my 1991 rx7 with a 13 b non turo rotary engine will start and warm up fine but i will go drive it and everytime i stop when it is warm the car will not idle it will just simply die i changed the sparkplugs but dont know what could be wrong i drove the car 300 miles one day parked it for 15 min and came back and it would not run when i put the sparkplugs in it started right up but it is not ideling right sometimes when idleing it will shake the whole car.

 

Hot start problems and idle adjustment issues / vacuum leak. For idle adjustment information, check the factory service manual (FSM), which is free to download (FAQ or elsewhere).

Hot start problems are covered in many threads, and generally have to do with leaky fuel injectors. Injector servicing can help, if not eliminate the problem.

 

also whenever i turn anything electrical on in the car my rpms go down also when i have my clutch pushed down my rpms go down and thats when it dies.

 

They don't react well to overheating. If it shut itself down that is a bad thing, if you caught it you may be in luck still. The most common failures are side seal and apex seal in overheats.

Be sure the oil and coolant levels are correct first.

When you spin the motor over does it rotate freely meaning no compression. If so you will need to remove the spark plugs and inject 10cc's of ATF, (transmission fluid) into each plug port (good time to clean the plugs). Replace the spark plugs and then crank the engine. A noticeable increase in compression will result if the APEX seals have any chance of expanding. Stay on the starter if it sounds like the compression is returning, if not stop. remove the plugs again and inject 5cc's more of ATF in each plug port then replace the plugs and try again. The light weight ATF forms a temporary compression seal on the APEx seals and conditions them forcing them to swell. The ATF will burn readily (it will pass thick white smoke) once (if) it fires up so warn the neighbors.

If it does try to fire up stay on the stater until it can run on it's own, get the RPM's up to 3500 and try to fluctuate the engine speed in this area until the exhaust begins to clear up. Be sure it comes up to operating temperature before shutting it down. I would advise driving it around before shutting it down so the engine has a chance to get a load put on it.

Chances are if it it will not create compression and fire up after cooling off then you did permanent damage to the APEx seals and and overhaul is the only way out. Same applies if it passes blue smoke, blue smoke being oil means side seal failure.

Hope it helps.

 

dont quote me on it, but it sounds like the BAC to me which keeps idle steady as load changes when you turn on ac or something similar.

http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/factory..._non_turbo.pdf

hope that helps

 

yea sounds like a bad IAC

 

check for vaccum leaks also