ported 13b is this side plate still useable?
11-23-15, 09:25 PM
#29
I like new parts.
If you get hooked up with Mazda Motorsports side housings are $375 new.
There is very little used 13B-REW parts for sale on ebay right now, I don't know why.
---
Welding story-
I have a friend that is a hobbyist welder so our time was free to me. On my 1st engine build I tapped front iron oil galley (for output relocation) and rear iron coolant outlet (plug) with old dull NPT bits and cracked the irons (learned to use straight thread and crush washers on cast iron).
We grooved, cleaned, pre-heated the side housings and slowly, lightly TIG welded with Nickel rod taking breaks for beer to let heat distribute between welds. We lightly peened the metal with a slag hammer while letting the irons cool right after each weld to relieve stresses.
Filed down weld the weld bead, scraped it flat with a plane and then checked housing straightness with a machinists straight edge and feeler gauges like service manual shows.
Luckily no warping!
I used these housings for 4 years of racing & daily driving till they needed to be lapped and then got new to me used housings. I did my turbo exhaust housing at the same time/method and it lasted 9 years with no cracking also.
The later '89+ rear side housings welded nicely like the '89 turbo housing, the earlier front side housing ('87)was really splattery. I think the later castings used more Nickel.
I would buy new housings, but welding *is* possible and a carefully done weld is durable.
If you get hooked up with Mazda Motorsports side housings are $375 new.
There is very little used 13B-REW parts for sale on ebay right now, I don't know why.
---
Welding story-
I have a friend that is a hobbyist welder so our time was free to me. On my 1st engine build I tapped front iron oil galley (for output relocation) and rear iron coolant outlet (plug) with old dull NPT bits and cracked the irons (learned to use straight thread and crush washers on cast iron).
We grooved, cleaned, pre-heated the side housings and slowly, lightly TIG welded with Nickel rod taking breaks for beer to let heat distribute between welds. We lightly peened the metal with a slag hammer while letting the irons cool right after each weld to relieve stresses.
Filed down weld the weld bead, scraped it flat with a plane and then checked housing straightness with a machinists straight edge and feeler gauges like service manual shows.
Luckily no warping!
I used these housings for 4 years of racing & daily driving till they needed to be lapped and then got new to me used housings. I did my turbo exhaust housing at the same time/method and it lasted 9 years with no cracking also.
The later '89+ rear side housings welded nicely like the '89 turbo housing, the earlier front side housing ('87)was really splattery. I think the later castings used more Nickel.
I would buy new housings, but welding *is* possible and a carefully done weld is durable.
11-23-15, 10:23 PM
#31
I have never had a side housing with measurable wear on the intake side... does this happen?
There is no combustion pressure behind the seals pushing them into the housing on that side, it is just spring tension.
Only time I have seen measurable wear on a side housing on the intake side is when it was streetported to let one (or both if you are silly) side seals drop into the port and then not scissored at the top of the port. Then you get a little line at the top of the port.
I am 100% sure Nickel fill would be fine on the intake port for wear.
There is no combustion pressure behind the seals pushing them into the housing on that side, it is just spring tension.
Only time I have seen measurable wear on a side housing on the intake side is when it was streetported to let one (or both if you are silly) side seals drop into the port and then not scissored at the top of the port. Then you get a little line at the top of the port.
I am 100% sure Nickel fill would be fine on the intake port for wear.
Last edited by BLUE TII; 11-23-15 at 10:27 PM.
11-27-15, 06:48 AM
#32
Exhaust Manifold Leak
on another side, is it wise to use solid corner seals when using ceramic seals? I need to build a 13B PP for a guy with 3mm 1 piece Ianetti seals in rx8 rotors, rotors are EDM'd for 3mm with correct dept obviously. Option is either these solid weird looking corner seals or 12A ones.
11-27-15, 08:20 AM
#34
RotaryEvolution has been working on rx7s for a long time. He is giving you his years or experience. Used irons are cheap, that is what we recommend you doing. It is your motor and money so if you don't want to listen to people who have years of experience and weld in material and waste your time and money then go ahead
11-27-15, 05:18 PM
#35
Rub20B
on another side, is it wise to use solid corner seals when using ceramic seals? I need to build a 13B PP for a guy with 3mm 1 piece Ianetti seals in rx8 rotors, rotors are EDM'd for 3mm with correct dept obviously. Option is either these solid weird looking corner seals or 12A ones.
RotaryEvolution i always try to stick with OEM corner seals, i see noticeable wear when using some of the aftermarket solid seals.
I would ask the (expensive) apex seal manufacturer what corner seal they recommend.
Baring this, I would definitely use OEM corner seals.
But for 3mm motors you have the choice of 1011-11-321 OEM solid corner seals or N225-11-321 OEM hollow ones (with or without the plug depending on your side port opening line).
I used to use solid 3mm OEM, but I found they are weaker than the hollow ones because the corners of the apex seal slot is a stress riser and they always crack and break there.
The hollow 3mm OEM seals have the large rounded radius for the rubber plug and when the apex seal squirms in the slot the whole corner seal flexes a little bit instead of cracking.
Sometimes the hollow corner seals bind in the rotor bore from the apex seal seal squirm and resulting corner seal expansion, but it is much more rare. It is usually when you break the apex seal very short in the corner seal area and keep running the engine and then eventually it takes the corner seal out too.
I don't use the rubber plug.
If you do use aftermarket corner seals.
Measure their slot in the rotor with the apex seal in there (drag the feeler gauge all the way through the rotor slot and corner seal slot). Judge Ito who uses aftermarket corner seals recommends doing this as he says the slot is fairly often machined slightly off center and requires additional clearancing.
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