alright I just recently bought a 86 mazda rx7 with the 13B andmy coolant seal is bad in it, it went bad 3 days of me having the car I didn't know the car was ran without a thermostat and I put a stant in there but that was before i knew they didn't work right and now my car has coolant steam comming from the exhaust should I just invest in a new motor or can anyone give me the desegnated seal and area to replace the bad seal even if its a bad rotor seal I would still like to know if at all possible I planned on rebuilding this motor anyway but I dont want to buy the rebuild kit just yet I just want to be able to drive it(daily driver) back and forth to work and a little play any suggestions will be greatly appreciated thank you in advance

can anyone tell me where the coolant seal is located at? and can i find the coolant seal by itself? mine just crapped out on me and the person before me was running it without a thermostat so it has overheating problems any help will be appreciated

 

I'm not a 2ndgen guru but I can already tell you you're not going to like the news they have when they check in on this thread.

Mario III

 

overheating is caused by a number of things in seccond gens
usually people remove the under tray for whatever reason, and allows air to divert under the radiator without flowing through it. could also be a blocked radiator, air in the system from the leak, many different things.

water in your exhaust is bad. this is a full rebuild problem. the seal cannot be replaced externally. the motor must be fully removed and disassembled as the water seal is located between plates.

you can get away with driving on a dead water seal for some time, do not alow the car to sit for long periods without starting it as water can settle in the bottom of the housings. check the water level very regularly.

but at the end of the day, rebuild time

 

I had the same issue when I installed a used 12a into my car. Here's how I "fixed" it https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-archive-71/engine-coolant-seal-repair-maybe-750774/ for $4.00

I've got over 20,000 miles on that motor and haven't had any issues with the cheap repair.

If you can afford to pull the motor and rebuild it, then you probably should. But if you can't afford it (either time, or money) and need it on the road now, then my method might be worth considering.

Good luck







.

 

whats the name of the product the link isn't no good for it in your thread sorry im just trying to get this fixed for when i come home on saturday

 

Alumaseal. Make sure you get exactly that, not something similar...

 

The seal you are referring to is a "coolant o-ring". They are located between the housings and the irons. Consequently, replacing one requires a full engine rebuild. In the 2nd gen FAQ, you will find links to the Factory Service Manual which covers engine disassembly and shows these seals.

 

will this be able to hold boost or should i wait on the turbo?

 

dont even think about it. its possible to tear the engine down and replace just the coolant seals, something like 150 or so to do this. but thats only hoping everything on the inside is still good. and i can garrantee everyone that posts after me is going to go on and on about how you should really blow the ~1200 bucks and replace all the seals. but whatever.

 

yeah I'm going to replace my coolant seals once i get money i dont want to buy a new motor just yet or buy the rebuild kit yet its just out of my price range for tyhe time being