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Ok, on to problem no. 2

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Old 01-17-11, 04:10 AM
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Ok, on to problem no. 2

I'm really happy with this forum so far. Everyone seems to be nice and really helpful.

I am getting a bad vibration when driving and on the throttle. When I let off the throttle it seems to go away. But its bad! the gear shift is jumping around my cell phone jumped out of the ash tray and landed in my lap. I would appreciate any ideas you might have that would cause a vibration like that. This is way worse then a motor mount. maybe a harmonic balancer?
Old 01-17-11, 04:51 AM
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gearbox mount? uni joint?
Old 01-17-11, 07:46 AM
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I'd question mounts as well, engine or transmission.
Old 01-17-11, 09:21 AM
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Maybe even front diff mount.
Old 01-17-11, 09:32 AM
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I would lean towards carrier and trans mounts man..but have you lookes at your motor mounts? And are they stock because solis mounts vibrate pretty good.
Old 01-17-11, 09:54 AM
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thanks guys. Im going to check out all the mounts today. Does anybody know where o can find a good deal ok these? I could really use a break with all this part buying. Lol
Old 01-19-11, 11:49 AM
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Mazdatrix sells a few kinds of 'stock' mounts, with the mazda competition mounts being cheapest (40 for a comp mount and 45 for an oem mount, need two to do the job proper).
transmission mounts are about 23~32 bucks for the Y blocks (comp mounts cheapest) and the crossmember for the transmission is about 100bucks give or take depending on year/model.
Rear differential mounts...Front dif mount (typically goes bad most often) runs between 104 dollars (competition mount) to 176 (oem), the dif mount bushings (that hold the dif to the body) are 52(comp bushing) and 93(oem) and you need a pair of those to replace them properly.

IF all your mounts are found to be in good condition (though the front differential mount is hardly ever good on an again FC) then you have something SERIOUSLY out of balance within the engine or you are running on one rotor (if power is severely lacking).

However, if the engine is ok, then the next thing to look at is the driveshaft. Chances are also good the U-joints are toast, and since mazda did not design the stock driveshaft to have replacable joints, you can either buy a new oem driveshaft (at least 400 bucks) or you can get an aftermarket one (for about 300ish). If you are in a bind a used driveshaft that is for your model can work (and are generally cheap to buy if local).

All prices ive quoted were taken directly from mazdatrix's website.
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