New owner with a oil question
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Joined: Feb 2012
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From: Michigan
Hi everyone I'm new here and have a quick question for you all. Please forgive me for not posting in a introduction topic yet but this is a question I need answered ASAP. I just bought a 89 fc3c and it's a beauty! Mint all stock 100% and runs better then my new cobalt lol. I'm not new to rotary as my last car was a 05 rx8. The previous owner always has used moble 1 synthetic in the car and Ive always thought that was bad for a rotary motor. Today is my first day with this new car and I'm curious, should I get a change done and have conventional oil put in or should I keep rolling on the stuff it's always had? I just don't want to change her out and get leaks and such as currently she's in tip top shape. Just curious as to what all you pros out there would do in my situation. Please let me know and as soon as I get the car and pics I will post up a nice introduction topic and meet all the great people here. Thank you very much!
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
its a personal preference really.(this thread can start another "war"..lol!)
..apples oranges,..Synthetic or Dinosaur Squeezin's!
Myself I go for Regular oil as I think paying top dollar for Synthetic and then throwing it out after 4K is kind of silly.
But,if the previous owner was running it and would like to continue with the overall Benefits that the Synthetic gives to the engine,then Go for it!
..apples oranges,..Synthetic or Dinosaur Squeezin's!
Myself I go for Regular oil as I think paying top dollar for Synthetic and then throwing it out after 4K is kind of silly.
But,if the previous owner was running it and would like to continue with the overall Benefits that the Synthetic gives to the engine,then Go for it!
From what I've read, this is the rule of thumb:
w/ OMP: Mineral Oil
w/o OMP: Full Synthetic ie. Royal Purp.
It's all up to you though. Check these articles out;
Racing Beat:
http://www.racingbeat.com/mazda/perf...etic-oils.html
Banzai Racing:
http://www.banzai-racing.com/RX-7_recommendations.htm
Atkins Rotary:
http://www.atkinsrotary.com/index.php?pag=8#16
w/ OMP: Mineral Oil
w/o OMP: Full Synthetic ie. Royal Purp.
It's all up to you though. Check these articles out;
Racing Beat:
http://www.racingbeat.com/mazda/perf...etic-oils.html
Banzai Racing:
http://www.banzai-racing.com/RX-7_recommendations.htm
Atkins Rotary:
What sort of oil should I use synthetic or petroleum based? What weight, and how long does it take the engine to break in?
You should not use any synthetics while breaking in the engine for the first 6,000 miles and keep the engine under 4,000 RPM for 1,000 miles. After that we recommend Ams-Oil, as this is the one we have done the most testing with and have been very happy with the results. A 20W-50 should be used in the summer and a 5W-30 or 10W-30 should be used in the winter.
You should not use any synthetics while breaking in the engine for the first 6,000 miles and keep the engine under 4,000 RPM for 1,000 miles. After that we recommend Ams-Oil, as this is the one we have done the most testing with and have been very happy with the results. A 20W-50 should be used in the summer and a 5W-30 or 10W-30 should be used in the winter.
Had I bought the car, I would keep using the Mobil 1 in the engine until it is time for a change, and then switch to Castrol GTX just to save some money. If there is Mobil 1 in the transmission then I would change it out immediately because it is known to eat synchros. The FC transmission is pretty notchy, so I like to use Red Line synthetic oil to smooth it out, although Amsoil, Idemitsu, and Royal Purple are also popular.
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Exxon Mobil refuses to tell the public what is currently in their Mobil 1 engine oil, but it appears that they are mostly using Group III (glorified mineral oil) with a little bit of Group IV mixed in. Previously they used a mix of Group IV and V, but apparently they decided to "go cheap" in order to compete with the other oil companies that were advertising their Group III oil as "synthetic".
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