craxyd

have a 1988 covertibl non turbo rx7 that i have had in storage for 10 yrs car has only 8500 actual miles in got it out of storage & had to replace my fuel pump when i changed it it wrked no no power i used a trp wire to trip the yellow connecter & fuel pump did kick on figured that it must b the relay under the dash just wondern if that sounded right be for i spent a 100$ on the relay any info will be appreciatedr

satch

iTrader: (1)

Pump does not turn on w/just key to on if the engine is not running.

RXSpeed16

iTrader: (41)

By jumpering the fuel check connector (the yellow plug) you have bypassed the fuel pump control switch (not an actual switch, but a circuit) in the air flow meter. It could still be good, but you can test that too. Turn the key to 'on' and press the flapper door of the AFM open. The pump will turn on as long as it isn't all the way closed.

craxyd

thnx il try that & see if that wrks

craxyd

& also the fuel pump still wont turn on when i try 2 start the car not just when the ignition is set to on i read that on here that you had to crank the car before the fuel pump cut on is why i jumped the yellow plug just to see if the fuel pump would turn on but il try pressing the flapper door

satch

iTrader: (1)

The 15 amp Engine fuse powers the fuel system so make sure it is good. If the fuse were good then the Main Relay would click w/key to on or the Black/White wire in the top row center position of the Circuit Opening Relay would have power w/key to on (relay powers the fuel pump and located under the dash and just to the right of the steering column and is Yellow and Black w/five wires).

Drifted88

iTrader: (3)

If you have a multimeter check for power at the fuel pump. If yes then check the ground side. If no work backwards in the circuit until you find power. One thing to try

craxyd

ok guys what iv dun now is i took the airfilter box off to access the afm & iv read on here that the pump will not pump til the cars being cranked but regardless i took a screwdriver & opened the flap on the arm & the fuel pump kikd on so does this mean the afm is bad? & if so is ther away i can fix it or do i have to replace it/

craxyd

last post i put i opened the flap on the arm lol which i meant the afm

satch

iTrader: (1)

W/key to start the B/W wire in the top row far left position of the Circuit Opening Relay should have voltage. Does it? If it does then the Blue wire in the same plug will also have voltage. The Blue wire powers the fuel pump.

craxyd

ok its been killn me since i put that fuel pump on & it ran for like 10 mins then quit ,jumped the yellow wire & it kikd on opened the flap on the afm & it kikd on so i did what y suggested & chekd the ohms on the plug that connects to the relay under the dash & it is recieing power so does that narrow it down to the relay under the dash thats bad/ & thnx for all the nfo on here u peopl hav been a lifesavior for me

satch

iTrader: (1)

You're supposed to check for voltage and not ohms. If you checked for voltage at the top left wire (Black/White) and had voltage w/key to start, but the Blue wire had no voltage at the same time then either the relay is bad or the wire in the bottom far left position is not wired properly as it should be a ground ( this wire is solid Black). This ground wire can be used for the multimeter when measuring for voltage on the wires in this relay plug (such as the B/W wire and the Blue wire).

craxyd

ok i just checkd for voltage and had good voltage to the b/w wire & had good voltage to the blue wire so now im thinkn i shld test the relay? or does that suggest the relay is bad since wer i bypassed the afm & it kicked on & if i assume correctly my othr relays are ok i also checked the main fuse & the room fuse all are ok but that goes back to were i tripped the yellow connecter & it did kick on so again i just assume that evrythng else is ok or the pump would not had kiked on

satch

iTrader: (1)

The Blue wire powers the fuel pump so if the Blue wire has voltage then the pump should run. So if the Blue wire has voltage w/key to start then that aspect of the relay is good. W/key to on and either the fuel check connector jumpered or the AFM door open then the Blue wire once again should have voltage. If it does then that aspect of the relay is good as well.

craxyd

ok thnx its late here il check that 1st thng n the morning & i am very gratefull for your info i usually work on hondas so im mazda illeterate post agin 2morow

craxyd

ok i tried the yellow plug trip wire & had voltage on the blue wire then i went ahead and chekd opening the afm & checkd it again & both ways i had voltage so im doing my best to try to narrow this down so what would b the next thing i can check & i also noticed when i put the relay back on it did click wen i tyrned the ignition on if that matters & 1nce again i gratefully app all the information

satch

iTrader: (1)

It all boils down to the Blue wire. You've shown that w/key to start that the Blue wire has voltage so your pump should be receiving power. If it's not then perhaps the rear harness is not making a good connection, but you stated earlier that you got the pump to turn on w/the jumper in place or the AFM door open, so that can't be it. I suggest you try checking whether the pump is powering up or not w/key to start once again.

And the jumper wire should not be in place when opening the AFM door.

craxyd

i did try that after i checked thr blue wire w/key to start without the jumper or the flap on the afm open thats whats got me stumpd i still hav no power @ the fuel pump after i tried all that u hav mentioned im kinda wondern if the relay might have a short or went bad aftr i changed the fuel pump becaus wen i changed the fuel pump evrythng wrked fine but the only thng that keeps me from thinkn its a bad relay is that it clicks wen i turn on the ignition would it still click wem the igniton key turned on/ if it might slowly b going out/ i had a honda that had the same problm 1 day it would start fine then the next day it might take hrs be for it would start then it would & so on til i changed that relay like i said i dont no to much about theses rx7s & afyter i did change the relay on the honda i never had a problm out of it since i changed it i jus hate 2 spend a 100$ on a relay that wont fix my prob

craxyd

were i used the yellow trip wire that bypassed the afm does that mean that the relay that close 2 the passenger headlight ok? & the main relay also caus if im right if they was not any good i wldnt had any power going to the pump if i tripped the yellow plug? is that correct/

satch

iTrader: (1)

I don't think you're understanding. The Blue wire powers the fuel pump. The relay powers the Blue wire. Blue wire has voltage means the relay works.

And to clarify. Checking the Blue wire for voltage w/key to start is not done w/the check connector jumpered or the need to open the AFM door. The only reason why you jumpered the check connector or propped open the AFM door w/key to on was to test a different aspect of the relay. You tested the relay w/key to start, and tested it w/key to on while the door was open or the jumper was in place, and under each condition the Blue wire had voltage so the relay is not then your problem. Again, check the Blue wire back by the pump location and verify that the pump is receiving the very same signals that the relay is seeing.

satch

iTrader: (1)

I have not a clue what this means.

craxyd

ok i just went and chekd the blue wire going to the fuel pump and i had voltage well i went to dubl chek under the dashboard on the b/w wire and the blue wire with key on and had no voltage went back to the fuelpump to check the blue wire again with key on & no voltage! imstumpd wld thes mean a relay? these cars drive me crazy & i want to thank you again for your info on this

S4 Vert

Along with the great advice and instructions I have gotten form fellow members, I used this link as a go to reference to help me understand how the wirring and modules work and are laid out.

http://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/2nd_g...ng_diagram.pdf

craxyd

I do appreciate your help Satch & I'll also check that link S4vert.Thanks.

satch

iTrader: (1)

W/key to on the jumper has to be in place or the AFM door opened for the Blue wire to have power. W/o doing either of these two things the Blue wire would not have voltage w/key to on. Is this how you did it?

Again, the Blue wire should have power w/key to start. It should also have power w/key to on "IF" the fuel check connector is jumpered or the AFM door is opened. If neither the jumper is in place or the door opened then the Blue wire cannot have voltage w/key to on.