newbie question: motor mounts
03-08-12, 05:01 PM
#1
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newbie question: motor mounts
hi i was wondering how many motor mounts are there in a 13b. 2 right? what kind bolts do they used to mount because when i bought my car, the motor that was separated from the car when i bought it never came with motor mounts and i don't know what they look like or i try to Google up. pics would help alot too thanks!
. transmission is already in the car.
. transmission is already in the car.
03-08-12, 10:37 PM
#2
What car? More info needed. If 2nd gen...
You'll need to buy new mounts. And yes, there are 2. The mounts are rubber blocks formed around a metal block with studs on either side.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/mounts.htm
In the pictures, there are rubber caps covering the bottom studs. Pick up some nuts and washers, and you'll be able to attach everything.
You'll need to buy new mounts. And yes, there are 2. The mounts are rubber blocks formed around a metal block with studs on either side.
http://www.mazdatrix.com/mounts.htm
In the pictures, there are rubber caps covering the bottom studs. Pick up some nuts and washers, and you'll be able to attach everything.
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03-09-12, 07:59 AM
#8
Besides the metal part the rubber is molded to, there is a cup-like support that goes between the rubber and the frame crossmember. Will try to dig one up and get you a pic later today. I'll confirm the thread size, too. Meanwhile, find the online parts fiche (lots of threads for FSM & parts fiches). The engine mounts are in the chassis section. There is a recent thread on the motor mount 'dimples' that explains orientation when you install.
03-10-12, 12:32 AM
#12
Engine mounts
Here are excerpts from parts fiche drawing and part number. See arrows for the cast aluminum passenger side bracket, the rubber mount and the 'stopper casing'.
The studs on the mounts are M10 x 1.25. The nuts and lockwashers are standard for M10 x 1.25 but the OEM flat washers are oversized because the brackets have slots for the 'dimples' on the mounts. The washers are about 30 mm outside diameter x 10.5 inside diameter x 3.5 mm thick.
The studs on the mounts are M10 x 1.25. The nuts and lockwashers are standard for M10 x 1.25 but the OEM flat washers are oversized because the brackets have slots for the 'dimples' on the mounts. The washers are about 30 mm outside diameter x 10.5 inside diameter x 3.5 mm thick.
03-10-12, 04:18 AM
#13
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http://www.theautopartsshop.com/sear...engine%20mount
how do those motor mount works? i went to a nearby store which is the only store that has motor mount in stock around my area and they only have those kind
how do those motor mount works? i went to a nearby store which is the only store that has motor mount in stock around my area and they only have those kind
03-10-12, 09:28 AM
#14
Well, your link says they are stock photos, may not look like the actual parts. So they might actually be just like the OEM parts. But, my friend, you are only about a 20 minute drive from Mazdatrix. RX-7 / RX-8 parts and service are about all they do. http://www.mazdatrix.com/
They will have OEM mounts in stock. They may be able to help you out with the stopper casings, nuts and washers. Suggest you go there in person, explain your prob. Only downside...not open weekends.
They will have OEM mounts in stock. They may be able to help you out with the stopper casings, nuts and washers. Suggest you go there in person, explain your prob. Only downside...not open weekends.
03-11-12, 12:25 AM
#16
Yeah. Almost in your backyard. As close as you are, if you order online, you will probably get it next day. You're gonna want to get to know these guys.
Something else to check. First time I pulled an engine, I didn't know to remove the lower mount nuts. I tore apart both rubber mounts which left the stopper casings and the bottom nuts and bolts still attached to the frame cross-member. Maybe your seller had the same problem & they are still attached to the crossmember.
For the cast aluminum right side mount bracket (that bolts through the oil pan), look through everything you got with the car. If you don't find it, check with the guy that sold you the car. It's not the kind of part you would throw away. I can post a pic if you want.
BTW, so far no one has asked why the engine was out of the car in the first place. There may be some things you should consider doing that are way easier while the engine is out. First thoughts are to check:
Anyone else have good ideas of things to check while the engine is out?
Something else to check. First time I pulled an engine, I didn't know to remove the lower mount nuts. I tore apart both rubber mounts which left the stopper casings and the bottom nuts and bolts still attached to the frame cross-member. Maybe your seller had the same problem & they are still attached to the crossmember.
For the cast aluminum right side mount bracket (that bolts through the oil pan), look through everything you got with the car. If you don't find it, check with the guy that sold you the car. It's not the kind of part you would throw away. I can post a pic if you want.
BTW, so far no one has asked why the engine was out of the car in the first place. There may be some things you should consider doing that are way easier while the engine is out. First thoughts are to check:
- metering oil pump (just above oil pan at right front of engine) for leaks
- oil pan for leaks & consider a new pan gasket (since the right side engine mount bracket is off)
- tranny front cover and shaft seals
- clutch, flywheel and pressure plate.
Anyone else have good ideas of things to check while the engine is out?
03-11-12, 11:22 PM
#17
^ That's a good list of important things to check/replace while it's still easy. I'd add checking the operation of the aux. port actutators to be sure they move freely. If one doesn't move, it may be the actuator, or it could be the sleeve inside the LIM.
03-15-12, 09:47 PM
#20
The Mazdatrix site has detailed info pages on engine / transmission things to check when replacing the clutch. There is a front cover and seal for the input shaft inside the bell housing. There is also an output shaft seal. If there is visible oil leakage from the rear of the engine at the eccentric shaft, I think there is a shaft seal there, too.
Based on their info, when I replaced my clutch, I also did the tranny front cover, rear shaft seal, rubber mounts and cross member. That was with the engine in place and the transmission removed. Tranny mounts & rear seal would be more work in your situation. But, the front cover & seal would be easy for you.
Based on their info, when I replaced my clutch, I also did the tranny front cover, rear shaft seal, rubber mounts and cross member. That was with the engine in place and the transmission removed. Tranny mounts & rear seal would be more work in your situation. But, the front cover & seal would be easy for you.
