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Naturally Aspirated FD

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Old Oct 6, 2008 | 06:37 PM
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Naturally Aspirated FD

Okay, so I'm not probably going to do this but is this possible? Taking out the Twin turbo in the 13b-rew and rewire some stuff and hoses and take out the intercooler...is it possible? If so, how much do you think it is to do this? ( at a shop ) It's just that my friend wants to buy an FD and he will only use it as a daily driven car, but he wants to have a cool looking car ( and what could be cooler than RX-7s ) so taking out the turbo will help fuel economy and engine life as well.
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Old Oct 7, 2008 | 09:38 PM
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LS1 FD would be N/A
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Old Oct 8, 2008 | 07:50 PM
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It's been discussed several times.

Yes, it will make the car more reliable, but you'd have to hodge-podge together 2nd gen parts for the exhaust and intake. You might not be able to use the stock ECU with that much stuff missing (or maybe you can?). You'd spend a lot of money on labor to pay a shop to put in parts that aren't even worth much. You would also kill the resale value.

For all that effort I'd spend a few grand putting some reliability mods into the car, maintenance, and install a powerfc and get it tuned well. This will boost the fuel economy a bit without bastardizing it.

If you want NA rotary for daily driving, what's wrong with an RX-8? You can get them for a decent price now, and the engine is warrantied to 100k. You'll get all the fuel economy that an NA converted FD would get (not much), and you won't have to go out of your way to get it serviced and maintained.

Dave
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 12:48 AM
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I don't think he cares about the resale value, but do you think me and my friend can do this mod on our own? Get some custom piping from the shop and just do the labour ourselves? And what do you mean by hodge-podge 2nd gen parts? What parts of the exhaust and what parts of the intake do I need? Oh and can u give me some kind of idea how much $$ I will be expected to be charged if this is done at a shop? I'd say around $1k right?

Last edited by nickk47; Oct 9, 2008 at 12:50 AM.
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 01:12 AM
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It's gonna cost a lot more than 1k....Shop rates are usually around $100/hr and this sounds like a lot of custom work..
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 01:27 AM
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leave it how it is they dont get bad MPG
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 01:59 AM
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Ehh...i wouldn't NA an FD...not unless I was going to build a Peripheral Port 3Rotor...
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 04:15 AM
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Even if you succeed in converting a REW to NA, the ports are so huge that the bottom end will absolutely suck. Unlike a 6 port 2nd gen NA motor, you will have no way of controlling the port size at low RPMs, and air velocity will suffer greatly. This is fine for a race car that's going to be above 5k RPM at all times, but it's not something you want in a daily driver. It'll be like a Renesis motor with even less bottom end.
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 04:39 AM
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If you wanna go the cheapass way about it...

-You can stick on a RacingBeat header for an FC and cut/weld to make it fit and mate up to the main cat.

-Cap the turbo oil and coolant feed and return locations.

-Stick a $10 autozone cone filter on the end of your stock TB elbow.

Viola! 115hp FD!

Last edited by Stanello; Oct 9, 2008 at 04:47 AM.
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Stanello
If you wanna go the cheapass way about it...

-You can stick on a RacingBeat header for an FC and cut/weld to make it fit and mate up to the main cat.

-Cap the turbo oil and coolant feed and return locations.

-Stick a $10 autozone cone filter on the end of your stock TB elbow.

Viola! 115hp FD!
Don't forget the fact that it will have trouble running at all with 550/850cc injectors, a rich fuel map, and a fuel pump that's flows too well for a NA setup. Less HP & less MPG. Totally worth it.
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 07:34 PM
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All right, All right. you guys convinced me not to make it NA!!
I have a list of mods for strictly reliability as a priority, looks as 2nd priority and was wondering if you guys have any other mods that have no downsides to it.
Oh and could you tell me if I will need a boost controller to keep this car at 10psi with these mods?

-Disable Exhaust Recirculation Valve
-Disable Accelerated Warm-Up System
-Replace ground wires between the engine and body with heavy duty cables
-Replace Vacuum hoses with quality Silicone Hoses
-Install Defi Boost and Temp gauge
-Replace stock battery with Optima RedTop one and relocate it wiith a mount
-Cheap Intake Mod with Stock airbox fitting filter
-Catback, Downpipe
-GReddy Radiator Cap, Radiator Breather Tank, Oil Catch Tank, Pulley Kit, Intercooler Hard Piping
-Mishimoto Oil Cooler, 16" Electric Radiator Fan, Aluminum Radiator, and proper Raidator Ducting
-Tanabe Lowering Springs, Front & Rear Anti Sway Bar
-SS Oil Metering Lines, SS Brake Lines, SS Clutch Lines
-Oil Pan Brace
-Turbo Block-Off Plates ( For Turbo Simplification Mod)

Lol thats a big list!!
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryRocket88
Don't forget the fact that it will have trouble running at all with 550/850cc injectors, a rich fuel map, and a fuel pump that's flows too well for a NA setup. Less HP & less MPG. Totally worth it.
It will run well enough to be 100% driveable.
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Old Oct 9, 2008 | 09:12 PM
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I was gonna mention dropping in a stock carbureted 12A............with a bit of fabricating of course
All show and no go but atleast you would have decent gas mileage!!
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