anthonywe

hi I have a 1987 turbo ll. It was working fine when bought it 2 months ago. I changed the oil and oil filter like 2 weeks ago. and car was still driving good and oil pressure was like about 30 and when putting some gas it goes to maybe about 60 but 2 days ago the oil pressure will stay at 0 no mater what I do. some people told me it could be like the oil switch or something like that or maybe the oil pump but allot of people here different things so decided to ask here which I think people know better. The car drives but when it goes to about 4000 to 4500 rpm the car does not want to go to 5 or 6 rpm it acts weird so I'm forced to change it in the second gear. It did it in the first and second did not try more then that since they told me to not drive the car until it is fixed.

Does anyone might know what It could be that causes this? what should I look at first that could be causing the oil pressure to stay at 0? there is enough oil as I have just changed it and add new one and changed oil filter.

thank you for your time in advance and hope that someone can help me with this.

RotaryRocket88

iTrader: (7)

Your oil pressure sender or the gauge itself may have failed. The factory service manual (FSM), which is available for download in the FAQ, has tests for these devices. I know the test for the gauge is attaching resistors of different sizes to the wiring, and checking for needle movement.

The acceleration / hesitation problem doesn't sound related, but with little info it's hard to say.

anthonywe

Wel i just bought a new hole oil pressure guage that someone that knows how to work with these kinda of motor wil come to my house and connect it for me.. The car started acting weird like the aceleration after the oil presuure was staying at 0. Since you know more what do you think the problem can be if its not the oil guage/pressure making the car act like this?

Tbank you for your time

Chris_T

Well, I'm told this is a common problem, tho, for both FC's and FD's. Have the oil sensor checked just in case; it might have just been it's time to break down. But as long as the system is still building pressure, you're fine.

mrlhand

The oil pressure sender is on the drivers side of the engine. Rock Auto has one on clearance. These fail all the time. You remove it with a wrench and it has one wire. If you need a picture of the unit just ask.

Larry

Djonyx

iTrader: (5)

Can you give us more detail when you meant "acting weird". If you hear grinding noise or abnormal noise on the engine that tells you that the gauge doesn't get any pressure from the engine.

Possible cause

1. Oil pressure regulator has failed.
2. Oil pump took a dump.
3. Worn out eccentric shaft bearing.
4. Worn out rotor bearing.
5. Malfunction of oil bypass valve on the eccentric shaft.
6. Malfunction of oil cooler bypass valve.
7. Clogged oil filter
8. Clogged oil strainer.
9. Malfunction of oil pressure control.

My friend has been running on a bad oil pressure gauge and everything was fine even though he was beating the hell out of it while drifting.

anthonywe

I changed oil guage and those things and everythings works again how it is supposed to.. Thank you verry much for the help!!!!

anthonywe

well as I have mentioned I change the oil gauge like the whole setup and I had oil pressure again and car started doing normal again.
but now I still have oil pressure and the car started doing the same thing again. What exactly it is doing is when the rpm gets at around 4 it does not want to accelerate anymore it's hard to explain what exactly it does. for example if you have a car in first speed and you don't know how to drive manual and you do something wrong when you start driving from 0 KM and the car like struggle to go forward? well that is kinda what it is doing in the 4th rpm.
I used some fuel injector cleaner and It kinda works a bit better not sure yet as I have not drove it much yet but soon I will leave work and I will notice if there is anything wrong still. I'm going to have it checked after work to see what the problem can be as I don't know much about these kind of things. Do you have any advice of what can be the problem or what can remove this issue? maybe clean the fuel injector or something like that? A guy that works on the engine where I live at told me I have to rebuild the motor. But not sure if hes just trying to make money on me as it sound weird that , that is the only way of fixing this problem.

thank you in advance for your help.

Djonyx

iTrader: (5)

What is your oil pressure at 3000 RPM? If your oil pressure is below 60 then you have a big problem. Sounds like your engine is struggling at higher RPM range, this due to lack of lubrication on the bearing and other vital component. Therefore the only way to fix this problem is to rebuild your engine and probably need to replace the eccentric shaft. Now if you have the right oil pressure, first and foremost check your secondary injectors if they are working properly.

anthonywe

Ok i just tested it..when i start the car it stay at around 35 to 40 when i press gas till 3 or 4 rpm it goess to around59 (the oil pressure) if i turn on my light and big light the oil pressure drops to 20 and if i put the rpm to3 or4 it goess to 49?? So what should i do? Thank you

Djonyx

iTrader: (5)

That looks to be fine, it will consume more oil than before since your oil control ring are worn out. What about the issue on higher RPM? There is nothing you can do as of now, the only way to fix it is to rebuild the engine.

anthonywe

what do you mean what about the issue? It is stillthere while i have that amount of oil pressure. So I have to rebuild then engine your saying?

Djonyx

iTrader: (5)

I was referring to the 4000 rpm issues. Yes sir you will have to rebuilt the engine to fix all of your problem..

anthonywe

hmmm that sucks..oh well I guess I will either do that or burn the car.. I just bought it 2 months ago and did not even use it as a daily driving car. Guess I kinda bought it broken oh well. So small question. what exactly broke in the engine that made the oil pressure drop? and that requires a rebuild?

thanks..

Djonyx

iTrader: (5)

Worn out parts! What is the mileage on the engine?

anthonywe

The mileage at the moment is about 70K miles. but it is not working so if I drive it does not add up. and I don't know what this car has been trough before I bought it or how long they drove if before that mileage counting stopped working. what kind of price is a good price for a rebuild?

Djonyx

iTrader: (5)

If your gonna do it your self with genuine Mazda parts and machine lapped $1800.00 all of the seals and bearings will be replaced. If your gonna use aftermarket parts $1400.00. A good shop will probably charge you $2000.00 with aftermarket parts and with OEM $2500.00.

anthonywe

Well the person who can do it for me here said that he orders the package from puerto rico and will pay like $1000 for it. of course he is also charging me about $1000 to do it:s well I don't have a choice since I cannot do it myself. oh well this guy is not on the island he will return end of the month and I will talk to him. If you have a msn you can add me and I will show you some pictures of the car and maybe I can even show you a video of how the car is acting and yeah can also show you how it is after doing the rebuild so you can tell me what you think. (anthony_wever@hotmail.com)
thank you for your help!!

Kerberos_8

iTrader: (2)

Does the car run fine until it hits 4k rpm or does it run really bad and barely makes it to 4k rpm

TOOSHORT_88

iTrader: (15)

Check your compression on the engine... If your car runs fine until about 4k ish then thats preety much wen your in boost.... If you have aftermarket exhaust your problem is as simple as you need to port your wastegate or replace your plug wires...

anthonywe

it drives perfect before it reaches 4 rpm. and when it gets to 4 rpm it start doing what it does so I do also think it is when the boost comes in. But the why would the exhaust make a difference now and before it did drive good? like even in the boost part? well I guess I will have to have the wires and all that checked since I don't even know where to find the wires. sorry I know very little about this. but thanks for all the advice and your time

anthonywe

If you go to this link or copy and paste it in your browser you should be able to see pictures of the car

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3346396

anthonywe

some one just told me that the turbo might be fucked..? the person did not even look at the car but explained what it does.. can that also be it?

Djonyx

iTrader: (5)

You can check that turbine shaft by looking at the compressor side and try to turn that and feel if it's turning freely, also if there is too much backlash the bearings and seals are done. Now if those are fine can you tell how much boost is being build up? If you think that the boost was fine you should not have a problem at 4K RPM, like I said look into your secondary injectors. It might be running lean since the secondary should come on at that point.

anthonywe

ok what I think I will go do today is try to put the car on a computer to have everything checked. and yeah let them check everything you all referred to. and I guess I will give the result to you guys. thanks..