem to have.
patience is the key and even the possibility of needing a truck and trailer and driving 10 hours to pick something up.
i have hated every turbo converted car i was contracted to build, i'm honestly sick of bothering with it and going to reconsider just telling people "no". i'm currently working on a 6 port turbo conversion and i want to take a sledge hammer to it, i feel like i'm working at half my normal working rate. maybe someone throwing something together in their garage might enjoy it a bit more than i ever seem to have.
03-27-13, 12:47 AM
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I started off with an N/A..Then I got looking at "more power",so I thought I could do a Swap,etc.
Well,seeing as it snows here in Winter I had the time to accumulate parts over 2 years and then In the Spring..Went for it.
I have been slapping parts on it since!..BIG *** turbo,New Fuel system,aftermarket ECU..the list goes on.
Make a Bold decision and tell yourself to just go "so far"..If not,you are Hooked like a Crack Addict on this forum and will be broke and eating Kraft dinner!..(pass the salt..!)
Well,seeing as it snows here in Winter I had the time to accumulate parts over 2 years and then In the Spring..Went for it.
I have been slapping parts on it since!..BIG *** turbo,New Fuel system,aftermarket ECU..the list goes on.
Make a Bold decision and tell yourself to just go "so far"..If not,you are Hooked like a Crack Addict on this forum and will be broke and eating Kraft dinner!..(pass the salt..!)
