snowbreaker

iTrader: (1)

ive been looking and lookin around trying to find a writeup on making a distributor swap from the standard duel point system that i have to the electron magnetic distributor,
so i need help on what parts i need to make the electric magnetic distributor to work and how to make the switch. pictures would be helpful
cause i sure want to get rid of my duel point system im running right now
thanks

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

u'll need the front cover to go with that single dizzy. just take note of the thrust bearing stack behind the front e-shaft pulley.

13x

Here you go

from points dizzy to electronic

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Dual points not dual dizzy. OP, don't let this confuse you, your front cover doesn't need to be changed out.

Kentetsu

Hi guys. Kyle (Snowbreaker) is a local 16 y/o and Rotor-motor and I are assisting him with his driveability issues. I think we are in agreement that a large part of his problem is related to the points system.

RM has a complete dizzy for him already. All we were lacking was a comprehensive list of what all needed to be changed out (thanks 13x). I haven't checked out the link you provided yet, but will when I get a chance.



.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I think I can add a little to this. I've only upgraded old schools like REPUs and stuff, but the SA should be similar. You've got a battery right there making adding a relay easy, if you choose to do so.

The only point I'd like to point out (oh sorry, bad pun) is the wiring to the ballast resistors. It feeds the point 6 volts during normal running (the ON position), but during cranking they are bypassed so the points get full 12V. There are two feed wires that need to be connected together so the new electronics ie J-109 ignitors and Diamond coils receive full 12V in the ON and START positions. The colors on a REPU are yellow with black stripe and black with yellow stripe. Look for these with a test light or volt meter. I'd highly recommend adding a relay since the ignitin switch wiring is ancient at this point, and you've got a battery right there (it's not way back there under the bed, lol).

Was that all? Oh make sure you also get the dizzy wiring harness from an FB. It's got the two T shaped connectors for the ignitors and the bullet connector for the condenser. I keep the condenser in my DLIDFIS upgrades for radio supression. This kid being 16 will need to have some sort of audio I'm sure. Even for what they're listening to now a days, itunes? It could keep amp inputs cleaner, but there's also an alternator to consider, being externally regulated and another source of noise. Swapping to an internal reg alt should be your next upgrade after the ignition is sorted. Heck since you're upgrading, maybe swap to an S5 alt?

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

thanx tim, i missread that the first time.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Ok, looks like hes in good hands Mark.

No problem, I just didn't want him running out and trying to yank that front cover first thang.

snowbreaker

iTrader: (1)

i have this aftermarket mistubishi alternator on. came with the car so i have no information on it at all

ive also been discussing a whole other issue with my oil cooler. is it possible to use the ac condensor that mounts in front of the radiator as a substitute for the oilcooler cause the condensor is large and mounted a little nicer then my bootlegged oilcooler i got going on which is held up by wire and i got oil leaks with that

at my grand parents shop im replacing all the lines and stuff cause that got tons of differnt hose lines and stuff

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

not possible.

Kentetsu

The alternator is supposed to be a Mitsubishi. They make more than just cars and airplanes, so you'll find their parts on all kinds of cars.

Fix the oil cooler you've got. Most likely, it is leaking at the bungs on the cooler which is very common. Remove the cooler, clean it up very well, then bring it over and I'll have a friend that has a shop nearby weld it up for you.

rotor-motor

iTrader: (7)

13x great write up,
snowbreaker seems that your coils for the point system wont hold up with the electronic ignition. i have a few coils laying around shoot me a text

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I didn't make it clear but yes you need the correct coils for electronic ignition. Diamond coils are great.

Sin City Superhero

Sorry to sound like an idiot, but what are the benefits of switching out the dual points?

13x

for one maintance nothing to re gap or adjust, two no point float at high rpm.

While I ran the dual dizzy for quiet some time I am running the electronic now with zero issues and it can be done without hacking the harness so can always go back if you'd like

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

the benefits? electronic ignition is an all around better system than the points setup. it's an upgrade that bout everyone does.

snowbreaker

iTrader: (1)

on a side note the reason why im upgrading is because i blew my old engine now onto a new engine, pulled the old one and painted the compartment(pictures on the sidenote just cause it looks good , painting the whole car glossy white this upcoming winter) and putting the new engine in tomorrow just going to line dizzy up with tdc and dont worry about hooking it all up till after...my understanding is when i do upgrade to electronic, do i get rid of the balista resistor pack thingy? but i think i can manage everything else by going off the guide 13x supplyed and thanks for that one
-kyle

Kentetsu

Looking good Kyle! I like the engine bay. How did you apply the paint?