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Hi I have an 1985 Rc7 Gsl Se All Stock except air filter. I’m trying to replace my lower intake manifold gasket but don’t know what all needs to be done to remove lower intake. I have already removed upper and Dynamic Chamber. I have no idea how many bolts actually hold the lower intake to the engine. How do I go about removing the oil lines from injectors? Does any of this need to be done from below? Any help is greatly appreciated Upper Intake Off. How do I remove those two oil lines from injectors? Or do I remove whole injectors? Picture one of suspected LIM mounting bolt. Picture one of suspected LIM mounting bolt. How do I get to it?? This seems to be in the way of sed suspected bolt This seems to be in the way as well. Do I have to remove?
I haven't worked on a GSLSE, but it's similar to the rest of the 13B's so I'll take a jab at getting you started.
I think you've taken pictures of the exhaust manifold for some of the bolts (this is the exhaust manifold: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...cda7c0798.jpeg). Don't take the exhaust manifold off, as it's not necessary.
Take the whole oil injector out, you cannot separate the oil line from the banjo fitting. The oil injector will separate from the oil line banjo fitting once it's removed. The oil injector will have crush washers, keep track of them or replace them.
Once the oil injectors are out, you'll need to remove (and delete if you want), the big ACV?/EGR? device that has the muffler on the intake pipe. (Lower portion of this picture: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e02b44a2c.jpeg) It should have 3 10mm bolts I believe.
This will give you more room to find the rest of the intake manifold bolts (All 12mm I believe). There are two on the rear iron, two on the front iron, one on each rotor housing (these are nuts) and then one more on the center iron (This may or may not be true for the GSLSE, I'm thinking T2 and FD but it's likely there as well.)
You will need a new intake manifold gasket set.
Good luck.
Last edited by Copeland; Jul 29, 2019 at 08:46 AM.
1. there are a total of six (6) bolts that hold the manifold on the engine. four of them will be fairly obvious (at the front and rear side housings) and the other two are hidden, but not overly complicated. they attach to the rotor housings and you should be able to get to them by putting the socket and extension directly in the little pocket/hole that is created by the auxiliary port actuators. all 6 bolts are 12 mm. if you can get your hand/finger in there and feel along the lower edge of the manifold you feel them right around where you can imagine a line around the center of the rotor housing. a mirror should work, too. at the end of the day, you really shouldn't need to remove the port actuators or mess with the exhaust manifold at all.
2. the easiest way to deal with the oil injectors is trace the lines to the MOP and remove them from there. there ail a two of four lines, but you should only need the two that attach to the manifold.
_____________ EDIT
just want to correct something and add something ...
Correction: it's actually 4 bolts and 2 nuts, but as i said, they are all 12 mm.
Addition: instead of imagining the line around the center of the rotor housing, the exhaust manifold nuts are centered, so if you locate them, then the nuts for the intake should be directly above them.
Last edited by diabolical1; Aug 2, 2019 at 08:41 AM.
You all are great i swear! You mutherfers rock! I got it all off an put back together. Cars running a lot better than before. Still hear slight hissing (vacuum leak) think its the spider i rigged up for oil injector vacuum. The whole process is fairly easy once you know what you are looking for. Hardest is two nuts on housings. Im actually thinking about a youtube channel for all my car shenanigans. Videos Rx7 repair is so rare.
You all are great i swear! You mutherfers rock! I got it all off an put back together. Cars running a lot better than before. Still hear slight hissing (vacuum leak) think its the spider i rigged up for oil injector vacuum. The whole process is fairly easy once you know what you are looking for. Hardest is two nuts on housings. Im actually thinking about a youtube channel for all my car shenanigans. Videos Rx7 repair is so rare.
Spray some carb cleaner around the engine when its idling (without starting a fire). If the idle changes then you know you have a vacuum leak.
Did the carb cleaner test an confirmed. Leak around pulsation damper/ oil injector vacuum lines area. I broke the wires away from this sensor in the dynamic chamber an cant identify it. Does anyone have any idea what this is an if it’s something i can buy or do i have to have someone refurbish. It goes in the side of the dynamic chamber an has a two wire black harness that connects to one of the solenoids on driver side under BAC.
It definitely had two wires to it. I tried to solder that orange one on lol. Heres a few pics This is it inside the Dynamic Chamber. This is the connector it was plugged into. I have other half of connector in my pocket.
Another question . How do i get the lower intake manifold gasket to seal properly? Or should i say any tips. Its leaking again. Thank heavens i know how to take it all off relatively easy and i have spare gaskets. Just wondering if I should use gasket maker. Permatex or whatever its called. Thats the vacuum leak im still hearing. Sprayed the lower manifold with carb cleaner an car died
Another question . How do i get the lower intake manifold gasket to seal properly? Or should i say any tips. Its leaking again. Thank heavens i know how to take it all off relatively easy and i have spare gaskets. Just wondering if I should use gasket maker. Permatex or whatever its called. Thats the vacuum leak im still hearing. Sprayed the lower manifold with carb cleaner an car died
In my first FC, there was a paper gasket there and it was all warped and was causing a huge vacuum leak. The replacement i got from kragen was a 3-layer metal gasket. If ts leaking i'd replace the gasket, and make sure the mating surfaces are straight and clean.
In my first FC, there was a paper gasket there and it was all warped and was causing a huge vacuum leak. The replacement i got from kragen was a 3-layer metal gasket. If ts leaking i'd replace the gasket, and make sure the mating surfaces are straight and clean.
Will do. Going to change the gasket again this weekend. Going to use some sort if sealant as well just to be sure.
Worth a mention my LiM inner surface has scars from being pryed at. Could i just lay some sealant over the scars or do i need a new LIM?
if the marks/scars you mentioned extend over into the runner area, then you're probably going to have to machine it. if not, then you should be okay.
you have to make sure the manifold is sitting square against the engine before you start tightening the bolts or you can cause yourself tremendous problems. worst case scenario is the manifold cracks and you're unaware of it.
