New radiator and thermostat, higher operating temp now. wtf??
01-04-12, 01:55 AM
#26
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That probably is coolant seal failure due to overheating.
Your thermostat reads COOLANT temperature NOT engine temperature. If you have air in the system your coolant temps will read much lower then what then engine temperature actually is.
It is very important to burp the cooling system every time you do a flush or replace parts no matter what engine you do it too.
Your thermostat reads COOLANT temperature NOT engine temperature. If you have air in the system your coolant temps will read much lower then what then engine temperature actually is.
It is very important to burp the cooling system every time you do a flush or replace parts no matter what engine you do it too.
01-04-12, 04:52 AM
#27
When you finally get to refill your system with coolant: do this:
- Make sure you have new OEM caps
- Make sure if you have a stock AST that it's in good solid shape (translucent dark green is very bad)
- Buy one of those yellow funnel kits that allow you to top off the coolant while the engine runs. Otherwise it's a slow and punishing sequence of squeezing hoses, venting air, buzzer turning on, and topping off coolant.
- Just use 50/50 coolant / water ratio with only distilled for your water. No spring or tap water. Exact ratio doesn't matter.
- Make sure you have new OEM caps
- Make sure if you have a stock AST that it's in good solid shape (translucent dark green is very bad)
- Buy one of those yellow funnel kits that allow you to top off the coolant while the engine runs. Otherwise it's a slow and punishing sequence of squeezing hoses, venting air, buzzer turning on, and topping off coolant.
- Just use 50/50 coolant / water ratio with only distilled for your water. No spring or tap water. Exact ratio doesn't matter.
01-15-12, 01:56 AM
#28
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I am working on getting the engine out. took off all pressure plate bolts in t mission through inspection hole, not that hard of a job, had a buddy turn the motor in the front, so he would push opposite of me to help loosen the bolts =]p. Im gonna take it to a shop to get fixed for 800$ in labor, parts about 1700$ i say, with OEM APEX seals, then like atkins gasket set. Im gonna do a lot of the basic reliability mods , and just keep it safe. getting it tuned ASAP when car turns on again, someday lol
01-15-12, 01:59 AM
#29
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When you finally get to refill your system with coolant: do this:
- Make sure you have new OEM caps
- Make sure if you have a stock AST that it's in good solid shape (translucent dark green is very bad)
- Buy one of those yellow funnel kits that allow you to top off the coolant while the engine runs. Otherwise it's a slow and punishing sequence of squeezing hoses, venting air, buzzer turning on, and topping off coolant.
- Just use 50/50 coolant / water ratio with only distilled for your water. No spring or tap water. Exact ratio doesn't matter.
- Make sure you have new OEM caps
- Make sure if you have a stock AST that it's in good solid shape (translucent dark green is very bad)
- Buy one of those yellow funnel kits that allow you to top off the coolant while the engine runs. Otherwise it's a slow and punishing sequence of squeezing hoses, venting air, buzzer turning on, and topping off coolant.
- Just use 50/50 coolant / water ratio with only distilled for your water. No spring or tap water. Exact ratio doesn't matter.
I am going to buy or find the coolant funnel thing, it was a pain squeezing the rad hose over and over, really works out the foreman if you do it fast
01-31-12, 02:11 AM
#30
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any tips on the rebuild?
things i should do that would help the car out, like block EGR valve, get efini y pipe, do silicone hose job. any other things i should delete or mod with its all apart?
things i should do that would help the car out, like block EGR valve, get efini y pipe, do silicone hose job. any other things i should delete or mod with its all apart?
01-31-12, 02:37 PM
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i said earlier in the thread i need to rebuild the engine, it overheated, coolant seals gone...
soo any tips on what i can do while i have access to everything would be great!
soo any tips on what i can do while i have access to everything would be great!
02-20-12, 12:20 AM
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dropped off the engine to get rebuilt and street ported, got a cooling mist kit, silicone hose kit, silicone radiator hoses, and downpipe.
ill be doing the fan switch mod when i get everything back in, im not joking about cooling now lol
any tips for anything else to be done while my car is apart?
ill be doing the fan switch mod when i get everything back in, im not joking about cooling now lol
any tips for anything else to be done while my car is apart?
02-20-12, 04:26 AM
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Thoroughly clean and repaint the engine bay. Best time to do it is when the engine is out... (Makes sense, right?) - It would be best to paint it in a warm, ventilated garage.
02-24-12, 05:26 AM
#41
Depending on your budget..........
*New Plug wires and coil harness
*Send the injectors in for cleaning and flow-testing.
*Make sure the rebuild includes NEW hi-pressure fuel hose
*Replace fuel pulsation damper or eliminate it (search for more info)
*Replace OMP lines with stainless and new copper crush washers (disregard if your deleting OMP)
*New pilot bearing
*New throw-out bearing
*New coolant hoses...especially turbo coolant lines
*New clutch fork (especially if pressure plate is upgraded)
*Replace any rubber vacuum lines with siicone. Search for a member DaleClark and get a set of viton check valves to replace OEM
Depending on your Coolingmist kit, you could also search under my name in the Auxillary Injection section for component location ideas
*New Plug wires and coil harness
*Send the injectors in for cleaning and flow-testing.
*Make sure the rebuild includes NEW hi-pressure fuel hose
*Replace fuel pulsation damper or eliminate it (search for more info)
*Replace OMP lines with stainless and new copper crush washers (disregard if your deleting OMP)
*New pilot bearing
*New throw-out bearing
*New coolant hoses...especially turbo coolant lines
*New clutch fork (especially if pressure plate is upgraded)
*Replace any rubber vacuum lines with siicone. Search for a member DaleClark and get a set of viton check valves to replace OEM
Depending on your Coolingmist kit, you could also search under my name in the Auxillary Injection section for component location ideas
02-28-12, 11:35 AM
#45
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as for the mods sgt blue, what do you think? im going for strict reliability
so far i have
Power fc and commander
Huge smic
tial 50mm BV
greddy elbow
ast deleted
koyo rad
bonez DP
bonez MP
pettit CB
cooling mist (water )
silicone hose kit (hose techniques)
mishimoto radiator hoses
Im gonna buy
mazdatrix flywheel and counter
denso fuel pump
my efini turbos are being rebuilt so theyll be like new
1300 secondaries, clean or get new primaries
im unplugging air pump, i want to remove AC cause it doesnt work anyways, and since i have the power fc, do i need a boost controller?
02-28-12, 03:04 PM
#46
*Since you have a PFC and no emissions testing in SD, you can remove all emissions...EGR, split-air and airpump. You can also delete the double-throttle and Accelerated Warm-up System (AWS) and throttle-body coolant line. You'll need a block-off plate set (I recommend Banzai's) and if you remove the airpump I recommend an idler pulley to keep full contact on the waterpump...NOT an overdrive pulley set. Pineapple Racing offers one and there are others. Search for more info on that and the other stuff. You can also remove the emissions related solenoids (simplifying the rat's nest by 50%) and related plugs from the engine harness while you're re-wrapping it. You've got alot to busy yourself with if you do it right. These are not mine but might help......
*If you're installing a mid-pipe, you MUST port the wastegate or risk boost creep. And no...a boost controller won't help with that.
*IMHO, I would get a dedicated boost controller for boost spike rather than rely on the PFC. But there are other opinions on that.
*If you're installing a mid-pipe, you MUST port the wastegate or risk boost creep. And no...a boost controller won't help with that.
*IMHO, I would get a dedicated boost controller for boost spike rather than rely on the PFC. But there are other opinions on that.
02-29-12, 12:15 PM
#47
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OMG i just got my mind raped with that info
im not doing a mid pipe, high flow cat instead, but if you say boost controller is better, ill look into that as well
im not doing a mid pipe, high flow cat instead, but if you say boost controller is better, ill look into that as well