That probably is coolant seal failure due to overheating.

Your thermostat reads COOLANT temperature NOT engine temperature. If you have air in the system your coolant temps will read much lower then what then engine temperature actually is.

It is very important to burp the cooling system every time you do a flush or replace parts no matter what engine you do it too.

 

When you finally get to refill your system with coolant: do this:
- Make sure you have new OEM caps
- Make sure if you have a stock AST that it's in good solid shape (translucent dark green is very bad)
- Buy one of those yellow funnel kits that allow you to top off the coolant while the engine runs. Otherwise it's a slow and punishing sequence of squeezing hoses, venting air, buzzer turning on, and topping off coolant.
- Just use 50/50 coolant / water ratio with only distilled for your water. No spring or tap water. Exact ratio doesn't matter.

 

I am working on getting the engine out. took off all pressure plate bolts in t mission through inspection hole, not that hard of a job, had a buddy turn the motor in the front, so he would push opposite of me to help loosen the bolts =]p. Im gonna take it to a shop to get fixed for 800$ in labor, parts about 1700$ i say, with OEM APEX seals, then like atkins gasket set. Im gonna do a lot of the basic reliability mods , and just keep it safe. getting it tuned ASAP when car turns on again, someday lol

 

ast is already gone, i read more water is better, it helps cool more then coolant (ironic) coolant just raises boiling point, but Im gonna do alot to keep the car cool anways. 70/30 on that.


I am going to buy or find the coolant funnel thing, it was a pain squeezing the rad hose over and over, really works out the foreman if you do it fast

 

any tips on the rebuild?

things i should do that would help the car out, like block EGR valve, get efini y pipe, do silicone hose job. any other things i should delete or mod with its all apart?

 

What do you mean by "all apart"? I thought the car was all together and needing a coolant fill.

 

i said earlier in the thread i need to rebuild the engine, it overheated, coolant seals gone...

soo any tips on what i can do while i have access to everything would be great!

 

any tips on blocking off or redoing items in the engine bay?

like EGR valve block, im doing silicone hose job, anything else?

 

anything at all

 

Looking for tips!

 

tips?

 

dropped off the engine to get rebuilt and street ported, got a cooling mist kit, silicone hose kit, silicone radiator hoses, and downpipe.

ill be doing the fan switch mod when i get everything back in, im not joking about cooling now lol

any tips for anything else to be done while my car is apart?

 

Thoroughly clean and repaint the engine bay. Best time to do it is when the engine is out... (Makes sense, right?) - It would be best to paint it in a warm, ventilated garage.

 

I wish I could, I don't have access to a garage, and I'd have to tow it, which would cost more money. Thanks got the tip though

 

bump

 

Depending on your budget..........

*New Plug wires and coil harness
*Send the injectors in for cleaning and flow-testing.
*Make sure the rebuild includes NEW hi-pressure fuel hose
*Replace fuel pulsation damper or eliminate it (search for more info)
*Replace OMP lines with stainless and new copper crush washers (disregard if your deleting OMP)
*New pilot bearing
*New throw-out bearing
*New coolant hoses...especially turbo coolant lines
*New clutch fork (especially if pressure plate is upgraded)
*Replace any rubber vacuum lines with siicone. Search for a member DaleClark and get a set of viton check valves to replace OEM

Depending on your Coolingmist kit, you could also search under my name in the Auxillary Injection section for component location ideas

 

Thank you very much for that post, I'll be doing lots of searching today about that info

 

bump for anything else!

 

It's tedious, but cheap. You could also remove all the old crispy brittle engine harness insulation. Check continuity between the ECU connectors and the various plugs. Then re-wrap everything. I like silicone fusion tape.

 

i noticed the electrical tape was cracking and falling off in pieces, they were hardened, thanks ill look into that as well!

as for the mods sgt blue, what do you think? im going for strict reliability

so far i have

Power fc and commander

Huge smic

tial 50mm BV

greddy elbow

ast deleted

koyo rad

bonez DP

bonez MP

pettit CB

cooling mist (water )

silicone hose kit (hose techniques)

mishimoto radiator hoses

Im gonna buy

mazdatrix flywheel and counter

denso fuel pump

my efini turbos are being rebuilt so theyll be like new

1300 secondaries, clean or get new primaries


im unplugging air pump, i want to remove AC cause it doesnt work anyways, and since i have the power fc, do i need a boost controller?

 

*Since you have a PFC and no emissions testing in SD, you can remove all emissions...EGR, split-air and airpump. You can also delete the double-throttle and Accelerated Warm-up System (AWS) and throttle-body coolant line. You'll need a block-off plate set (I recommend Banzai's) and if you remove the airpump I recommend an idler pulley to keep full contact on the waterpump...NOT an overdrive pulley set. Pineapple Racing offers one and there are others. Search for more info on that and the other stuff. You can also remove the emissions related solenoids (simplifying the rat's nest by 50%) and related plugs from the engine harness while you're re-wrapping it. You've got alot to busy yourself with if you do it right. These are not mine but might help......






*If you're installing a mid-pipe, you MUST port the wastegate or risk boost creep. And no...a boost controller won't help with that.
*IMHO, I would get a dedicated boost controller for boost spike rather than rely on the PFC. But there are other opinions on that.

 

OMG i just got my mind raped with that info

im not doing a mid pipe, high flow cat instead, but if you say boost controller is better, ill look into that as well

 

Are you in South Dakota or in San Diego?
If you're in California, forget what I said about removing emissions.

 

san diego lol

i was wondering why you said no emissions

its registered for MI though, so i still dont need emissions

 

up, im gonna keep asking for help till i get my engine back, which is probably a month