Use valvoline vr1 racing 20-50 conventional for hard driving and warm to hot temps. It has more zinc in it as they have taken it out of most oil due to harm to converters (hence the off road use only on the container). Zink helps with wear. Use 10-40 castrol or Mobil in winter, and change oil every 2k to 2500k. I use a oil pump to extract oil and change filter every two changes. Also use factory, bosh, k&n, just don't use fram or cheap brands.

 

The oil you use is your own personal preference, and synthetics are not economical, but I know plenty of guys who have been building rotaries for 20+ years, and race them, more often than most people drive them, and they all use synthetic oil. Their engines last longer than most I have seen too. I am going to stick to Amsoil, but that has nothing to do with brand, it is for the same reason anyone who cares about what they drive chooses a product; it works well for them.

By the way, its the 21st century, and the rx8 wasn't produced in the 20th century either. Not to complain, just found it ironic.

 

Get back on topic and stop all of the trash talking!! It's in your best interest to accommodate my request!!

 

Keep it on topic. I have cleaned up the off topic posts. Play nice and keep it on topic. You have been warned.

 

thanks sarge... will do..

 

i use any synthetic 10-40

 

Straight from the FSM.

Starting temps below 30 degrees F (-1 C), use 5w30
Starting and Operating temps between 0 F and 80 F (-18 C and 27 C), use 10w30, not 10w40.
Starting and Operating temps above 30 F (-1 C), use 20w50

Synthetic list of oils that I prefer:
Idemitsu
Royal Purple
Redline
Mobil 1
Amsoil

Conventional Oils that I prefer:
Castrol GTX
Shell

Oil Filters that I prefer:
Mazda
Nippon
K&N
Mobil 1
Wix (this last one has a decent reputation, I've never personally used it, but I have seen reputable sources on the forum swear by it.)

Reasons not to use 10w40:

<url>http://fc3spro.com/TECH/MODS/ENGINE/OIL/oilfaq.html</url>

If the link doesn't work, copy and paste it into your browser's address bar.

 

Idemitsu in my personal opinion is the better choice

 

What's wrong with going the safe way about things. unless you have a race purpose engine which you don't mind rebuilding. causes carbon build up that causes your seal to stick.

From mazda
Dear John,

Thank you for contacting Mazda North American Operations. I appreciate
the opportunity to respond to you.

In regard to your inquiry, Mazda recommends using 5W-20 engine oil for
the Mazda RX-8. Please understand, Mazda hasn't done any long-term
testing using synthetic oil with the RENESIS rotary engine. As such,
we don't recommend the use of synthetic oil.

Regards,

Lisa Lasky
Specialist, Customer Assistance E-Business

 

As a comment, my post is strictly talking about 2nd generation RX-7's.

The information I posted is from the MAZDA FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL for FC's.

It's up to you, there's no real benefit of synthetic anyway in a rotary engine, besides possibly less friction.

Wear and tear is the same after a full race season, what does that tell you?

I also wouldn't blindly follow a manufacturer's advice, without doing some research behind it. Sure Mazda tells everyone not to use synthetic, but have you ever heard anyone blowing an engine because he used Royal Purple? I haven't.

 

this is a good point you got. all i'm trying to say is that for those who wanna be safe about it should stick with what is reliable.
thanx for agreeing with a good pin of view.

 

I agree with alot of people, synthetic has came a long way since FD's were first released.

 

I found this interesting since before I sold my 87 NA car read from some credible sites never to use synthetics after I had just run 5W50 castrol for a few oil changes. Then I switched to 10W30 dino juice one day. I went on a trip and the car did just fine, but when I went leave it had a hard time restarting hot as it would do on occasion so I switched the fuel pump off and it fired right off to clear out and then off I went as usual. Never did fix that issue because the next day ironically after I went to church for the first time in years it just started smoking horribly, but after you would drive it for a while it would go away. Now could it just be a coincidence or was switching from synthetic to a different oil bad?
I plan on building an NA in the future so its good to know they are easy on oil..

 

Thanks Lisa, you have me convinced

 

Hey man in the red(icemark)so are you saying that mobile 1 is the best?cuz ive always used it in my old mr2without even knowing.

 

Here is an in tune article that gives a handy reference chart. The primary thing I got from Mark's (RIP) comments are lower ash content is better.

It doesn't copy and paste worth a damn, so here is a link:

http://mcgeerf.tripod.com/americansy...coil/id17.html

 

20w50 because it is so warm. Any brand that is API certified is good, including the brands you named. I don't know if you have API certified symbols on oil bottles in Hong Kong, but most major brands meet the API standard. You don't need a synthetic oil. Synthetic oils are better, but they are more expensive.

General answer for others: Read this thread or the FAQs. It's all been covered.

 

i read that royal purple burns good, one of the reasons why they said synthetic wasnt recommended. =\

 

hi, i have a 95 rz .. i have a single turbo conversion.
i was wondering what the best oil was for the engine. i live in the uk and at the moment i am usings Shell brand 5w40. the car is running smoothly however im not sure if this is the correct oil to use.

 

What's the range of temperature that your car sees?

What brand of synthetics are available to you?

I'm assuming the engine has been running for awhile.

 

thanks 4 your reply.. as im in the uk any type of oil is available 2 me. im just looking to get the most suitable one.
my car engine temperture varies between 65c and 80c depending on how much i put my foot down.
the oil i use is Shell 5w40.fully synthetic. it is used by ferrari but i know that altough fully synthetic oils are good for the turbo i have heard very mixed comments on which oil is actually the right one for n fd 3rd generation single turbo.

 

Not car temp, I meant ambient temp

My guess is you should be good running Mobil 1 20w50. You can also go with Amsoil, Royal Purple, Idemitsu, Redline.

Haven't heard much about Shell synthetic though.

 

I prefer using Idemitsu Racing oil.

 

been running my car for about a year now after the motor swap and havent put anything in it since i got it except for royal purple 20w-50 and 75w-90 for the diff and it hasn't given me any problems at all.

i really dont understand why people have a problem with it. it works wonders.

as for anyone who is saying their quality has gone down the crapper, i really think that they have something else going on: i.e. maybe a rep with another motor oil co or endorsements? i have never actually seen anyone who put royal purple in their car, have the problems that others claim to have. good luck with your research guys.

 

well after read n these posts im even more confused on this issue...ive done lots of research on this & find that there is no clear answer...i guess its just who ya talk n to & whats there prefrences...my opion is not 2 use synthetics...