Opinions on higher HP RX7 S5
#1
Ceasar
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Opinions on higher HP RX7 S5
I'm looking at two RX7's, one on this site and one on eBay...my question is basically based on opinion so feel free to have at this anyway you see fit, I want HONEST opinions only though, please don't BS me
That being said, how many RX7's out there are around the 450-550whp range? Are they reliable? I am checking out this guys rb25det on here that I am really thinking about and the other one has the following mods:
"MOD
-GT40 garrett single turbo
-2x mocal oil coolers with stainless stell lines
-ABS delete kit (bought from Rttary Shack)
-2x Sparco fighter Racing seat
-Sparco steering wheel
-NRG quick release and lock hub
-POWER FC commander and controller
-Seibon carbon fiber hood
-carbon fiber front and rear bumber and skirts.
-racing beat wing
-battery relocator kit (battery is currently relocate to the back of driver seat.
- triple gauge pod in the center of top dash. (oil/water/ air)
-double guage on the driver side (boost/air fuel)
part i have but not currently install. (which will be include in the sale when purschase)
-CJ MOTORSPORT STAGE 1 fuel system with there twin fuel pump bracket with 2 use walbro fuel pump. and 4 1600 injector which are use but are in good condition.
-Also have a hks turbo timer which I plan to include also."
That's what he has listed on his page and he hasn't put more than 300 miles on the new motor build. Would I be better off just turning up the boost on the bulletproof RB25det or would I be fine with this other boosted RX7?
Thanks in advance guys, I would like any info you can give as I am reading a lot on this site and trying to make the best decision with the information I have been given.
Cody
That being said, how many RX7's out there are around the 450-550whp range? Are they reliable? I am checking out this guys rb25det on here that I am really thinking about and the other one has the following mods:
"MOD
-GT40 garrett single turbo
-2x mocal oil coolers with stainless stell lines
-ABS delete kit (bought from Rttary Shack)
-2x Sparco fighter Racing seat
-Sparco steering wheel
-NRG quick release and lock hub
-POWER FC commander and controller
-Seibon carbon fiber hood
-carbon fiber front and rear bumber and skirts.
-racing beat wing
-battery relocator kit (battery is currently relocate to the back of driver seat.
- triple gauge pod in the center of top dash. (oil/water/ air)
-double guage on the driver side (boost/air fuel)
part i have but not currently install. (which will be include in the sale when purschase)
-CJ MOTORSPORT STAGE 1 fuel system with there twin fuel pump bracket with 2 use walbro fuel pump. and 4 1600 injector which are use but are in good condition.
-Also have a hks turbo timer which I plan to include also."
That's what he has listed on his page and he hasn't put more than 300 miles on the new motor build. Would I be better off just turning up the boost on the bulletproof RB25det or would I be fine with this other boosted RX7?
Thanks in advance guys, I would like any info you can give as I am reading a lot on this site and trying to make the best decision with the information I have been given.
Cody
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Ceasar
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MOD
-GT40 garrett single turbo
-2x mocal oil coolers with stainless steel lines
-ABS delete kit (bought from Rotary Shack)
-2x Sparco fighter Racing seat
-Sparco steering wheel
-NRG quick release and lock hub
-POWER FC commander and controller
-Seibon carbon fiber hood
-carbon fiber front and rear bumber and skirts.
-racing beat wing
-battery relocator kit (battery is currently relocate to the back of driver seat.
- triple gauge pod in the center of top dash. (oil/water/ air)
-double guage on the driver side (boost/air fuel)
-GT40 garrett single turbo
-2x mocal oil coolers with stainless steel lines
-ABS delete kit (bought from Rotary Shack)
-2x Sparco fighter Racing seat
-Sparco steering wheel
-NRG quick release and lock hub
-POWER FC commander and controller
-Seibon carbon fiber hood
-carbon fiber front and rear bumber and skirts.
-racing beat wing
-battery relocator kit (battery is currently relocate to the back of driver seat.
- triple gauge pod in the center of top dash. (oil/water/ air)
-double guage on the driver side (boost/air fuel)
#3
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Honestly, I would avoid buying any car you have not checked out yourself, compression tested, driven (if possible), etc.
If you have to buy a car sight unseen I would remember the old proverb:
"In a car you can have fast, reliable, or cheap... pick two"
By this rationale I would consider neither of your options to be very reliable, even if you have the impression that the RB25det is "bulletproof" if you ever do have to fix it you'll be looking at obtaining parts for a JDM engine. Good luck with that.
Of course I favor the rotary
If you have to buy a car sight unseen I would remember the old proverb:
"In a car you can have fast, reliable, or cheap... pick two"
By this rationale I would consider neither of your options to be very reliable, even if you have the impression that the RB25det is "bulletproof" if you ever do have to fix it you'll be looking at obtaining parts for a JDM engine. Good luck with that.
Of course I favor the rotary
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#10
Engine, Not Motor
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On the other hand, buying someone else's project is a very good way to get parts at a fraction of their retail price.
The only thing is, you need to be very sure that the work was quality. Since the OP has just posted a list of mods, which should equal a 450-500 HP car, we can only guess. Stuff listed like "heads" makes it a bit...odd...
The only thing is, you need to be very sure that the work was quality. Since the OP has just posted a list of mods, which should equal a 450-500 HP car, we can only guess. Stuff listed like "heads" makes it a bit...odd...
#11
Ceasar
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Lol yes i would say it is not "normal" because I can't even take the car to a dealer that used to sell those exact cars...that isn't normal to me haha I guess "different" would be a better choice of words for the sensitive types out there
#12
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I did that with my G35, and I will never do that again due to how much money was completely wasted into that car. I already picked up that RX-7 that I was initially talking about and am working out some minor issues while I'm breaking in the motor. That way I can get it tuned and turned into a monster as soon as possible
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On the other hand, buying someone else's project is a very good way to get parts at a fraction of their retail price.
The only thing is, you need to be very sure that the work was quality. Since the OP has just posted a list of mods, which should equal a 450-500 HP car, we can only guess. Stuff listed like "heads" makes it a bit...odd...
The only thing is, you need to be very sure that the work was quality. Since the OP has just posted a list of mods, which should equal a 450-500 HP car, we can only guess. Stuff listed like "heads" makes it a bit...odd...
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Just found a steal on an FC. I just bought a FC myself but PLEASE someone buy this car. Here is the link to the listing http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac...689303437.html.
#19
Ceasar
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Ha you guys must have assumed I got the RB, I have the rotary in my car. Its a freshly built rotary with the street port and a gt-40 Turbo. I just got 850cc primaries and 1600cc secondaries to go with my CJ Motorsports stage 1 fuel system with the twin walbro fuel pumps. The guy before me did a lot of shady fixes to the car but he got a lot of good parts like upgraded radiator, upgraded FMIC, hks twin ignition, sparco fighter seats, sparco wheel, etc. I wanted the rotary in the car so i could have a true RX7...anything else would be 'cheating' in my book although I appreciate different motors in the car. I will post pics of the car as soon as I can :-)
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from my personal experience (yes I only have 5 posts, but ive worked on 30 or so 13b engines, that unless the person you are buying the engine from is knowledgeable at port work, Id want to see pics of the intermediate and end plates to see how well he did at them. I have done quite a few rebuilds and ive seen a bridge port that resembled something that someone with parkinsons performed and a mild port that literally was just dremeled with an 80grit stone. Also note that these cars are fun, but can be tedious to work on if you don't know exactly what to look for when the problems arise.
What port work was done... a mild or a large street port? If he cut corners elsewhere, you might want to crack the engine open. Did he give you compression numbers.......what apex seals did he put in? 2mm 3mm. a gt40 is a good sized turbo.
These little spinning triangles on a stick are amazing but without internal supporting mods and a great tune, they can be time bombs. On a side note, they are fun as hell and you cant beat the sound of a bridge port turbo 13 shifting at 9000!
-ricky
What port work was done... a mild or a large street port? If he cut corners elsewhere, you might want to crack the engine open. Did he give you compression numbers.......what apex seals did he put in? 2mm 3mm. a gt40 is a good sized turbo.
These little spinning triangles on a stick are amazing but without internal supporting mods and a great tune, they can be time bombs. On a side note, they are fun as hell and you cant beat the sound of a bridge port turbo 13 shifting at 9000!
-ricky
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Btw I have a '93 FD RX-7 S6, not S5 haha rookie mistake!
from my personal experience (yes I only have 5 posts, but ive worked on 30 or so 13b engines, that unless the person you are buying the engine from is knowledgeable at port work, Id want to see pics of the intermediate and end plates to see how well he did at them. I have done quite a few rebuilds and ive seen a bridge port that resembled something that someone with parkinsons performed and a mild port that literally was just dremeled with an 80grit stone. Also note that these cars are fun, but can be tedious to work on if you don't know exactly what to look for when the problems arise.
What port work was done... a mild or a large street port? If he cut corners elsewhere, you might want to crack the engine open. Did he give you compression numbers.......what apex seals did he put in? 2mm 3mm. a gt40 is a good sized turbo.
-ricky
What port work was done... a mild or a large street port? If he cut corners elsewhere, you might want to crack the engine open. Did he give you compression numbers.......what apex seals did he put in? 2mm 3mm. a gt40 is a good sized turbo.
-ricky
My car is an S6 btw, I made a true rookie mistake lol! I will upload pics of the build and everything else...
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